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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Following on from my post in the newbie section I thought I should post up in the proper place.

Picked up a R33 GTST friday just gone, since driving it I have noticed the speedo randomly cutting out. It cuts back in once the car slows to around 20Mph. Is this a common problem and what things should I check for to try and fix this? Its starting to get a little irritating! lol

Thanks in advance for any help :)
 

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It sounds like you may have a dry joint where the spedo convertor has been soldered into the origonal wiring, this can happen if the wires are not 'tinned' before soldering together. The spedo covertor itself my be faulty, you can pick thes up from E bay for about £30, or alternatively there is a thread in here someware explaining how to convert your spedo from Km/h to MPH without the convertor chip, this is apparently a better way to do it. have a look for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, thanks. I`ll have a search for the post. Ih the meantime how do I go about finding the converter? Is it a clocks out job or complete dash out job! lol

Forgive me for sounding stupid but i`ve not had one of these cars before so still have a lot to learn! :)
 

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You have to remove the section of dash panel that goes from around the stereo to the drivers side of dash, be very carefull with this as it can crack easily. you can now get to the screws which secure the clocks. remove these, then carefuly pull clocks forward enough to get your hand in the back and disconnect all plugs from clocks, noting there positions, if i remember right they cant go back in the wrong postions anyway, but best be safe. you will see were the chip has been soldered into the signal wire, +12V and ground. Peel back the tape and redo these joints.
 

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Heres a better set of instruction I found on another thread:
To check the wiring, you are going to have to take the whole dash out carefully.
Step 1.
1. Lift out ash tray and take out phillips screw at back of hole.
2. undo 2 phillips screws under dash/ speedo pod cover
3. Lower steering wheel to lowest position.
4. Carefully lift up the trim around gear shift, unplug wire from this
and put to one side.
5. Carefully ease the left centre dash away from the edge and work it out all the way along.
6. unclip two orange wiring plugs and one white plug from behing panel ( Heater / clock controls etc )
7. Ease rubber sensor pipe from back of panel to the right of the orange plugs and also detach white thin plug below this.
8. ease whole dash away from sterring column and detach the plug for the mirror control and any fog lamp wiring.
9. undo the remaining 2 screws from the dash pod cover. Lift panel away.
10. disconnect battery before undoing and removing dash pod, this is held in by 3 screws. If you dont it could F..k up your airbags etc.
11. lift dash pod away and unclip 3 plugs from the rear of pod.

12. Inspect the wires from the speedo converter, they should be as follows:
Red wire: positive live
Green wire: Negative earth
Yellow wire signal in
blue wire signal out
grey wire: ECU.

The fault will more than likely be either the red pos or green earth wire. either a bad connection to fitting or if soldered its coming away. Either way it is down to bad fitting by whoever did the job!

Refit it all back in same stages , but be carefull not to snag the speedo converter when you fit the pod back in.

Hope this helps you out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cheers for that! I`ll have a go at getting it all sorted at the weekend, now all I need to do is try and find the other guide for converting it without the chip and do it that way
 

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found it, theres more info if you go to the thread,
andy42uk-2
It's hard being this good
Drives: R33 GTS-T 4 door sedan




Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oxford
Posts: 628
iTrader: (7) Propper speedometer to MP/h conversion.

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R33 GTS-T Speedometer conversion from Km/h with speed limiter, to MP/h without speed limit.

I have posted on this subject in the past, and I was wrong about a couple of things, however I now FULLY understand what is happening and why.

The speed pulse signal is feed directly to the speedo head as a bi-polar signal from the sensor in the gearbox.
The speedometer uses this signal for the speedo reading and then CONDITIONS this signal into a square wave (at about ¼ of the original frequency), which is outputted to the rest of the cars electronics, ECU, HICAS Power steering speed sensitivity.
The good news is that the speedo head is modifiable to UK spec. if you are able to work with a soldering iron, and a lot of common sense.
THIS information may well piss off people selling converter ‘chips’ however I feel the Skyline is a special case as with the correct signals the car is MUCH nicer to drive, and feels more stable, than even with the best 5 wire converter fitted.

Firstly strip the dash out, I always remove the top steering wheel cowl then the dash trim as this avoids scratches, remove the dashboard and take it somewhere well light clean etc. split the front cover of by the plastic clips, and undo the 4 screws that hold the speedo head into the cluster, and remover the speedometer.
AT ALL TIMES BE GENTLE.
On the printed circuit board on the back of the head which you will see the foil side of, mostly at the top things are written on the pcb, and there are a set of calibration pads.

What you need to do is this, where the solder pads have ADJ 1-9 clean all pads (on mine 4+5 were joined) and join pads 6 8 and 9

Where J2 is written but no link installed join J2.

What would be the 10th adjust link is called PESL cut this link, (the solder pad is there but the pcb track is continuous), cut it and leave it as an open link.

This will get you right into the ball park, however you may need to play with the adjustment links to calibrate for your car, mine is an auto and I think its dif ratio is different to a manual, also wheel size effects things, so you may need to set up with GPS or something.
I have function generators and was able to do mine 100% accurate on the bench, but it is an easy task to add or remove links on the solder pads.
Adding a link decreases the reading, 1 buy the smallest 9 by the greatest amount, and it is incremental in a binary fashion.

This is the definitive and final answer to this question, I have today tested and tested and then tested again, this information is 100% accurate, joining J2 is what alters the conditioned signal to MPH pulses that removes the limiter, but all things should be done at once.

If anyone wants this done for them please PM me.

Andy.
P.s. If you like what you have read I have been having a hard time of late and a verbal pat on the back would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I made a new discovery with this today. The speedo only seems to cut out when the headlights are on!

I was driving with the lights on, noticed the speedo wasnt working, dont ask why but I turned the lights off and the speedo came on, turned the lights on again and the speedo went off etc etc.

Any ideas on why that could be? Would that still point to the speed converter?
 

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Yes check the wiring, when I fitted mine I had the opposite effect, only worked when lights were on. This was because I had tapped into the lighting circuit for my +12v which ment the spedo only came on when the lights are on. If you are keeping the chip check to see if it is wired to a contant +12v and ground. If you are going for the altering links at the back option and removing the chip I think it will work as normal.
 

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Hello everyone, new here but this sounds a bit like the problem I am having with my Spec 1 R33. It has mph dials, so i am assuming it has been converted. I noticed today that whilst driving, the speedo suddenly shot up to 60mph and stayed there til the car was almost stationary, where it dropped back to read 20mph once fully stopped.
Only did this for about 15 minutes, then functioned normally again - dodgy convertor chip, or other problems.

Please help a newbie girly blonde

:D

J. xxx
 
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