Fuel pump swap
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piece of piss.
Take fuel pump fuse out and crank car over - it'll try to start but wont - keep going for about 10 seconds. Remove the fuel cap.
Disconnect the battery
Lift up your boot carpet and you'll see an access hatch cover with 4 bolts holding it on. Remove that being careful not to snap the bolts.
Under that will be the top of the tank with access hatch visible. You need to prise off the two fuel hoses noting which way round they go, and secure them so that they don't slip down the back of the tank. You'll get some fuel gush out, don't worry about that.
Then, undo all 8 (I think) bolts CAREFULLY around the top of the tank - the cover forms part of the fuel pump hanger and basically you remove it as one assembly from the tank, being careful not to bend the float for the fuel gauge.
Remove old pump and solder electrics for the new pump, fit new pump to the hanger and do the reverse of the above.
You could do with a new O ring, unless you want to be a pikey and cut about a centimeter out of the existing one and resealing it (they stretch you see)
Take fuel pump fuse out and crank car over - it'll try to start but wont - keep going for about 10 seconds. Remove the fuel cap.
Disconnect the battery
Lift up your boot carpet and you'll see an access hatch cover with 4 bolts holding it on. Remove that being careful not to snap the bolts.
Under that will be the top of the tank with access hatch visible. You need to prise off the two fuel hoses noting which way round they go, and secure them so that they don't slip down the back of the tank. You'll get some fuel gush out, don't worry about that.
Then, undo all 8 (I think) bolts CAREFULLY around the top of the tank - the cover forms part of the fuel pump hanger and basically you remove it as one assembly from the tank, being careful not to bend the float for the fuel gauge.
Remove old pump and solder electrics for the new pump, fit new pump to the hanger and do the reverse of the above.
You could do with a new O ring, unless you want to be a pikey and cut about a centimeter out of the existing one and resealing it (they stretch you see)
One thing I would reccomend before you take off the covers for the tank is to hover all the crap off the top first, then go over it with some kind of wet wipe to remove all the muck that's left. Take a small flatblade screwdriver as well, and go round the inside edge of the lip between the cover and the tank, then hoover all the junk out of there that you loosen. This will stop anything getting in to the tank.
Also, when you put the tank hanger back in, make sure the floater for the petrol guage goes on the outside of the small metal sub-wall that the pump goes inside. I didn't and my guage only went up halfway when the tank was full, because the floater was hitting the wall and not going any further.
Also, when you put the tank hanger back in, make sure the floater for the petrol guage goes on the outside of the small metal sub-wall that the pump goes inside. I didn't and my guage only went up halfway when the tank was full, because the floater was hitting the wall and not going any further.
yea, i made sure the floater would fit. the racing pump had wasn't a "dirrect fit", but i cut pieces to make it fit right. my friend dropped screws in teh tank several times... i had to fish it out with my hand. 
no hand party that night!!
o yea, i want to change the fuel filter, but i cant find a skyline filter. i was told to use a Z32 by my friend who drives a 180.
no hand party that night!!
o yea, i want to change the fuel filter, but i cant find a skyline filter. i was told to use a Z32 by my friend who drives a 180.
Why? If you run out of fuel using a 255lphr pump I'll eat my handsok... how do i set up a twin pump setup for MORE fuel?
Should be fine to use a Z32 one, or even a CA18DET one (albeit it might be a touch smaller). Z32 FTW
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