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Just thought i would share my pain removing a ball joint for the hicas on my r33 gtst. What a pain in the chuff! ive read loads about how to do this including heat, pressing them out and all forms of attack.
In the end i ground the ball joint end off and the flange allowing it out either way and drove it through the hub with a socket and a big hammer, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3 hours later and its out. I have ordered a new one from Nissan at £51.47 and i will be reassembling it soon.
As i didnt have the time to take the hub off or the access to the tools to press it out i kind of did it the low tech way.
So just for anyone with the same pain heres what i did, however from what ive read you run the risk of cracking the hub. Saying that mines cast, not alloy so maybe thats a GTR thing?
1) Ground the balljoint back flat to the hub removing the ball joint itself and the flange (outer edge, not towards the damper)
2) Drove a punch right throught the middle to remove the end cap allowing the full guts of the balljoint to be removed leaving the casing
3) 7/8 socket + 3 inch entension (1/4 drive) used as a drift to drive the casing about 5mm back
4) Removed the extension and seated the socket in the recess created by the movement and abit of brute force and a good 10-15 whacks and it was free.
I know this isnt the best way to do the job but i was at the point where if i had cracked the hub i didnt care, i was wet, cold and grumpy. Between points 2 & 3 i soaked in penerating fluid and left for 2 hours.
i know these have to be tight but damn these are hard to get out, everything i read about them is painful. thought i would share my experiences anyway. I have been looking at the total hicas removal kit from driftworks because to be honest looking at the system it looks like there is alot of points of wear where play could be introduced. :boogy:
In the end i ground the ball joint end off and the flange allowing it out either way and drove it through the hub with a socket and a big hammer, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3 hours later and its out. I have ordered a new one from Nissan at £51.47 and i will be reassembling it soon.
As i didnt have the time to take the hub off or the access to the tools to press it out i kind of did it the low tech way.
So just for anyone with the same pain heres what i did, however from what ive read you run the risk of cracking the hub. Saying that mines cast, not alloy so maybe thats a GTR thing?
1) Ground the balljoint back flat to the hub removing the ball joint itself and the flange (outer edge, not towards the damper)
2) Drove a punch right throught the middle to remove the end cap allowing the full guts of the balljoint to be removed leaving the casing
3) 7/8 socket + 3 inch entension (1/4 drive) used as a drift to drive the casing about 5mm back
4) Removed the extension and seated the socket in the recess created by the movement and abit of brute force and a good 10-15 whacks and it was free.
I know this isnt the best way to do the job but i was at the point where if i had cracked the hub i didnt care, i was wet, cold and grumpy. Between points 2 & 3 i soaked in penerating fluid and left for 2 hours.
i know these have to be tight but damn these are hard to get out, everything i read about them is painful. thought i would share my experiences anyway. I have been looking at the total hicas removal kit from driftworks because to be honest looking at the system it looks like there is alot of points of wear where play could be introduced. :boogy: