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Hi everyone,

Quick question about the fuel tank. I've had my 350gt for about a month now and been driving it for a couple of weeks. I've driven it on a tank of standard 95 RON and wanted to fill it up with premium unleaded. I drove it as low as I could, which was until the fuel warning came up on the computer screen then I coaxed it to a petrol station and filled up.

However, I was surprised that it only took 56.24 litres of fuel to fill her up. Now I was under the impression it has an 80 litre tank. Am I completely wrong on this? If so does anyone know how large the tank on a jap 350gt actually is?

So far I've gotten 360 miles on a tank from my last run, I take it that is about standard for these cars?
 

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Tank holds 76 lt 16.7 gal so 350mls works out to about 21mpg sounds about right to me.
 

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I think the most I've put into mine was around 65 liters. At that point, I was already driving a good bit with the low fuel light on. I didn't want to push the car any further as I was afraid of getting stranded somewhere. I wish I got 360 to tank, but I'm around 300-315 miles a tank so far. My engine is not OEM though and its supercharged so that has something to do with it as well. Also, that's with running 98-99 RON.
 

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Hi everyone,

Quick question about the fuel tank. I've had my 350gt for about a month now and been driving it for a couple of weeks. I've driven it on a tank of standard 95 RON and wanted to fill it up with premium unleaded. I drove it as low as I could, which was until the fuel warning came up on the computer screen then I coaxed it to a petrol station and filled up.

However, I was surprised that it only took 56.24 litres of fuel to fill her up. Now I was under the impression it has an 80 litre tank. Am I completely wrong on this? If so does anyone know how large the tank on a jap 350gt actually is?

So far I've gotten 360 miles on a tank from my last run, I take it that is about standard for these cars?

the reason is because your fuel senders are knackered , common prob and on zeds

your gauge shows less than you have

when you brim the tank bet your needle doesnt go above the F ( working correctly )


its luck of draw you get the issue or you dont

you need

2x new or rings
1x drivers side level sender ( comes seperate to the pump )
1x passenger side level sender



the clean is rubbish works for a month , you need new senders and o rings job done you can spend hours on google about it

do not remove your current tank covers with original o rings in they grow 2x times in size .

only open to change senders and make sure you have new o rings
 

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Blitz is right. It's a common problem for our cars. I did the cleaning method and that worked for me, but if the parts are cheap enough it is probably worth doing the change anyway. The work involved, although not that difficult, may be more worthwhile if you are changing the parts as well. Depending on your budget, you could clean, but you'd have to be careful with the o-rings expanding as Blitz explained.
 

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the parts are cheap , the new senders have better contacts , nissan addressed the issue years ago so the new senders is a 100 % fix

tbh majority of nissan dealers are a tad clueless they try and sell you pump and sender for drivers side , you can buy the pump sender seperate from the pump , i bought all mine off Ewen at clarkmotorsport just give him the VIN no they sell all genuine nissan parts at cheap prices used him for years for both the zeds and the GT which i have had 8 yrs now

the clean is a temp fix and doesnt work any alot of cases , even if you do the clean make sure you have new O rings

we worked out
drivers side is E - 1/2
passenger side 1/2 - F

working correctly when you brim tank the needle goes just above the F .

350GT on a run you see approx 400 miles a tank if cruising at around 70-75

i have a new issue on mine like a humming tizz only heard sitiing in drivers seat ,
seems the noise is from the fuel lines when you trace it with listening sticks it would appear to be fuel damper failure they have a tendancy to fail so i need to swop that out at some point they get noisey you get like a humming vibration very weird
 

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'NISMO' 350GT
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I generally drive mine too and from work, and doing this every day, I only get 19mpg, but include any sort of run and she will do 26mpg happily. Big engines with autos stuck in traffic does not make for good consumption! lol
 

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I generally drive mine too and from work, and doing this every day, I only get 19mpg, but include any sort of run and she will do 26mpg happily. Big engines with autos stuck in traffic does not make for good consumption! lol
the problem isnt mpg its your gauge isnt working properly
typically i get 200 miles to half a tank round town in my 6spd manual and 400 plus on a run at 70 / 75

bascically you are refilling when you still have about 20 litres left ..

like auto JDM 350z auto 350GTs will be heavy round town on fuel but you should see mid 20s if you dont just boot it about all the time on a run you should see 380 miles


best thing you can do with the GT auto is fit the paddle shift kit from the states for the 350z its plug and play no wiring needed happy V35 has had a paddle kit for years and it brings the car to life more but they are no slouch anyway the autos like all VQ35 engines you need to learn how to drive them and use its power and torque band not just thrash them to red line


engine grounding kits are important on GTs same as zeds
The engine earthing is poor i made my own with 10mm blue tri rated earth cable you daisy chain and end up with one lead to body and one lead to neg battery terminal , sorts out alot of the rough idle issues you get brighter lights and a louder stereo

for Autos
add a extra cable to the autobox housing this makes the gear changes faster especially in tiptronic
 

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'NISMO' 350GT
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best thing you can do with the GT auto is fit the paddle shift kit from the states for the 350z its plug and play no wiring needed happy V35 has had a paddle kit for years and it brings the car to life more but they are no slouch anyway the autos like all VQ35 engines you need to learn how to drive them and use its power and torque band not just thrash them to red line
I have the paddle shift on mine, but around town I tend to use it in fully auto - I'm lazy like that. I am still learning the engine, and its best mode to drive in. There doesn't seem a lot of difference between norml and power for the box setting as far as mpg goes, although she's definitely livelier in power. If I find it is better in paddle, and power then that is how I will drive.
How do others drive? What settings do you find best?

Like I said, on runs, she will do 26/7 mpg, but always less than that around town. Probably not helped by having the UpRev to 300bhp lol
 

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The VQ usually gets better MPG with Up rev, both the Z and the GT can have pretty heavy consumption, some see as little as 17mpg and some see 30+, I always found that the ECU runs things decidedly on the rich side, and I don't think the std map is very good IMO.
 

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My supercharged GT is running uprev as well. I don't always drive conservative so I get around 300-310 tank. With the information you guys have provided in this forum I may look into replacing the fuel sensor. I've cleaned them and it seems to me everything is good to go. Considering that the most fuel I've ever put in is around 65L, maybe a look at the fuel sensor would be good in my case. That should give me another 35-50 miles then.

Another question, if the sensor is not working properly...would that affect the when low fuel light would come on? I imagine it would. Thanks.
 

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Yes the sensor is just the usual wire coil and pick up, so the wire does get worn and/or corroded so can read incorrectly, its probably worth removing and carefully cleaning, I did mine with some 1500 wet n dry, but its was still not very accurate.

I think you will find that the reserve is a good 10lt so 65lt is not far out.
 

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Sounds good. Just have to make time to work on it again. Maybe in the coming months or so I suppose.

Another question for thought that has to do with compression ratio.

So, if someone was going to go with a turbo set-up I've been informed that you would want a lower compression ratio. From what I understand, our cars have a 10:3 compression ratio. With a turbo, there are options to go with pistons to support lower ratios around 8:5 and 8:8. Since I decided to go with a supercharged set-up on my built engine I went for a 10:1 compression ratio.

Since a 10:1 ratio, doesn't seem to be that far off from a 10:3 standard compression ratio, would it still affect fuel mileage?
 

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Compression ratio is not really a factor that will directly affect fuel consumption as such, the compression ratio is formulated to gain the best power from the fuel available, IE octane/knock rating.
In fact an old design single cylinder engine is used to test fuels knock rating at the refinery.
With an N/A engine you need the higher compression to gain the best power while still retaining low enough compression to not get knock, so with the FI option you already have a pre compressed charge, hence you have a lower compression ration.

Fuel consumption is far more influenced by volume/cc, valve timing and ignition timing than just compression.
 

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Thanks for the info Tricky. For some reason, I thought if the compression was lower, it would take more fuel to equal the amount of air that is in the chamber. Therefore, needed more fuel as well.

Another question...so, say someone was getting their VQ35DE engine built and wanted to build it with the intention of getting a turbo. I would think the engine would have to be built with lower compression in mind. Now, lets say that person did not have the money to the buy the turbo at that time. How would the car run naturally aspirated with a lower compression of course with remapping and such but not turbo at the moment?
 

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Ahh right, I thought we where talking FI, but you are confusing compression ratio with air flow, on an N/A engine the swept volume initially decides the amount of air entering the engine, add to this valve timing and exhaust design and you can actually get more air into the engine, and its this that decides the amount of fuel that gets added via the injectors.
Compression ratio can only be increased to the point where the fuel octane used allows, without det/knock, a lower compression motor will not necessarily burn any more or less fuel than a high compression motor all else being equal, as the swept volume is the same, however if you lower the compression ratio of you motor I preparation for fitting a turbo, but don't fit the turbo, then the std map will likely be too rich, so yes it will need a remap.
 
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