Skyline Owners Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okey great section!, I got a few questions......:)

When I want to remove/lock the hicas on my HCR32 How do I do that?
Just install a lockbar or do I need to do more?

And also would like like to know what good the std LSD on the hcr32 is to begin with or do I need to go for a aftermarket right away.

And a few tips on other suspension upgrades I already have Tein Flex coillovers and got somme adjusteble front uperarms comming in cause I needed other ones for my MOT, [the bushes where not good anymore].

Thanks!
 

·
Space Filler
Joined
·
3,218 Posts
There's 2 ways to do away with the HICAS. You can go with Tomei kit which is a small box you wire into the HICAS ecu, and then you fit two locking rings onto the HICAS arms to stop any movement. The second method, and probably the best solution for a drift car is the locking bar you mentioned, as you remove the whole HICAS rack when you're fitting that.

For suspension upgrades, Driftworks have a pretty decent setup package for sale in their store which has an assortment of camber/toe control pieces. Think it's about 300 odd quid for the whole thing. They also sell upgraded bushes there as well.
 

·
Seasoned Member
Joined
·
4,504 Posts
And also would like like to know what good the std LSD on the hcr32 is to begin with or do I need to go for a aftermarket right away.
Fine in the wet, Not so good in the dry :disappointed: , Providing the R32 comes with a viscous diff :confused:

Hope that helps
 

·
DWYB.CO.UK
Joined
·
799 Posts
Okey great section!, I got a few questions......:)

When I want to remove/lock the hicas on my HCR32 How do I do that?
Just install a lockbar or do I need to do more?

And also would like like to know what good the std LSD on the hcr32 is to begin with or do I need to go for a aftermarket right away.

And a few tips on other suspension upgrades I already have Tein Flex coillovers and got somme adjusteble front uperarms comming in cause I needed other ones for my MOT, [the bushes where not good anymore].

Thanks!
As long as your standard diff is not completely busted it will be fine for learning basics - if it is it will just spin one wheel:)

once you have maxed potential of standard diff - a welded diff is the best solution for the money

if you really want to be fancy you can get a 2way Nismo/ Cusco/ Kaaz etc after market LSD

this car won the D1GB final last yr with a welded diff so...



You suspension set up sounds fine for starting - save your cash for tyres and track time ;)
 

·
tdi power
Joined
·
13,297 Posts
if you want a lock out bar and adjustable suspention parts get them from japspeed in the traders section as paul normally has it all in stock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
983 Posts
is it ok to just cap the hydraulic pipes then? i read somewhere it would overheat the pump?

i thought the only way to do it was to take the vanes out of the pump or run the hydraulic fluid through an oil filter?

if you can just cap the lines i'll get mine fitted!
 

·
Dandy Highwayman
Joined
·
1,314 Posts
there is a cheaper third way for r32s: slot some large "repair" washers - pull back the rubber boots on each end of the hicas rack and slot the washers between the end of the hicas rack and the big squarish block on the inner tie rod end, you need about 3-4mm at each end, I needed 2 washers in each side (you can unscrew the tie rod a bit to get the washers in and then tighten back up to hold them in place) - if you are feeling safe then you can weld the washers in place - then just unplug the hicas solenoid in the engine bay and ignore the HICAS waring light. - bosh hicas lock for £1 + the price of checking the tracking afterwards

i reckon as long as the hicas solenoid is still fitted in the engine bay and its uplugged the PAS fluid will just circulate as normal and so wont over heat you PAS pump

frankly pulling all the hoses out and re routing the PAS hoses to bypass the solenoid and pulling the vanes out the back of the pump - seems llike way too much hassle :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
is it ok to just cap the hydraulic pipes then? i read somewhere it would overheat the pump?

i thought the only way to do it was to take the vanes out of the pump or run the hydraulic fluid through an oil filter?

if you can just cap the lines i'll get mine fitted!
I've recently been helping Fourtoes remove the HICAS from his R32 GTR (same system as GTS I believe).

Initially we looped the lines at the rear of the car with a custom made hydraulic hose (don't use Pirtek - far too expensive...) so at least the pump would be pumping the fluid round.
Having then taken the intake plenum off to do anothr job, we decided to ditch the whole system from front to back. We took off the P/S pump, removed the vanes from the rear impeller, blocked the rear outlet on the rear of the pump and the return hose to the fluid pot. Then we removed the HICAS solenoid gear from the drivers side chassis leg in the engine bay, and finally ripped out the P/S fluid lines from the pump to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the back of the car.
It's a much more complete solution if you can be arsed, and saves a good chunk of weight.
As a minimum though, I would loop the lines together at the back of the car rather than just capping them.

HTH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
There's a debate about where the HICAS is worth keeping or not (do a search for the various views), but many GTR owners bin it.
We ditched it because we felt the pros outweighed the cons. One of the main ones being that people have reported under certain circumstances that the HICAS can kick the back end out at the wrong time which can mean you can loose the back end.

The other reason was to ditch all the complexity and weight associated with it, and as a bonus you get slightly better access to the driver's side of the engine as you loose the HICAS solenoid. We can also now run the oil cooler lines through a hole left in the front panel there the HICAS oil cooler used to be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
blocking off the HICAS pipes wont really have too much effect on the pump, nothing to really worry about, i wouldnt put a loop in there as the pressures are so high in the system. If you want ot do it properly take the veins out the back of the pump, and remove the HICAS solenoid thing in the engine bay by the oil filer.. this does require having the engine out though, but you can get rid of all the HICAS related pipes, and genrally tidy the engine bay up of all the unused pipes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
i wouldnt put a loop in there as the pressures are so high in the system.
When we did this on Fourtoes GTR he had a pipe made up by Pirtek - using pipe rated for the hydraulics on quarry plant (which has a SWP of something like 10,000 psi I think!). That's probably why it cost £70 for a foot of hose and two end fittings.

If you want ot do it properly take the veins out the back of the pump, and remove the HICAS solenoid thing in the engine bay by the oil filer.. this does require having the engine out though, but you can get rid of all the HICAS related pipes, and genrally tidy the engine bay up of all the unused pipes
That's exactly what we did after deciding that if you're going to do something, you may as well do it right. And we didn't remove the engine.
You can remove all the pipe work & HICAS solenoid as long as you take the inlet plenum off. It's a complete arse of a job on the GTR as we couldn't see how get to some of the bolts underneath without removing the starter motor and front prop. I guess it's still (just) easier than removing the engine though! It may be easier on the GTS as the inlet system is different and you don't have to contend with the front drive system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
hmmm yes true mate, i remember looking at it and thinking 'its going to be easier to take the engine out lol..

i found that the pipes were leaking a bit on the power steering pump cooler loop (you know the loop that goes around the radiator) and over the years had made a terrible mess... the engine bay looks so much better without all the shite in it :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Yeah, it makes quite a difference getting rid of all that shite!

As an added bonus, by removing all the HICAS pipework, we now have a convenient hole (where the two pipes to the HICAS power steering cooler used to pass through the front panel) to pass the pipes to the ARC oil cooler :cheers:
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top