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Discussion Starter #1
Have just got my first skyline, an R33 GTS, love it but already it has cut out four times !!! like i have stalled it but then i turn the ignition and it starts fine !!?? Any help would be appreciated, hate anything wrong with my cars !!
 

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under what conditions does it stall? any after market mods? some of these such as bov's can cause stalling
 

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knackered Lambda sensor could be a cause. I changed mine and it stopped it stalling.

If the car has done more than 40,000km it is recommended they be changed. bout £100

Moff
 

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I go with the Pope on this one, if its got an after market blow off valve fitted then that is your prime suspect.
 
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Buster/Robo

can i ask why chaps ?? .. Is it that BOV's cause stalling on all cars or just a skyline ?? ...

ta

s
 

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Well its all about the AFM measuring air into the system straight after it has passed through the air filter , which is then accounted for and decisions about fueling and idle and all that old stuff is made by the management sys. Then some max flower boy shoves a BOV on that chucks a load of this air away for the sake of a whoosh noise, after it has been calculated and allowed for, so the engine thinks its still there but it aint if you get my drift, so the fueling then goes to cock and is most noticeable when slowing to stop as the car will stall.

Having said all that it isnt the rule, on some peoples cars it doesnt happen at all, some very rarely, and others frequently. I suppose it depends on a lot of factors like BOV, BOV spring setting etc etc.

The standard BOV recirculates the dumped air back into the system. There are ways to over come this idle/stall problem with EIDs chips which stabalise the tickover.

I think thats about it but feel free to point out any E & O 's
 
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lol :D .. sorry Buster .. me 2 1/2 year son was insisting daddy read him a story !

thats really interesting stuff .. i thought a BOV was beneficial (though im the first to admit i know nothing!) as it helped to get rid of the air quicker and therefore minimising lag. I was considering getting one (not for the noise factor!) but definitely won't now .. don't fancy the idea of stalling a car with a hot turbo!

Cheers Buster

Steve
 

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It's not detrimental to the normal running of the engine as far as I am aware (fitting one,) but as you point out stalling halfway across a junction could be detremental to the overall shape of your car. It is mainly a problem at idle speed where the stability is upset when slowing down ie gradually reducing revs.

Uncle Buster will tell your little man some good story's if you run out by the way
 

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Is one to assume that the fitment of a recirculating blow off valve is the valve of choice, should one decide to exchange the original unit?

Or so Scouce Steve can under stand:

Eh, have I gotta nick a recyclying one like mate coz the old one is proper shiiiiite.

Cardiff R33, there is an assumption here that you have an aftermarket BOV fitted, is this correct?
 
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ta buster :)

LOL :) thank you Mr Hunt (with a C;)) :D :D :D :D

Sorry Cardiff R33 .. slight Hijack which is my fault
 

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Buster is spot on as usual, it is to do with the management system and its complete suprise as to where all the air has gone :D
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have got an aftermarket BOV, aint checked car thoroughly but am pretty certain its a HKS ! so this could very well be causing it, thanks Buster. But what can i do to stop this then, i drove to work this morning and drove calmy and it never happened !
 

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Dandy Highwayman
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afaik a fuel computer such as Apexi AFC can correct the stalling prob with external BOVs or you can get a recirculating dump valve
 

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HKS do an EIDS which stabalises tickover. Wether it is the right apllication for this situation, i cannot say.
 

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check if your ECU's working properly as well, there was a diagnostic mode you could go into the R33, but I dunno it off the top of my head. BOV also does it as Buster said. Basically anything that can trigger the stall prevention will do it, make sure your fuels not running too lean etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If anyone knows how to get into the diagnostics of the r33 I am sure alot of us would wanna know ;)
 

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There is an easier way to read the ECU fault codes using the connector in the fuse box beneath the steering wheel. All you have to do is short two pins for a couple of seconds, then the engine check light on the dashboard flashes out the codes.

The connector looks like this:

0!00!00!00
X!X0!00!00

Short the two pins marked X for two seconds. The engine check light will then start flashing, the number of long flashes being the first digit, and the short flashes the second digit.

Codes:

11 Crankshaft position sensor
12 MAF sensor circuit
13 Coolent temperature circuit
14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
21 Ignition circuit
31 ECU
34 Knock sensor
43 Throttle position circuit
45 Injector leak
51 Ignition circuit
54 Auto signal to ECU
55 All OK
 

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My car started to stall after I fitted an HKS Bov. I reset the ecu and now I don't seem to have the problem half as much. Only the odd stall when in traffic eg; when only using idle to 1200 rpm.
 
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