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Discussion Starter #1
MY car is not running how it should, and i believe that it is to do with the fuel mixture (as mentioned by a skyline specialist i had the car mapped with last week), i have tried numerous 'solutions' to fix the problem, but still no joy.

Will i have to get the car remapped to get it fixed, or if i take it to a garage will they be able to sort it out without it costing me a fortune!!

Also, will be taking the car to the japshow this weekend, so if there are any exeprts going that think they will be able to fix the problem, then i will be very grateful.

So far, have replaced the lambda sensor, checked for leaks and split hoses and also cleaned the ICV, i guess resetting the ECU will be next, but am not that great with engines.

Saintsman
 

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When you say you had the car mapped, do you have an Apexi POwer Fc or SAFC?

I assume you have an SAFC or similar, as you are talking abouty resetting teh ECU, this would not really have much of a differnece.

Your mapping should have taken care of running rich....
 

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i would get a vems air/fuel gauge then you can see if it is the fuel mix.
maybe the cambelt has jumped tooth ?
or could be a engine mechnical problem and not the electronics.
i wouldent be giving the engine loads of ragging why its not running right asits a plan for disaster.
i would recomend you 1st check the valve timming, and check for boost leaks if all is well there, go to a rolling road to see if it is running rich or lean then if thats ok i would compression test to check for low compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
have you checked the lambda sensor is actually communicating with the ECU?, do you actually know if it is running rich or lean?
I don't know how to check if the new snesor is communicating with the ecu, and i believe the car is running rich.

The car did not have these problems before it had the greddy ultimate fitted, but started after the car was mapped.

Was told that while the car was being mapped, there didn't seem to have a correct signal coming from the lambda sensor and wasn't showing what he expected to see on the computer whilst mapping (i.e. the needele wasn't 'swinging' properly when he blipped the throttle) Afterwards, when i had the problems went back to see him 5 mins later, told me it could be the lamda sensor that needed sorting or could be an air leak somewhere, but wasn't too sure, so to stop it stalling he upped the idle from about 650 rpm to about 850/900 rpm.

I am not expert, so sorry for the lehmans term speak above.

edit. and now obviously i have changed a few things (as mentioned in the first post) and still not running properly
 

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I don't know how to check if the new snesor is communicating with the ecu, and i believe the car is running rich.

The car did not have these problems before it had the greddy ultimate fitted, but started after the car was mapped.

Was told that while the car was being mapped, there didn't seem to have a correct signal coming from the lambda sensor and wasn't showing what he expected to see on the computer whilst mapping (i.e. the needele wasn't 'swinging' properly when he blipped the throttle) Afterwards, when i had the problems went back to see him 5 mins later, told me it could be the lamda sensor that needed sorting or could be an air leak somewhere, but wasn't too sure, so to stop it stalling he upped the idle from about 650 rpm to about 850/900 rpm.

I am not expert, so sorry for the lehmans term speak above.

edit. and now obviously i have changed a few things (as mentioned in the first post) and still not running properly
laymans terms is fine

do you have a multimeter?, can you use one to check for voltage?, follow the red rabbit



quote from rebuild thread....


with the ignition timing done my next step is to look at the fuelling.....the car has a wideband fitted now so fuelling is displayed in the cockpit, just checking it at idle told me that this engine was running very rich....as the engine warmed up it went as rich as 10.1:1 and it would net go into closed loop
(more infomation on fuelling in www.max-boost.co.uk)

the first step in this instance is to check the lambda sensors, the two oxygen sensors on the exhaust side provide critical infomation to the ECU for fuelling in "closed loop" operation, these sensors can be checked with a multimeter at tickover....output from the siginal wire on the sensor lead should be in the region of 0.6-0.9 (roughly) if it is alive

both of mine seemed totally dead, no output at all...the logical explaination for this is faulty sensors but it turned out that there was more to this.....

R32 came with 24 pin chip ECU and small lambda sensors with red siginal wires, R33 came with 14 pin chip ECU and larger bosch lambda sensors with black siginal wires

the looms also have slight differences with the lanbda siginal and heater wires


mine has a 32 ECU with 33 sensors so i simply rewired the sensors so that the siginal wire matched up with the ECU side





with these 33 sensors now working on the 32 ECU they were changed for new versions (£60 each from justlambda.co.uk) and run fine going by the output from my wideband

 

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Discussion Starter #14
do not have a multimeter, but might have a friend that does, and will try and get him to have a look.

When i changed the lambda sensor over, it had the same number and colour of wires as the old one, which like i said was running fine before the mapping session, so thought it would be running fine afterwards too.

will try what you said tho, but ringing the garage where i got the mapping done first see what he says as he has first hand knowledge. He was just a little busy earlier.

hopefully will get it sorted soon, hate it when my car is not running correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
By the way, couldn't get hold of a bosch lambda sensor, so got a NGK one from lambda power, where the bloke who sorted me out said that the sensor he sent me was the one that has been sent to other skyline owners without any problems.

Not sure whether any of that makes a difference tho.
 

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well first thing to check is that it has an output....there is a wire that goes from the ignition to the heater in the sensor (three wire versions have heaters fitted to them) and if that is not live then you wont have any output with a new sensor...

ditto with the sensor output wire to ECU...if it has high resistance it gets the wrong siginal...

there are three wires on the sensor

1 ign live
2 ECU output
3.ground
 

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yes and changing it made no difference?

the black is the output to the ECU....when you uncip the plug you will notice that the connector for that wire is a different colour than the other two, make sure both funny colored spade connectors meet up in the plug (laymans terms)
 

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No i mena the conector not the wire....pull the plug apart and there are three spades...one spade is a brass colour, this should meet up with the brass colour conector on the other side of the plug
 
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