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Old 16-03-2011, 02:21 PM   #1
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R34 GT rear brake sticking

Hi, I can't find much info on the R34 rear brakes but one of mine is stuck on since yesterday and getting really hot and smelly if I drive it. I had to clean up a front caliper piston a couple of weeks ago so was gonna check if same is needed on the rear. Do I need a special tool to wind the piston on the rear? Or is it just a straight push in like the fronts? Also is it possibly the handbrake shoes sticking rather than the caliper piston sticking?

Thanks.
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Old 16-03-2011, 07:43 PM   #2
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An update in case it helps anyone in future: According to a mechanic friend if there are shoes inside the drum for the handbrake then the caliper pistons just push straight back. So on that basis I used a G clamp and wood shim to push it straight back which has certainly freed up the movement of the wheel. Just need to see how it drives now and if it stays free after using the brakes a bit.
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Old 16-03-2011, 10:14 PM   #3
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are they single piston with a slider like the r33 na or are twin piston like the turbo r33
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Old 26-03-2011, 10:50 AM   #4
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They are single piston on the rear with a slider.

I got it sorted in the end. Most difficult part was getting the rear caliper piston back into the seal as the back of the piston is bigger circumference than the front - needed two pairs of hands. I didn't wan't to take the seal out as it was in really good condition and I wasn't sure how without risking damage.

What I can't believe is that the other front one's gone now. That's a front then a rear then the other front - one after another in a month.
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Old 28-03-2011, 07:32 PM   #5
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Ive had to recon one of each of the front and rear calipers pistons.

Ive always had a new seal kit at hand just incase its required.

Reference only not instructions

Basically I Removed the caliper and then the pads and shims from it, I got my sister to pump the brake pedel, ( carefully monitoring the brake resiviour and topping it up), used a little cloth (around the brake line) and small mole grips to clip the line closes as the piston merged from the caliper. (You would normally use an air hose to pop the piston out but if seized It does not always work).

Remove the seal and inspected the caliper pot. used some wet and dry paper to remove the corrosion on the piston and around in the pot. Cleaned it all up and re-assembled with the original seal as it was in good condition using a really nice high temp silver greeze my mate recommended (Using a nice greese is important).

Problem free ever since.

To get the seal kits, Conceptua tuning is the best place.

Last edited by tigergeorge; 28-03-2011 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 29-03-2011, 09:28 AM   #6
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Thanks tigergeorge - that's reassuring to know its been trouble free for you since then. It's more or less how I'd done it in the end. However I didn't put any grease in. Is that something you put inside the seal after inserting the piston or did you lube the whole piston with it before inserting? Is copper grease any good? I have some of that.
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Old 29-03-2011, 06:01 PM   #7
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A little brake fluid around the seal does the trick also.

Yeah guess they are prone to this sticking/ seizing issue, its important to do the recon and not ignore the fault has it causes brake fade and will were the pad to the metal base then grind the rear disks which are more expensive than the fronts.

This can also be caused by pushing the piston back into the pot when there is still grime and corrosion seated on the extruding porition (If there is dirt under the plastic boot or the boot/ cover is damaged, maybe weather then there will be a build up of crude).

Often/ I would imagen some Garages dont check this to save time and just quick compress the piston back into the caliper and refit with new pads etc.
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