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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

There's a lot of newbies around and in an attempt to make the even simple tasks like this more palettable I've made a short tutorial.

This is a guide on how to replace the stock wheel on a Spec2 GTS-T with Airbag and HICAS, with an aftermarket 6-bolt wheel, and a HKB ON-203 Boss Kit.


What you will need:
  • 19mm spanner
  • 19mm 1/2" deep socket
  • Long armed ratchet or a breaker bar in 1/2"
  • HKB ON-203 Boss kit (About £85 new)
  • Aftermarket Wheel of your choice (I chose a 350mm deep dish OMP wheel)
  • Electrical Tape
  • Possibly a helper if you are weak in the arms
  • About 90mins free time tops taking your time

Step 1:
Get your new wheel and HKB Boss kit and make sure everything is there, you should get a little mini loom with the nissan horn plug on it that goes to a spade terminal, and you should also get a fancy resistor with two pins on it, to connect to your airbag connector to stop the light coming on. They also quite handily give you the tool to get the stock airbag out with, handy, as this is somethign large like a T55 Torx with a security bit in the middle of it, not everyone will have one of those.






Step 2:
Get in your car, look at your stock wheel, ugly isnt it.. On both sides of the wheel there are little covers that cover the large Torx bolts that hold the airbag in the front of the wheel. Pop the covers off and you'll see them




User the supplied tool to undo these. They are incredibly tight, and are lock-tight'd in there too. I had to use a large 19mm spammer to hook over the end of the tool to give me more leverage


Do this to both sides and the airbag will be loose. Dont pull it straight off, its connected




Step 3:
Tilt the airbag forward, the connector to it is at the bottom. The white catch is on the very bottom of the connector, push the catch in and unclip the plug. The airbag is now free and can be put to one side. Sell it on eBay or something, they're worth money.










Step 4:
Take a look at the wiring inside the wheel now. You'kk see the black horn connector is clipped into the backing of the wheel. Unclip it and unplug the connector.






Step 5:
With the wiring unplugged and clear it's now time to remove the wheel itself. Make sure your wheel is centered and your road wheels are straight. Grab a large armed ratchet or breaker bar, stick the deep 19mm socket on it (I chose a quality six point for this, as the nut really isnt too thick, the last thing i wanted was to slip off of it and start rounding the flats off of it. Stick socket on the big centre nut in the middle, grab wheel with one hand and hang off the other end of the breaker bar with your other hand. As I say, you might want to get someon else to hold the wheel if you have troubles here. I was on my own, and struggled, but got there eventually. Use leverage to your advantage. It's on tight...


Leave the nut on the threads a few turns, and then pull sharply back on the wheel towards you, it will break loose from the splines, but wont smack you on the nose because you left the nut on, right? Good. Undo the nut and take the wheel off.



Step 6:
Now you'll just be left with the clock spring/squib/horn wheel whatever you want to call it, they're all the same thing. That yellow round bit. Dont touch it, dont move it.


Get your new boss and line up where it says "TOP ^" on the boss to roughly the top of the clock spring, you've got it in the right place when the hole cutout on the left side of the boss fits straight over the black pokey out bit on the clock spring






Step 7:
The white airbag connector now needs the resistor inserted into it to fool the ECU into thinking there's an airbag attached. Grab the resistor from the HKB kit.


I noticed they didn't slide into the connector all the way, this was fine, but meant the two contacts could touch, this would never be good. So I took some electrical tape and made it a bit more secure.


Job done.




Step 8:
Grab the horn "mini loom" from the HKB kit. It comes with a nissan horn connector on it so its just plug and play, really nicely done. Saved wiring onto the old wiring etc..




Feed both the newly resitor'd airbag connector, and the horn wiring into the right hand side of the new boss.


Trail your horn connections out, see what terminal you need to wire to get the horn to work. Mine was as shown below, all wheels will have different switches and such in them, so just test it.




Step 9:
Put the outer cowling/dressing on the new boss, from the HKB kit




Step 10:
Make the horn wiring final, push the connector fully on and bend the end of it towards the wheel, it will catch the side if it remained straight. A right angle connector here would have been a better choice from HKB...




Step 11:
Not many pictures of lining the wheel up etc as you'll defintilye need both hands. Make sure no wiring is caught between the wheel and the boss, dont cross thread anythign, and do it all up super tight. you'll end up withs omething that looks like this :)






Any questions just ask.
Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is it a removable quick release system?
This isn't. But a snap-off/quick release boss can be used, or you can use this boss and simply add on a quick release hub adaptor to it. You just bolt the quick release to the boss shown here, and then bolt your wheel to the other side of the quick release. this tutorial would still be correct for the most part if doing this.

Great write up :)
Cheers mate

Don't forget to disconnect the battery :p
Not strictly necessary for this, as you're not plugging the airbag back in. But if we're going by the book, yes disconnect the battery.

Thanks for that mate. Really helpful information.
No worries.

As an update to this tutorial, there is a mistake in it. Courtesy of the HKB factory.. The following image:



... Is wrong.

The rectangular plate that is screwed to the back side of the boss itself is upside down, it comes like this from the factory. It's wrong. You can see in that pic that the semi circular "tab" at the bottom is butted up against the angle sensor. This is bad, if you fit it like this, you will get a clicking noise as you turn the wheel, and the steering will be very heavy and lumpy.

On the back of the boss there are two small phillips heads set screws. Undo these, flip the rectangular plate up the other way (so the tab is pointing to the top of the boss, not the bottom) and screw it back on. Then refit the boss to the steering column and do the centre nut up again.

Dave
 

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Hi I just realise I have a hkb on -204 kit. Will it be the same? And can u reupload pics ? Thanks

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Erm ok but hopefully OP will Re upload pics. Trying to do it myself... :/

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Discussion Starter #10
My web host kindly nuked my directory structure due to a disagreement. I should have the pics still somewhere, stored. But it'll take me a little while as I've just bought my new server.

What did you need help on?
 

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Pictures so I can go through it myself without paying someone to do it hopefully :)

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Woooo thanks ;p will look into this! Hopefully the images will stay forever~ for others of course ...

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Anyone know if I can use a gtr clock spring on a gts? Broke my clock spring wire damn it !!!!

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Is the wheel closer to you compared to the original? I bought a quick release, still looking for a wheel like yours ( if not the exact same :bigthumb:) but im afraid the wheel might get to close to me if i take a deep dish. (dont like the flat ones eighter, just very keen on the dishy ones).

I always drive my seat at the very end of the slide for my legs. I'm 1.86m

Your thoughts.... ??
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi, its probably a small amount closer, but in all honestly I sit quite far back and quite reclined anyway, so I've never once thought "oh this is too close".

Having a quick release will of course bring it out further though, as its an extra part compared to this how to.
 
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