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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I’m after an intercooler for my GTS-T & trying to decide whether to get a GTR IC and mod the pipe work to fit the standard configuration or go for an kit from Japspeed.

I’m reading a lot about heat soak being an issue on the Japspeed kits due to the routing of the pipe work that comes with the kit. I’m not sure how much of a problem this would cause, but it’s obviously undesirable. Would not the standard piping suffer from heat soak too or is it to a lesser extent due to it's routing in the engine bay?

Anyone got any comments regarding the heat soak issue. Are the RSP/Apex kits better or worse?

Cheers

Steve
 

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516ATF and RWD......Nutter!!
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Not sure how much of an issue it would be.....any answer would be guess work.
Of course it's not desirable though.....you could always invest in an intercooler spray to help keep the temps down.
 

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... is modifying the driver
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Maybe wrap the piping, not pretty though

I've got a Japspeed FMIC and it gets hot but what effect doing wrapping it would have is anyones guess as the temps inside the pipe may be fine ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Damo @ RSP recommended RSP, Greddy, HKS, Plazmaman or ARC. I'm not sure how their piping is routed though. When I mentioned Japspeed he said "they're OK", but not in a positive way.

My gut feeling is that standard piping would also suffer from heat soak, but perhaps to a lesser degree due to it's routing and it being rubber as opposed to metal perhaps?

I'm unsure as to how much of a real issue this would be: the tuners would know for sure: the rest of us just surmise I guess!

BTW: anyone got issues with thread update emails not being sent? I tried posting a bug report, but apparently I don't have rights :(
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bigchief: that's right, but they don't have stock until the end of the month & I was trying to get in on the March ECU/boost controller/dyno deal they listed on here!
 

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Hi,

Any pipe passing directly above/behind the radiator gets hot. The last mod I did to mine was add a GTR IC with the japspeed kit, and it got pretty damn hot. However, I've put heat shielding around it now and it has made quite a difference. Also bear in mind the air is moving very fast through the pipework. The impact is going to be dependent on your boost level and your (cold) air feed.

If you're going for higher power, then be a bit careful of using pipework with sharp turns in it as I believe someone on here once found an IC with return piping along the original route simply wouldn't flow enough air to make more than about 350 bhp. You might want to just look into this.

Your tuner should be able to advise best but I can say from experience that the GTR IC and japspeed kit (which is good, if a little pricey for what it is) is a great upgrade on a smaller budget. The improved air flow gives immediate torque/power gains, no real increase in lag, and not impossible to fit, if a bit time consuming (for the amateur such as myself :p). I'm still running stock ECU and boost (HKS boost controller). Plus the GTR IC is good for loads of BHP.

If you've got the bucks and/ or skills, you really want to go straight for a GTR style plenum and remove the pipework issue completely.

Hope this helps, good luck.
 

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tdi power
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well why not get a gtr intercooler, japspeed pipework kit and do a front entry inlet mod
 

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The intercooler piping running through the engine bay will always get warmer than the piping using the std pipes as its not in the engine bay as long.

Plus the piping running under the car back to the std pipes has cool air flowing under the car blowing on it.

But all this doesn't really matter as the difference is really minimal, the most important thing by a long shot is the intercooler itself.

We all know the ARC, Greddy, HKS coolers are far superior to most and also run their pipe work back under to the standard hoses, but these kits are very expensive.

A standard GTR cooler is a very good bit of kit and matched with the Japspeed piping you really can't go wrong for the price.

If you really are worried about making sure your getting maximum cooling then a water/methanol injection kit is something to look at.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Hi,
If you've got the bucks and/ or skills, you really want to go straight for a GTR style plenum and remove the pipework issue completely.
How does this work?

One thing has just occured to me - when the car is on the dyno how can the affect the IC has be measured, as there's no air flowing through it?
 

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.....you could always invest in an intercooler spray to help keep the temps down.[/QUOTE]
or make your own.. small tank in boot with a wiper pump, hose to fmic and a grease gun nipple, should cost you f-all just a bit of effort..
I don't think u'l need to worry bout heat an awful lot cos the intercooler pulls the temp down anyway and you'd need to be doin some serious driving to notice a lot of loss in power due to heat.
 

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... is modifying the driver
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One thing has just occured to me - when the car is on the dyno how can the affect the IC has be measured, as there's no air flowing through it?
If the dyno run is done property a massive fan is placed at the front of the car to simulate the car moving through air
 

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On a dyno an electric fan provides the cold air for the IC.The fan on my previous tuners dyno gave the effect of the car doing 130mph and it was bloody cold in the cell.Cheers.
 

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... is modifying the driver
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.....you could always invest in an intercooler spray to help keep the temps down.
My understanding is that intercooler sprays are only a real benefit on drag cars so the intercooler is cold from a standing start or cars being used in very hot climates (why a fair few australian cars have them), normal fast road \ track use wil keep things cool just by forwards motion and lets face it we get 2 hot days a year if we're lucky
 

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i know i was quoting another post, i read about a guy in aus who made his own IC sprayer, we have no need for em unless drifting in competition etc..
I made my own hose kit.. search intercooler hoses
 
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