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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
May have been covered before, but here is a run down of the major stages to change your spark plugs. You'll need a socket set (8mm-14mm sockets inc sparkplug socket), torx bits (or alan keys), screwdriver, long nose pliers and some electrical tape.

1. Remove throttle body inlet pipe (thanks to ahapatridge)
2. Remove Pipe as pictured in pic. 2
3. Remove ignition amplifier as pictured, held in with 4 bolts.
4. Remove spark plug cover - held on with torks screws, 6 in total

You should now be able to see the coil packs, plugged in, so work on one at a time.

5. Unplug the first coilpack, and pull the rubber head up and out to expose the spark plug. Should make a nice "pop" sound See pic 5.

6. Take this opportunity to "wrap" the coilpacks with electrical tape while they are out. It helps prevent the spark escaping up the side of the housing and causing misfire. See pic 6.

7. Remove the first spark plug with the appropriate socket size (normally 2 sizes - skyline plugs are the smaller one in my set) Examine, and pull a strange face as if to show you actually know what you're looking at! It will more often than not be brown or black or burnt, but basically its not doing its job properly. See pic 7, these were mine i took out.

8. Place your new shiny spark plug into the socket and tighten. IMPORTANT: If the spark plug feels like it is not going in properly, STOP. undo slightly so that it can find the thread, then slowly retighten. They are very fragile and easy to re-thread (not good and very expensive to fix).
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE PLUGS, don't forget you are using a torque wrench to put them back in, so a little effort to you will transpire as a lot through the wrench. Tighten "sufficiently". See Pic 8 of me being very cautious.....

9. Place your newly wrapped coilpack back over the plug tightly, and plug in. Thats 1 done, only another 5 to go! Take your time doing each one, and enjoy the experience.

10. Replace pipe work in reverse order as above, check everything is tight, that you have no left over screws (or coil packs!) cross your fingers and start your engine!
 

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Scotland Area Rep Aberdeenshire
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and if you cut a bit off the back of the plastic cover that covers the coil pack you can pull it off without removing air inlet pipe work also find it better to remove full coil pack you have two three and three
 

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Pinballer Hero
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591 Posts
....lower the plug in with long nose pliers or plug hose if your spark plug socket does not "grip " the plug, dont just drop the plug in there because you can easily damage electrode......
 

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That is a cracking post espesially when mine are due a change. Can somebody explain what are the tell tale signs that say its time to change my plugs or coil packs?
 

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Pinballer Hero
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591 Posts
Also, worth getting vacuum cleaner or compressed air out to suck/blow out any sediment or dirt before removing a plug from a cylinder, reduces risk of droppin anything in there when plug is out... sometimes the paint flakes off the coil packs when you remove them.
 

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You can use a length of small diameter plastic pipe pushed onto the plug to lower it in and get it started in the thread plus then there is no chance of cross threading. Air pipe from a shop that sells fish tank supplies
 

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Salad Dodger
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2,345 Posts
Mark Griffiths said:
which thread are you reading? We're talking bout plugs and coil packs, far from being injectors. :doh:
Err, he's asking a question - hence the ?

He wants to know if there is a similar thread to this one where the
subject is replacing the injectors.
 

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I changed my plugs today to NGK iridiums(thanks for recommends).
Last weekend driving home from trackday I started to feel some misfiring under acceleration. I took the old plugs out at home and they look'd like total crap.

I also cleaned the coilpack contacts and the difference is amazing! Car pulls now way more harder than it did before.
 

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just a note..
i did mine a couple of weeks ago and its not necessary to remove the pipe over the coil pack cover.. simply undo the two securing bolts located above the turbo and theres enough movement to slide the coil pack cover and coil amp (spec 1's) forward and out.
 

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Great thread truely desrving ov the sticky

showa asked could someone say what the tell tale signs are i would like to now this too please Anyone ??? Thanks
 

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For those doing this in cold weather (spec II)...

I was up till 2am this morning trying to refit the air inlet pipe (the big one over the coilpack cover). I just couldnt feed the pipe back into the rubber seal!

What I did was remove the rubber bit, hold it infront of a fan heater for 20 secs and squashed it around for a bit to warm it up. It went on straight away!

Also, be carefull as when forcing the pipe back in, the rubber seal can flake off...

Mark
 

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Daemon your post is really informative.I looked to your tips when I was changing my spark plugs and that worked out.Before this I have never changed spark plug by myself.I always go to mechanic for that.But now no need for that.
 
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