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Old 04-12-2014, 10:57 PM   #1
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Rb20e wont start ? Got spark, got fuel ?

Hi everyone

I have an Rb20e R33 and it wont start...

I was driving a few days ago and my car decided to eat its distributor... I have had the dizzy changed and timed up, new plugs, its got spark too ?

She doesnt even attempt to start ?

Could it have flooded ?
Washed the pistons and lost compression ?

It ran perfect before the dizzy died

Any help is appreciated as its my daily

Thanks
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Old 04-12-2014, 11:41 PM   #2
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Are you certain its timed correctly?
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Old 05-12-2014, 12:37 AM   #3
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have you got all leads fitted on in the correct place?
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Nice to see the scottish contingent but I didn't realise we had the legendary Speedr33per in our midst
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Old 05-12-2014, 12:40 AM   #4
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Im sure it is timed correctly, although we cant get her to run to adjust it.


It would be helpful if anyone could run me through how to time one of these engines ? As i and my friend have never timed one before, we are just going off general experience, we are using a timing gun and getting it to TDC and rotating the dizzy 180 etc... But it will just not fire

Any help appreciated again

Thank you
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Old 05-12-2014, 12:43 AM   #5
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All leads are in the correct place, as we checked them twice, the spark on all cylinders is strong too, although the plugs are wet when removed.

It has had a replacement dizzy and cap also with sensor
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Old 05-12-2014, 12:48 AM   #6
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timing wont have anything to do with it since it was the cap that failed my bet is the leads are in the wrong place.
also remove the plugs and make sure there dry as if wet it wont start
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Old 05-12-2014, 01:47 AM   #7
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Forgot to mention

The dizzy rotor snapped inside the cap and then destroyed the cap,


It has had a replacement distributor unit all together... Hence re timing

And im working with a qualified mechanic, we only spent roughly an hour or two on it tho ... Tomorrow we are clearing cylinders of fuel and raising compression with some oil in their.



Thanks again
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Old 05-12-2014, 02:07 AM   #8
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Again i appreciate your help

Thank you
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:06 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dayle94 View Post
Forgot to mention

The dizzy rotor snapped inside the cap and then destroyed the cap,


It has had a replacement distributor unit all together... Hence re timing

And im working with a qualified mechanic, we only spent roughly an hour or two on it tho ... Tomorrow we are clearing cylinders of fuel and raising compression with some oil in their.



Thanks again

Why on earth would you want to add oil to the cylinders if your trying to start a motor....was that the qualified mechanics idea?
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tricky-Ricky View Post
Why on earth would you want to add oil to the cylinders if your trying to start a motor....was that the qualified mechanics idea?
Adding oil to a cylinder with worn piston rings will increase the cylinder's compression. By taking the compression on a cylinder first with no oil and then taking a compression test after injecting an ounce or so into the cylinder, a cylinder with weak or worn piston rings would increase. If there's no increase after adding oil to the weak cylinder the valve is faulty.
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaboom View Post
Adding oil to a cylinder with worn piston rings will increase the cylinder's compression. By taking the compression on a cylinder first with no oil and then taking a compression test after injecting an ounce or so into the cylinder, a cylinder with weak or worn piston rings would increase. If there's no increase after adding oil to the weak cylinder the valve is faulty.
Did you read the OPs post properly, he was talking about adding oil to the cylinder in order to raise the compression to start the motor not to compression test,
Aside from that I have been building and wrenching motors for the last 40 odd years so I think I would know the reasons for adding oil to a cylinder fella.
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Old 06-12-2014, 01:12 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tricky-Ricky View Post
Did you read the OPs post properly, he was talking about adding oil to the cylinder in order to raise the compression to start the motor not to compression test,
Aside from that I have been building and wrenching motors for the last 40 odd years so I think I would know the reasons for adding oil to a cylinder fella.
You can raise it with that method and then start the motor tho.. We do it on our v6 3.9l all the time when we blow rings and burn out valves so we can determine what parts to order before we pull it apart (it's used for a race night, 4 hours straight 3 nights a week for two weeks so it gets rebuilt pretty often). It starts with the oil on there but it won't run long and burns the oil off fairly quickly.
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Old 06-12-2014, 12:00 PM   #13
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Totally pointless practice, if an engine has not got enough compression to start then adding oil is a complete waste of time, most of the time it will just kill the spark anyway, if it does start its basically called dieseling and can damage the engine, IE starting through compression/detonation, your not dealing with a tractor engine.
I despair at what passes for mechanical knowledge here sometimes.
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Old 06-12-2014, 04:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tricky-Ricky View Post
Totally pointless practice, if an engine has not got enough compression to start then adding oil is a complete waste of time, most of the time it will just kill the spark anyway, if it does start its basically called dieseling and can damage the engine, IE starting through compression/detonation, your not dealing with a tractor engine.
I despair at what passes for mechanical knowledge here sometimes.
It gets rebuilt once a month anyways, it's just helpful for those 10 seconds to see what parts we need to order so I'm not buying a whole kit when I can just preorder the right pieces. Saves on buying whole lots for more since individually we save money from manufacturers but that's just how our team does it.
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Old 07-12-2014, 01:25 PM   #15
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Hi there
just chiping in with a few basics


position of rotor with crank mark at zero



distributer plug removed is no 1 working CLOCKWISE 4 2 6 3 5 one in the middle is coil
rotor turns anti clockwise so firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4




As you are geting fuel i assume the belt is not snapped but pull the cover and check that it's not jumped.
also assume you have checked that the rotor is turning when the engine cranks
these things seldom go for a holiday without a reason ( although it does happen ) if the timing hasn't jumped maybe have to dig deeper and find why it happened.
photos and firing order taken from my car which is running well
sorry about the size of the pics don't know how to resize

Last edited by ernie; 07-12-2014 at 06:46 PM.
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