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Naz Ali
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Discussion Starter #1
yes another filter thread

before i explain i have a stock rb25det airbox and feed pipe on my rb20e r33

yesterday i was just cleaning engine bay and then quickly had to go my missus up from work
the filter was all wet so thought id leave it out with lid of as i though it cant harm the engine as theres a mesh stopping stones and crap getting in on the intake pipe bottom inside of the stock rb25det airbox as standard if you know what im on about.

so anyway driving and i noticed it sounded very grunty give it a blast and high revs sounded like vtec was kicking in even though i know this is single cam, but the point is im sure it felt a lot quicker or is this just me imagining things then at same time idle felt a bit lumpy but only slightly but wasnt flatspotting when setting of like usual....anyway filters are all back in and its fine now.

so did i imagine the power with it sounding louder or would it have actually been quicker with power gains, for a crappy rb20e its not bad, though not comparable to a gtst which is like a micra to a gtr lol

i was so tempted to run without lid and filter but i know i would damage something especially with no mechanical knowledge that makes it worse as i dont know anything lol
 

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Get a proper induction kit for it bud. Air flow plays a HUGE part in N/A tuning. It's crucial. Take a look at the ARC induction boxes. They are essentially airboxes with two large panel filters in. Running without a filter is not advisable but even getting a high flow panel filter (I have an HKS Hybrid Filter on mine) you'd see gains all over the place for induction sound though a cone/mushroom filter is a must. The only thing is you could end up sucking in warm engine bay air. Add a cold air feed though or box and you'll be golden.
 

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Heck mate, don't run with no filter, the volume of dirty air your engine sucks in will do it serious wear harm.

As a guide a normal paper air filter element will flow just as much as an equivalent K&N on a normally aspirated, but the paper will foul up much much quicker and degrade air flow.

As Spooks says "A good induction kit" will make a hell of a difference, as basically an engine is a mechanical breathing animal, and getting the animal to breath better will make it go better.
Get the air in with as little restriction as possible, and get it out the exhaust with a decent system and the difference can be felt instantly from simple bolt ons.
 

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Naz Ali
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1,503 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
thanks guys i dont like cone filter any more but might do something and get an extra feed from front of bumper to airbox as iv got a spare box to mess around with and get a nice panel filter :)

what would be best tool to cut a hole for feed in stock arbox????

and i thought arc inductions had gone out of business i must have heard wrong
 

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I think ARC are back but limited production? As for cone filter I was the same as you, ended up getting one, noise good, mpg baaaad!

edit: but us of all people care least about mpg surely :D
 

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You are better off getting an performance panel filter - K&N or HKS. Think Conceptua do one too. When using cone filters you end up getting heat soak and this is hard to eliminate unless you get a decent intake system, like an Injen one. I have a big JWT filter on mine and mpg goes through the floor, even with a big heat shield around it. I'm taking it off and getting a panel filter from K&N. Spend the extra bit of cash and get a proper one if you dont want to go down the panel route.
 

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Just recently changed the filter on my RB20DE from a completely clogged (black) random name brand to HKS drop in filter, didn't notice much change honestly.
 
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