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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. I'm seriously wound up now. Driving home from work today the car seemed fine for the first mile. After the first mile I have to climb this slight incline which is about half a mile long, as I started climbing the incline I was in second gear and as soon as I hit boost the car was juddering and shuddering around like it had no petrol left in it at all. Managed to get it up the incline without hitting boost again and as I got to the top of the incline the guy in front stopped to let someone out of a junction. I stopped too and the engine followed suit and just died. I started it and it wouldn't idle. Started it again and managed to ease it over into a bus stop. Popped the hood and called my mate Ronnie and he suggested it may be the plugs. After 5 minutes dropped the hood again and started the car. Car started and idled no problem. Drove home but kept it off boost. In the following 2 mile journey it still died twice. Got home and removed the plugs, nothing much wrong with them other than they were the wrong plugs and they were a little charred up but could have been cleaned. Changed them anyway with platinums and went out for a spin. Let it warm up to half temp on water and 72degrees on oil. Tried to boost it up a local dual carriageway and everything was fine, until it got to about 3000-4000revs at which point the car just starts miss firing and at one point it backfired so loud I swear I saw a flash of flame in my rear view mirror and there were no cars around. Any ideas what could be wrong? Please someone help me cos i'm fed up now. 3 things have gone wrong in 3 days of having the thing.
 

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To be honest it still sounds like it maybe the plugs, what plugs have you put in and what gaps were they set at?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
They were Champion Platinum plugs specified for the GTR.

Champion RC8PYPB4

1mm gap I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I got the car from a trader in Kent with a 1 year warranty but the problem is the trader is in Kent and I'm not. It's over an hour and a half down to the trader and if there is something seriously wrong with it then it would probably die before it got there. Only thing I can think of is to try and fix it if it's likely to be an easily fixed problem or beg the trader to let me use the warranty in another garage because the warranty is actually through a company who specifically provide vehicle warranties and not actually through the trader.
 

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I'd bring the plug gaps down first, 0.8mm gap with Iridiums plugs recommended.
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Right new addition guys. I just took the car out to try and get some more accurate info on the situation. It's nothing to do with boost, nothing to do with accelerating it's something else. I can be driving along at any speed in any gear and at some point (No particular point in the rev range as I previously thought) the engine just stops working completely, yes I do mean it STOP WORKING. The engine quite litterally misses about 3 revolutions and then starts again. This happens when accelerating also and this is EVERYTIME I accelerate hardish. When I got home I wanted to test to see if it was just missing all the time and wether it mattered if the car was on boost or load. I left the car idling with the keys in the ignition (Not on turbo timer) and after about 5 minutes of just sitting and idling the engine stopped. No warning, no funny noises, no spluttering the engine just shut itself down as though I had turned the key off or the turbo timer had timed out. I'm very puzzled. Please can someone tell me what's wrong before I give up on cars all together cos I aint got a clue now.
 

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M's Factory
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sounds like an ECU shut down to me if your saying it lasts 3 revolutions.

What is the full spec of the car ?
 

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Alex, listern m8, I know it's your new pride and joy. But this really should be sorted out by the garage.....It's there problem let them deal with it....At least tell them straight away b4 time goes on and they try blaming you.....It's a lot of money to spend and have problems with within the first week. They have the responsibility to fix it not on the the warenty but as you've not had it for very long............... I hope it's nothing serious but mate if it is and you do nothing about it, you'llbe left with a hugh problem...Remember not everythings covered on the 1yr warenty....they may try and get out of it...
I hope this is justme being a little sceptable but I was nearly cought b4..Remember my black zx....I got it swaped over as it wasn't working properly....


Sorry for the poor spelling every1 :) I really am sh*t
 

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M's Factory
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Listen to Nismo, he is on form this morning :) try the dealer first
 

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yeah, Alex get the dealer to sort this..should you try and fix it yourself they may try and get out of the warranty by saying you broke it!!
 

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Take it back and buy my R32 :D Seriously, good luck with the warranty company - be prepared for a lot of letters and phone calls...

Phil
 

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Bullet Tooth Tony
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sounds like the cam timing sensor to me?
if you take it back mate and it needs to stay there and need a lift home let me know i'm only down the road......
 

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warranties are a pain in the ass but seriously u need to get them to sort it out. even if u have to get it towed there.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah I agree with you all and am very appreciative of you all caring so much and replying and trying to help. The problem is I have to look at it from the following point of view because of the hours I have to work and my limited budget since I only bought the car 4 days ago and have forked out over £80 in fuel since then, plus the cost of getting into Trax and £40 on new plugs last night etc.

I want to find out what is wrong with the car before I start pissing around with the dealership. If I can't find out what's wrong with it before the end of the week then yes I fully agree and will take it back to the dealership or phone the warranty people. As previously stated about being prepared for a lot of letters and phone calls this is why I am trying to sort it myself if it's cheap enough to do. Abbey motorsport PMed me and suggested it is probably the AFM and that I need to get it to them for them to check the ECU codes. If they check the ECU codes and it turns out to be the AFM at that point I can contact the dealership or the warranty company (Still not sure which I have to call yet) and advise them that Abbey have checked the ECU without actually working on the vehicle and therefore not causing any risk of voiding the warranty and have advised me it is the AFM and this needs replacing. Abbey will also have given me a quote for the work which I will present to the warranty company and if they DEFINATELY want me to go to a garage of their choice to inforce the warranty then I will but otherwise will get Abbey to do it on the warranty.
 

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NiteskyR,

yes you read the fault codes without the nissan Consult , be we can read the input and output from the ecu live and see if any voltages are dropping out etc etc.
 
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