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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all.

I got my FMIC fitted last week and the car has been fine, slight more overfueling but was expected.

The problem i have is that when i give it a boot and the engine temp gets over 80c my idle goes high.

It normallly idles at 850ish but when ive booted it for a bit then it goes to around 1000-1200.

Has anyone got any ideas?

Its an R33 GTST spec 1:

Apexi induction kit
Japspeed FMIC
Greddy profec b spec 2
straight through exhaust/decat/downpipe/screamer pipe


Cheers

Alex
 

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just out of intrest what size core is the new intercooler 70mm or 120mm as iam fitting one as soon as there back in stock a 70mm core one 10mm more than standard {32 gtr}.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok ill have a look for a leak on saturday when my mate is fitting my walbro pump. Will give it a reset and see if it makes a difference as i havent done this since its been fitted.

Hopefully it is that as then i can get it mapped with my power fc next month with no worries :)
 

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we (labrat) and me did my front-entry plenum on saturday gone. When we re-fitted the pipes we initially had an air leak which caused the revs to go from 1k cold start to 2.5k doh! it was actually only the throttle body that needed nipping up to the new plenum - we're talking a turn or two on each bolt here! then after a few blips up an down outside I had to nip up all the fmic pipes again - its stunning how much pressure these things need to hold! make sure you go around after warming the car up and nip up those bolts :)

post up your findings too mate! its good to get some closure on a thread yknow for future searchers like me who will prob forget my own advice then need to search again lol! :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
we (labrat) and me did my front-entry plenum on saturday gone. When we re-fitted the pipes we initially had an air leak which caused the revs to go from 1k cold start to 2.5k doh! it was actually only the throttle body that needed nipping up to the new plenum - we're talking a turn or two on each bolt here! then after a few blips up an down outside I had to nip up all the fmic pipes again - its stunning how much pressure these things need to hold! make sure you go around after warming the car up and nip up those bolts :)

post up your findings too mate! its good to get some closure on a thread yknow for future searchers like me who will prob forget my own advice then need to search again lol! :cheers:
I will check that mate, one of the front pipes popped off 3 days after i had it on and left me stranded for 2 hours because i couldnt get it on, had to get my mate to come and do it.

I have sprayed WD40 on all pipe connections from plenum and couldnt find the leak.

I will try tightning the throttle body.

If that doesnt work my mate is going to check it for me at lunch tommorrow, so hopefully he finds it.

I will post up what the problem was when (and if PLEASE GOD!) we find it.

Cheers for the help anthony :)

Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Car is even worse now. When i turn it on it idles at 1500rpm and stays there after choke. When i drive it, if it goes under 2000rpm it will keep reving up and down.

When i start breaking to a stop and put my foot on the clutch it will start hunting going between 1000rpm and 2000rpm a couple of times until i have stopped the car then goes back to 1500rpm.

Is this a definate boost leak?? This is really getting to me now and am meant to be having a fuel pump put in on saturday ready for mapping.

Why do things always go wrong when you are looking forward to something!!!!

Any help greatly appreciated guys.

Cheers

Alex
 

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aw mate dont get me started - I've been bleating on about getting my injectors and remap for months now and EVERY single time I find a new problem - latest one is cambelt (check the "rb25 rebuild" thread in projects). Anyhow there's gonna come a point where I've rebuilt the car entirely and nothing else more to do than map the darn thing lol!
I honestly dont know what it could be besides a boost leak - as I said mine was idling at 2.5k just because throttle body was a touch loose.
the other thing I was thinking about is that some settings on your boost controller may be out but other than that have a look around the car for something amiss/loose :/

sorry I cant help further mate
 

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the fact that its gettng worse points towards somthing getting looser.

i did have the throtle cable bracket set a little off on anthonys car wich added to the high idle. not sure if i mentioned it while i adjusted that.

hunting is usually an air leak as mentioned above, allthough on my car it was a loose wire on the lambda sensor causing the same problem..

id try cleaning your acc valve (at the back of the plenum) its the acc that cotroles tickover once the engine is warm. it cost nothing and it might fix or lessen your problem..

it could be somthing as simple as a split pipe. when cold there stiff and gaps arnt aparent. once warm they become softer and a split can allow more air to leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the fact that its gettng worse points towards somthing getting looser.

i did have the throtle cable bracket set a little off on anthonys car wich added to the high idle. not sure if i mentioned it while i adjusted that.

hunting is usually an air leak as mentioned above, allthough on my car it was a loose wire on the lambda sensor causing the same problem..

id try cleaning your acc valve (at the back of the plenum) its the acc that cotroles tickover once the engine is warm. it cost nothing and it might fix or lessen your problem..

it could be somthing as simple as a split pipe. when cold there stiff and gaps arnt aparent. once warm they become softer and a split can allow more air to leak.
We cleaned the AAC valve a couple of months ago so hoping its just a split pipe.

Getting it looked at today so hopefully we can find it. Ill keep you all updated.

Cheers guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Think we have found a slight leak coming from the trunk off the intake but couldnt be sure, pulling it apart tommorrow for a closer look.
 

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tdi power
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mine was hunting when the o2 sensor was fecked
 

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Discussion Starter #17
o2 sensor is fine.

Looks like my Idle control valve is absolutely f00ked.

Also the VVT solenoid has oil coming into the plug?!?!?!? WTF!?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Idle control valve replaced and VVT solenoid replaced. Car is running perfect now and is pulling like a fooking train. Aint felt it drive like this for ages.
 

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ɹǝsn pǝɹǝʇsı&#3
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Sorry for bringing this back from the dead but I'm having the same sort of problem, the car idles around 1200rpm when cold but them shoots up to 2000-2200 rpm when warm.

How did you know your idle control valve was fooked, is there a way of checking it without buying a new one to try it?
 
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