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Discussion Starter #1
I was driving my car where it suddenly decided to cut out when i slowed down to make a turn. It caught me by suprise as the steering became heavy obv when engine cut out. Noticed the engine light come on too. I put it in P and started again and continued no issues. Few days laters it did the same. Sometimes it appears to want to cut out some occasions almost like limp mode but but sometime continues normally. Today at the lights waiting it cut out. I had it fully serviced couple weeks ago and no issues. Put it on the diagnostic and it gave the following codes.
C1109 battery voltage abnormal
C1130 engine light

I just finished doing a mod job today and left the battery disconnected overnight it reset the ecu and the engine light disappeared. Drove it for about 30mins then it did it again with light coming on and i was driving this time not waiting or slowing down at 40mph.

Dont fancy doing my commute in it with it doing that. But has anyone experienced this and what was done to cure this. It had a new battery probably 6months ago. Im not sure what could be causing the abnormal voltage fault code. Does anybody have recommended checks that i can do. Alternator, cam sensors or coils etc??

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Couldn't find either of those codes in the manual, what reader are you using?
I would put a meter on the battery when the engine is running and see if its the correct voltage, it should be 12.9 to 14.7V could be a charging fault.

No need to disconnect battery overnight, just a quick disconnect/reconnect will clear short term codes and trims.
 

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For me, the symptons you are describing had to do with my alternator. I bought 3 alternators from a UK vendor and all 3 had to be replaced. In the end, I just asked for a refund. I had the same issues and the "limp mode" actions would appear randomly. I had the car battery and alternator tested and at the time it seemed fine for the test. The way I was able to figure it out was that I have a dashdaq screen that allows me to monitor all the oem sensors, plus extra senors that I have installed. Initial driving was fine, but once I started to speed up a bit, I noticed by my voltage climb upwards of 16V. Once the happened, it seems as though the ECU tried to protect itself by going into limp mode. The fix was to get a new alternator.

Now correct if I'm wrong, but if your battery is old as well, it might not be a bad idea to replace both. From what I understand, if you start having charging issues, it puts strain on the other component meaning that your alternator is bad, then you battery has to work harder and vice versa.
 

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After my last post, I just thought of something that happened before I had the alternator issue. I did have some problems with my ground from my battery to the chassis. I remember cleaning the terminals and trying to clean up all the various ground points on the car. I think there are 7 or so, but I could be wrong. I had the same symptons as you were describing, called AA out, and they end up put a new ground wire to a different ground point for me. That fixed the problem for me at that time. I believe this was in late 2013 or early 2014. Considering I've had this car since 04, just a simple ground wire fix was fine. My alternator was going anyway which came about 4-6 months later.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys, it is a bit odd it hasn't gone into limp mode as such it glitched where it lost power then went back to normal whilst driving. More frequently it has cut at least once every time i drive which is concerning.

Left the car at home took my diesel BMW instead for my 200mile commute last night!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Couldn't find either of those codes in the manual, what reader are you using?
I would put a meter on the battery when the engine is running and see if its the correct voltage, it should be 12.9 to 14.7V could be a charging fault.

No need to disconnect battery overnight, just a quick disconnect/reconnect will clear short term codes and trims.
I believe it was a Autel Maxi diagnostic code reader that belonged to a freind which is able to read the codes if we fooled it to believe it was a Nissan 350z. That in mind i should really purchase one of my own. Would like one that allows me to access everything wirelessly and that doesn't break the bank either . Any suggestions??

The car can sometime sit without use for a week or several days even so i would expect it to be flat if it wasnt charging properly. I will do the check tonight and see if i get the correct voltage.
 

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If Hiro is correct, you could look at a grounding kit, I got one form Horsham developments, easy fit job.



All a grounding kit does is cure (if fitted correctly)the bad/corroded connection of the std earth points, you can achieve the same effect by just going through the std earth point and giving them a good clean, its a common fault on modern cars.



I believe it was a Autel Maxi diagnostic code reader that belonged to a freind which is able to read the codes if we fooled it to believe it was a Nissan 350z. That in mind i should really purchase one of my own. Would like one that allows me to access everything wirelessly and that doesn't break the bank either . Any suggestions??

The car can sometime sit without use for a week or several days even so i would expect it to be flat if it wasnt charging properly. I will do the check tonight and see if i get the correct voltage.

As above, clean up the std grounding points in the engine bay, it causes more problems on modern cars that anything else,
Those codes don't tally with any of the std 350GT manual codes, will have a look at the 350Z codes, although most are the same.

The trouble with the JDM 350GT and the 350Z is that you need a reader that can handle JOBD or you either don't get a reading or its not accurate, NDS latest version will read the codes, and I think there is an android version available.
 
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All a grounding kit does is cure (if fitted correctly)the bad/corroded connection of the std earth points, you can achieve the same effect by just going through the std earth point and giving them a good clean, its a common fault on modern .

Fair point, although I did see a noticeable improvement with the jap radio tuner and less crackling.

Maybe I fixed my grounding issue the bling way
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Right i drove it today and it did not cut out once. It did however when i was doing 50mph lose power for 2s before going back to normal, minor glitch.
I just checked the voltage when engine was running and was reading 15.3v (this was with electrics off) no change with headlights on. Could it be overcharging if there is such a thing?

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15.3 v is too high, do you mean that was with the engine not running? try it with engine running, does it drop when revved, and change when the lights are on? could be the voltage regulator in the alternator, but I think you will likely have to just replace the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
15.3 v is too high, do you mean that was with the engine not running? try it with engine running, does it drop when revved, and change when the lights are on? could be the voltage regulator in the alternator, but I think you will likely have to just replace the alternator.
Hi Dick, i tested the battery without running no ignition or anything just lifted the bonnet checked the battery and it was 13.1v. When i started it and tested it was at 15.4v but as the idle steadied it came to 15.35v.
 

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Hmm...when it came to my alternator issue, the voltage regulator had gone bad, but it was working on an intermittent basis, so it was difficult to notice straight away.

I can't say for sure if the overcharging was the issue in itself, but maybe just the fact that my alternator wasn't charging properly, caused the ECU to go into a safe mode of sorts. I'm sure Tricky can probably give you a more technical answer. Getting a new alternator fixed the issue for me.

As far as the ground points, I just cleaned up the points themselves with a wire brush. When AA came out, they added a wire from my plenum to the negative of the battery and that helped. Don't know if its necessary to get a whole grounding kit or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hmm...when it came to my alternator issue, the voltage regulator had gone bad, but it was working on an intermittent basis, so it was difficult to notice straight away.

I can't say for sure if the overcharging was the issue in itself, but maybe just the fact that my alternator wasn't charging properly, caused the ECU to go into a safe mode of sorts. I'm sure Tricky can probably give you a more technical answer. Getting a new alternator fixed the issue for me.

As far as the ground points, I just cleaned up the points themselves with a wire brush. When AA came out, they added a wire from my plenum to the negative of the battery and that helped. Don't know if its necessary to get a whole grounding kit or not.
Thanks for your suggestions Hiro, i will try cleaning the ground points but would not expect them to be bad on a modern car, i would have expected it on my old classic mini but not the skyline. It does sound like a similar problem to what you suggested with intermittent behaviour of it either cutting out or just going limp for a second or two. The code reader only came up with two codes so i have order one that JOBD/OBD2 and EOBD and will check. again nothing is suggesting the alternator immediately but i will give it a go. how come you bought 3 alternators and still knowing that was the problem where did you get the replacement eventually from??

BTW i have PM you also....
 

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AFAIK alternators use a zener diode set for voltage regulation, and with modern alternators they are not separately removable, so the whole alternator has to be replaced.

It does sound like that the problem, and the ECU is throwing a fault due to seeing too high a voltage, but I would get a Nissan code reader on it, or at least Nissan data scan to confirm.
The best place to get a good SH alternator would be Zmanalex on the 350z forum, I am pretty sure that the 350z runs the same alternator, but he also breaks 350GTs.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
AFAIK alternators use a zener diode set for voltage regulation, and with modern alternators they are not separately removable, so the whole alternator has to be replaced.

It does sound like that the problem, and the ECU is throwing a fault due to seeing too high a voltage, but I would get a Nissan code reader on it, or at least Nissan data scan to confirm.
The best place to get a good SH alternator would be Zmanalex on the 350z forum, I am pretty sure that the 350z runs the same alternator, but he also breaks 350GTs.
Thanks Tricky for posting. I would assume same engine so probably would be the same alternator. Just so that you know i called Nissan today for a cost of an alternator. He asked me to sit down. Luckily i was, because he said it will cost £733 just to purchase. My reaction was asking if it was made out of 'gold' or something. Ridiculous costs from the stealership!

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LOL! Not at all surprised, genuine parts prices are a joke, I never fit them if there is a cheaper alternative, as I said try zmanalex, he should be able to sort you one out at a sensible price,

Or I found this NISSAN Pathfinder Alternator - 2003- (23100-CD010)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So l cleaned up my engine bay with a good wash and held out for my JOBD scanner to arrive. Just taken the car for the occasional cruise and it hasn't played up as before. Very strange. Scanner arrived today and gave me the following codes.

PO345 1/2 SEN/circuit cmp - B2
P0345 2/2 SEN/ circuit CMP - B2



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So l cleaned up my engine bay with a good wash and held out for my JOBD scanner to arrive. Just taken the car for the occasional cruise and it hasn't played up as before. Very strange. Scanner arrived today and gave me the following codes.

PO345 1/2 SEN/circuit cmp - B2
P0345 2/2 SEN/ circuit CMP - B2



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That's the cam position sensors, common fault, could be just one or both, PM Zmanalex on the z forum if you want good SH parts, otherwise you could try Conseptua here for new.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks tricky, i guess there are two cam sensors tgat require changing? Also does this indicate changing the timing chain or tensioners?

bearing in mind this scanner did not pick up anything regarding the alternator, should i still be concerned or looking to replace?

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