VaguelyAmused - R33 GTS-4 Project - Skyline Owners Forum

Welcome to the SkylineOwners.Com website. We aim to provide you with the largest knowledgebase anywhere on the internet for the Nissan Skyline.


Go Back   Skyline Owners Forum > Skyline Torque > N/A Forum


N/A Forum Naturally aspirated technical forum

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
Old 05-05-2010, 09:10 PM   #1
Seasoned Member
 
Drives: Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-4
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Charminster, Bournemouth
Posts: 33
Club ID#: 14939

Country Flag

Trade Feedback: (0)


View My Pictures
VaguelyAmused - R33 GTS-4 Project

Right all,

I guess it is time I started up a project thread. I've done a few bits and pieces all ready but there is a lot still to do so I'll start documenting it here. I have an MOT due the end of this month so once she comes through with a clean bill of health the work begins.

First of all, here she is:



She's a 1995 R33 GTS-4 Coupe in KH3 Kuro Black. I think the series is 1.5? The rear spoiler and engine are series 2 but the front bumper, headlights and bonnet are series 1. Done about 115Kms not converted.

I've had the car about 18 months now after initially having it looked over by a Nissan service mechanic. For the most it is great, not let me down yet apart from the 15 year old battery which has since been replaced.

The main big cause of woe has been the little bit of rust on the rear wheel arches pointed out by the mechanic when inspected as nothing to worry about and common on these models. Was advised to get it sorted before it got worse.

Dutifully I set about sorting the rust which turned out to be more than just a little bit! I'm hunting for the pictures but the near side rear turned out to be rotten - the more I tried to dig away the rust the bigger the hole became

To cut a long story short which will be explained in detail once I find the pictures of the repair, it is now sorted, pending MOT!

Only other mods fitted to date are Blitz panel air filter, Front+Rear OEM strut braces, a Fields-ETS Linear TSC, Leather/Alcantara interior and Richbrook steering wheel. Plus the obligatory after market alloys.

Speaking of the interior, its really quite nice :

Front interior removed


Rear interior removed


Front leather in


Rear leather in


There is a full set of original Skyline mats in there now as well. Oh, and the original flare is still present

And here are some of the bits I'll be fitting over the coming weeks:

Driftworks R33 GTR front tension rods. I did a pre MOT check and both the bushes on mine have gone so time for an upgrade. These will need doing before the MOT.


Coby D12 Headers. Really looking forward to fitting these!


I'm not quite sure which direction to take regarding the final fit to the cat. I'm hoping to paint them in this:

http://www.vhtpaint.com/flameproof.html

Ideally I want to paint them complete and then just do a final fit before curing them. Welding using the old downpipe means the car would have to be off the road a fair bit longer and I use her as a daily driver so a bit tricky. I'm toying with the idea of a flexi coupling - clamp at one end and a flange welded on the other to mate with the cat. Something like this, but with a flange at one end:

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/pr...edium=Shopping

I'm not sure if the coupling to the cat forms part of the manifold bracing though and I don't know if putting a flexible coupling there might result in broken exhaust studs?

Exhaust to complement the Coby's


Initially wasn't going to fit this as thought it was too wide a bore at 3". ID is actually more like 72mm but the bends are not mandrel bent and pinch to around 2.5" which would seem reasonable for an N/A?

It'll either be fitted before or after the MOT, depending what state the current exhaust is in.

And that's about it so far, oh, I've got some Silkolene Silktran Syn 5 oil which I'll be using to replace gearbox+f/r diffs oil so will write that up too - already attempted once ending in fail. The prop shaft is somewhat in the way of the gearbox drain plug, I'm glad someone on here suggested check that first before draining all the oil from the gearbox! I'll try and find the pictures of the repair job I did on the rear arch and get a little bit written about it. Any bits I do myself I'll include pictures and whatnot on here.

I've been a lurker on here for quite some time soaking in the info and experience so hopefully through my mishaps and mistakes I'll be able to give something back

Cheers
Chris
VaguelyAmused is offline   Reply With Quote Share on facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 05-05-2010, 10:22 PM   #2
Seasoned Member
 
shawny's Avatar
 
Drives: R33 Project 300s / vauxhall zafira / orange transit
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Kent
Posts: 511
Club ID#: 5483

Country Flag

Trade Feedback: (6)


View My Pictures
Nice 33 , its nice to see more n/a project's being started keep up the good work
__________________
Project 300S built not bought
shawny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2010, 10:24 PM   #3
Seasoned Member
 
Drives: skyline gtst m-type spec ii
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: haverfordwest
Posts: 124
Club ID#: 23949


Trade Feedback: (0)


View My Pictures
sounds like yougot a busy couple of months ahead of you, looks like youll have a mint gts by the time you finished, (she looks pretty good as she is), really like your interior, looks mega - cant wait to hear how you get on - have fun buddy !
fitz952 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Old 09-05-2010, 11:47 AM   #4
Assassino
 
Snakypaintbrush's Avatar
 
Drives: R33 gts-t spec 1.5 & 2.0 Bora and a minted merc CLK 320
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wolverhampton
Posts: 5,923
Club ID#: 15076

Country Flag

Trade Feedback: (13)


View My Pictures
nice car mate loving the leather seats good luck
__________________
xbox 360 Gamertag SnakyPaintbrush
Snakypaintbrush is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2010, 08:34 PM   #5
Seasoned Member
 
Drives: Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-4
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Charminster, Bournemouth
Posts: 33
Club ID#: 14939

Country Flag

Trade Feedback: (0)


View My Pictures
Cheers for the comments guys! The interior was off this forum a while back - really happy with it.

I eventually found the pictures of my attempt at arch repair (note to self, stop being lazy and scattering stuff around in "NewFolder").

I'm not too sure whether to be happy/proud of what I've done or a little bit embarrassed - I guess I'll leave it up to the replies to the pictures before I make that decision ;)

I didn't take that many pictures at the time as didn't think I'd be documenting it so I'll fill in the blanks.

First off, the extent of the rust/rot on the nearside rear after I poked away at it to get the really crumbly stuff off and after a bit of a sand back:


And another one from the inside (hello word! ):


The next step needs a brief explanation. I am a software engineer (nerd) by trade and at the time a poorly paid nerd, my ability with a welder is none existent and I needed to sort this one out pretty quickly and cheaply so that it was at least water tight. As such, my tools of choice were limited to what Halfords could provide - doomed from the start you might say!

The eagle eyed of you will have spotted the corner of a pink square at the bottom of the inside view of the rust problem. This gives a hint as to my approach and the pink corner is my failed attempt!

I decided to go the fibreglass route. Before cutting the rust out, and not knowing how much of the arch I'd need to cut out, I wanted to make a "mould" of the inside out of fibreglass. I'd then bond this back onto the inside once I'd cut out the rust and this would hopefully make building back up with body filler retaining the shape that bit easier.

I guess now would be a good time to point out this was my first attempt working with fibreglass as well as body filling.

The problem was a suitable releasing agent to ensure I could take the mould off so the rust could be cut out. Halfords didn't seem to do that sort of thing. After a bit of research it seemed that main component of normal releasing wax was carnauba wax - I have some of that!

The picture showing the pink square is testament to no, carnauba wax meant for car exterior waxing is NOT a suitable releasing agent! That square is now permanently bonded to the car.

So, for something a bit more robust. In the end I went with what I had in the house - get ready to cringe...

I used ordinary table candles melted down over hot water and applied thinly to the inside of the arch. It was horribly messy and wrote off the kitchen for a few days but did the trick nicely.

I then built up numerous layers of fibreglass and fibretissue until a nice mould was created. With a bit of effort and hope it popped off cleanly when set. A slightly tricky job manoeuvring it out of the arch past the inner skeleton but with a bit of wiggling it was out.

This is the result:


and:


Next step was removing the infected metal back to something decent. For this I used one of those little dremel replica tools. With it being a replica the speed control broke within 5 minutes so was left using it at maximum speed!

Worked very well though and allowed for a pretty precise cut using the dremel (real this time) reinforced cutting discs.

One from the outside:


One from the side:


In the end I didn't actually have to take too much of the arch off only really the outer edge.

This rendered my mould attempts pointless to some extent but I still bonded it in anyway as I'm sure it must help in some small way, maybe.

The next bit was just using some wire mesh and a combination of Isopon P38 and P40 built it back up again.



Next was a proper rub down of the area I wanted to repaint. Oh, minor but I also ground out and filled two smaller rust spots at the rear of the arch.

Looking back at the pictures, especially the one below I can't quite understand why I decided to take so much back to bare metal. I think there were a few spots that had been touched up badly I wanted to include, but it may have just been a bit of a mad day - one of the two.

I can't remember what grit level I went down to in the end, 400 or 800 I think. To check I had the arch blended right it seemed quite useful to wet the area then look down the side of it. The shiny surface showed up any pinholes and also any bad blending.



Then a few layers of primer, Halfords zinc stuff I think it was - the can says its supposed to help stop rust returning, we'll see. Obviously goes without saying that preparation was key to a good coat. The Halfords cans need some serious shaking, I mean loads.

If you don't shake it enough you get a really inconsistent flow. Good to find these things out on the primer layer rather than colour/top coats

Shake it about twice as long as it says after leaving it in a bath of hot water for 10 - 15 mins. Shake it until your arms can't take it any more, then its done.

I also used one of those tack cloths to remove any dust I could and did the spraying as far into my garage as I could after soaking the floor a bit with water to keep any dust at bay.

It may not be completely necessary for the primer layer since its sanded down a bit after drying but I wanted to work out the process for the colour coat.

Here is the arch including primer:


Sanded down again - I actually went too far and had to reapply primer so be really careful. The point that the arch lip begins is a nice point for any sanding block you are using to pivot on and sand much quicker. I resorted to really light hand sanding in the end to avoid this.


And then the colour coat. This was again Halfords own KH3 spray can. Again, same rules for shaking apply.


I still need to do the clear coat. In fact, I need to sand down the back of the arch and tackle the rust that has reappeared. The part I cut out and replaces with fibreglass is looking good and no signs of any rust returning but it looks like the spots I tackled at the rear have returned

So, a still as yet unfinished repair, but I think I am so far pleased with how it has turned out. I'll need to sort out the bits that have returned which is a pain but once this is done and the clear coat is on I don't think it will be half bad. The colour difference is there, but I think with a bit of blending that should become a little less obvious.

So, should my hands be severed to avoid further incidents such as this inflicted on my Skyline or does it look reasonable?

Cheers all
VaguelyAmused is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2010, 09:34 AM   #6
RSP Tuned 515.7 BHP
 
dubs's Avatar
 
Drives: R33 GTST & ZX10R
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bristol brizzle!
Posts: 7,041
Club ID#: 7254

Country Flag

Trade Feedback: (12)


View My Pictures
looking great mate where and how much were those leather seats from?
__________________
Once asked: Hey is that one of those Jap Honda GTI thingys?!?
Girlfriend quote: “babe, my bum keeps sticking to your leather seats”
Quote:
Originally Posted by Banter's Minion View Post
dubs for prime minister for posting that
Quote:
Originally Posted by myki View Post
dubs is actually a younger version of ron burgundy
Quote:
Originally Posted by paul42 View Post
Dubs killing everything on track including a ferrari....
dubs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2010, 11:31 AM   #7
confused.com
 
hesh's Avatar
 
Drives: Toyota Hilux surf 3.0 in blue and rust
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: In the deep dark furthest reaches of my mind
Posts: 6,592
Club ID#: 8636

Country Flag

Trade Feedback: (12)


View My Pictures
looks nice! have you fitted the coby's yet?

i wouldnt go the flex pipe route as there is minimal suport round that area for the exhaust and the number six studs may break as you sugest.

one other tip is use a sealant onthe gasket as well it just helps it along.

and the standard nuts.. you may find the washers are too big and dont clear the welds so be prepared to source new washers and nuts...
__________________
For service parts and spares, including NA
conceptua Tuning.
Check out my Youtube page for updates Ellis Auto
http://www.youtube.com/user/Hesh1138
EAdevelopements mow has a Facebook page too!
hesh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2010, 06:54 PM   #8
Seasoned Member
 
Drives: Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-4
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Charminster, Bournemouth
Posts: 33
Club ID#: 14939

Country Flag

Trade Feedback: (0)


View My Pictures
dubs - seats, door cards etc were done by LSC Interiors and bought off here back in early 2009. £350 in total - absolute bargain IMHO! The guy I bought them off said they cost close to £1k to be done when new. You may want to get in touch with the company that originally did them:

http://www.lsc-interiors.co.uk/id110.html

I've no experience with the company personally as I bought them ready done but they are brilliant quality.

hesh - I've not fitted the Coby's yet, got to get her through the MOT first then they will be the first things fitted. And well reminded! I remember reading your troubles with the washers back in the original Coby's thread. I was thinking about flange nuts such as the ones in the Conceptua Tuning studs kit but these may actually be wider than the original washers.

Along with all the other "crap" in the garage I have an RB25DET head. I'll probably use this to test fit the Coby's so I can have any smaller/ground down washers prepared before proper fitting.

Thanks for the info about the flexi pipe, I'm glad you said that because up until that point it was almost certainly the route I was likely to take. It sounds like the best option is to repeat your steps and weld the appropriate fitting onto the Coby's. I'll have to ask around work see if anyone has "hidden talents" with a welder.

Cheers guys
VaguelyAmused is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-05-2010, 10:44 PM   #9
Seasoned Member
 
Drives: Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-4
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Charminster, Bournemouth
Posts: 33
Club ID#: 14939

Country Flag

Trade Feedback: (0)


View My Pictures
Nothing too exciting, exhaust attacked with some steel wool to get rid of the surface rust and whatnot. It has come out quite nice, fingers crossed for it sounding OK.



Hopefully be taking a few days off to get all this fitted so will get some more interesting stuff up soon
VaguelyAmused is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-05-2010, 04:30 PM   #10
Seasoned Member
 
Drives: Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-4
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Charminster, Bournemouth
Posts: 33
Club ID#: 14939

Country Flag

Trade Feedback: (0)


View My Pictures
Right all a bit of an update. Managed to get a few bits fitted on my day off. Not quite as many bits done as I'd hoped - forgot to pick up a spark plug socket

Exhaust and front tension rods fitted.

Tension rods weren't too much of a pain. I picked up a can of Plus-Gas to help with freeing the bolts. I guess it helped since I got all the bolts off but I never bothered to try getting one off without so no idea how good it is.

The main problem is just plain old access and watching that you don't loose your knuckles on the tarmac! I used an electric impact wrench to loosen the big single bolt that goes through the tension rod bush but the others were just with a wrench.

With all the bolts out you just knock the tension rod upwards and out of its "mounting points" (light taps with a hammer did it for me) and then slide it forwards and with a bit of wiggling it comes free. This is probably loads easier on a RWD car because you won't have the front drive shafts in the way.

Comparison of the old vs Driftworks tension rods:


New ones were pretty easy to fit. Just slide the front pillow ball part (with the spacers on) up and forwards into its mounting point and put the bolt in to keep it there while you bolt up the other end.

I put the bolts in "upside down" - just a damn sight easier given the drive shafts being in the way. I don't see this as a problem but if anyone screams at me I will swap the orientation over. Just going to make removal for fitting suspension/camber parts at a later date a bit easier.





The orange paint on them is pretty fragile and its dead easy to mark it when using a spanner to adjust them but apart from that they've made an obvious difference.

Steering does feel more precise. The car in general feels more precise really and copes with the road conditions better. Before I'd find myself fighting a bit with the steering wheel when small pot holes etc would have it pull the steering about. That is much reduced now and the wheels stay where you point them. They seem to feed back the road conditions a bit better too.

Perhaps a placebo effect I like em so far

Next was the exhaust. Again a fair bit of Plus-Gas used here. They need need a bit of an impact to get them free still but no sheered bolts so good news!

The rubber hangers weren't too troublesome to remove apart from one. However I realised before removing it from the exhaust that it had a bolt through the other end.

This is probably plainly obvious to most, but, I'd recommend that you remove the rubber hanger found on the right hand side just forward of the backbox from the car by undoing the bolt rather than sliding it off the exhaust (leaving it on the car) like all the rest.

You can then fit this to the new exhaust prior to crawling underneath the car and it gives you one relatively easy rubber hanger to just bolt back on to take the weight of the exhaust.

Comparison of new and old exhaust:


No problems bolting it on. I took the recommendation of Hesh and used exhaust sealant along with new gaskets to seal it up. All good so far.

Its a nice fit I think. It has a 3 1/2 tailpipe so not excessive. My hands were black by the time I'd finished so no pic just now. I'll get a pick of the rear and maybe an audio clip or something so you can have a listen.

Below 3K its got a pretty low loud rumble but above 3K it looses the base and sounds really nice. I'll see if the low loud note grows on me but if not I may look at an adjustable bung or something.

Cheers all
VaguelyAmused is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 06:50 PM   #11
Seasoned Member
 
Drives: Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-4
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Charminster, Bournemouth
Posts: 33
Club ID#: 14939

Country Flag

Trade Feedback: (0)


View My Pictures
So a minor update here.

The exhaust below 3k revs was a little too noisy for my liking so I bought an adjustable exhaust bung. This fitted nicely and reduced the exhaust rumble a bit.

However, a few days later the exhaust sounded really horrible, very raspy. Suspecting the bung I removed it which made it worse!

Crawled under the car to find the middle silencer had split open, I can only assume due to the increased back pressure the bung created.

So, I'm on the lookout for a quick cheap replacement - joy!
VaguelyAmused is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 07:46 PM   #12
confused.com
 
hesh's Avatar
 
Drives: Toyota Hilux surf 3.0 in blue and rust
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: In the deep dark furthest reaches of my mind
Posts: 6,592
Club ID#: 8636

Country Flag

Trade Feedback: (12)


View My Pictures
Quote:
Originally Posted by VaguelyAmused View Post
So a minor update here.

The exhaust below 3k revs was a little too noisy for my liking so I bought an adjustable exhaust bung. This fitted nicely and reduced the exhaust rumble a bit.

However, a few days later the exhaust sounded really horrible, very raspy. Suspecting the bung I removed it which made it worse!

Crawled under the car to find the middle silencer had split open, I can only assume due to the increased back pressure the bung created.

So, I'm on the lookout for a quick cheap replacement - joy!

which bits do you need i have various exhaust sections sat here doing nowt
__________________
For service parts and spares, including NA
conceptua Tuning.
Check out my Youtube page for updates Ellis Auto
http://www.youtube.com/user/Hesh1138
EAdevelopements mow has a Facebook page too!
hesh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 08:48 PM   #13
Seasoned Member
 
Drives: Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-4
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Charminster, Bournemouth
Posts: 33
Club ID#: 14939

Country Flag

Trade Feedback: (0)


View My Pictures
Hesh,

That would be excellent! Unfortunately the middle silencer has gone so I'd need something to replace that entire section, the bit that is "underneath" the other in the two pictures I've put up of the exhaust separated.

Now that the MOT is out of the way, I'll be making some enquiries at Mike Stokes to see about getting the Coby's fitted along with a new powerflow exhaust so unless they come back with a silly price I'm just looking for something to get by with until then.

Fingers crossed you have something that is suitable, otherwise there's a stock GTS-T exhaust on ebay that'll suffice

Cheers Hesh
VaguelyAmused is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©2002 - 2019, Verticalscope Inc.