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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
What exhaust would suit an r32 gts-t to give a quite rumble and only make noise when driven on?

I was thinking of the hks silent power exhaust. Has anyone used these previously?

(for some reason, the computer at work won't let me view my search results. apologies if this question has been asked before.)
 

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Mate, you cannot have both of it, its either one or the other. You will have noisy exhaust or have no noise at all

My impression under hks silent power exhaust won't give out the noise your looking for even if you step on it.
 

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Oh yes you can.:D

But you need to install one of those variable exhaust flaps. Quite an expensive option if you buy the controller too. I know HKS and Apexi make them. Check out Nengun.

The Silent is not quiet at all, at 98Db's it is the same as most Jap Jasma pipes. Only Kakimoto's, Blitz Nur SR's, race only pipes, etc are louder

It does have the uncanny ability to supress that, loud exhaust, cabin drone, that drives you :crazy:

IMO, the Silent is the best exhaust you can have on a Skyline. Loud enough and lets out that 6 cylinder wail, without making your ears bleed.:grinno:
 

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You want loud? KAKIMOTO!

You want a little more quiet but deep and rumbling? HKS HI POWER SILENT!
 

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I have a HKS Legal/JASMA system, it was fitted in Japan, It is quiet as you like! infact the induction sucking/whistling is way louder, gives a nice suble rumble at idle though,

I think mine is a Legal spec1 or something similar, Havent fitted my Decat yet mind im guessing that will make it a bit louder (and a bit more flame cannon like!)

can recommend if you want quiet!

Cheers
Dazzler

P.s. and it is 4" all the way through (splits into 2x 2.5" pipes into the backbox)
 

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I've got a HKS silent, as mentioned very quiet on motorway, difficult to hear from cabin, but have been told it sounds nice and loud enough when driveby, i'll try and post a vid of drive by later.
 

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The dual mode active muffler fitted to numerous Skyline's does this..look for the "choke flap" inside the right hand tailpipe on these twin pipe back boxes.

The flap is normally closed in the straight through right hand pipe, which does not go through the "silencer" section of the back box. At street speeds exhaust flow is forced by the closed flap in the straight through tailpipe to go via the "silencer" section, but at around 4000 rpm the flap opens, creating a straight through system path.

The link below shows a similar system:

http://www.arvinmeritor.com/products/car/pdfs/toyota_dual_ mode_muffler_ext.pdf

On some cars a switch is fitted to allow the flap to open on demand, I assume this system could be adapted. The actuator is tucked behind the boot trime on the passenger side, though control is excercised from the front end somewhere..

Aitch
 

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Addendum:

I wedged the flap in the straight through tailpipe open first thing this morning before the wife got up..a couple of hours later she popped out to the post box, oh dear!

She got a couple of hundred yards and came back, complaining bitterly that the exhaust had blown, quickly followed by the usual disclaimer that she'd done nothing wrong!

I said that was impossible as I'd checked the system last week ready for MOT, she said I don't care, it's making a noise like one of those stupid things with gold wheels and half a dustbin on the boot lid!

So, it certainly does change the exhaust note, quite a lot, unfortunately as the wife doesn't like it I'll definitely be fitting a switch now. I checked and it cuts in at 4000 rpm, when 12 to 13v is delivered to the actuator, so I'll disconnect that feed and simply fit a switch!

Aitch
 

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Fxxxxg awesome, fitted a switch on the centre console which switches the closure flap in the exhaust on demand. For those with the Nissan dual mode muffler fitted a simple mod provides two exhausts for the price of none.

I can now run with a legit system or a straight through system at the flick of a switch, how cool is that?

Aitch
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
class! sounds like just the thing I could be looking for. Quiet for when you are just driving around and noisy when you want to give it a run!
 

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Note: it requires a switch with at least 6 poles, (3 pairs) as the actuator voltage must be reversed to close the flap. I initially wondered what the hell was going on, my first test was done simply dabbing the wires onto the contacts, which opened the flap beautifully. Removing the wires however did not close it, and I had assumed it was spring operated on the return.

I had to use a switch with 6 poles in 3 pairs, centre common, it's the common pair which connect to the actuator. I then fed a live and neg to one end pair, then linked these feeds diagonally across the back of the switch with short lengths of wire to the pair at the other end. (crossover) This provides two opposite polarity pairs which can then be switched between, with the centre common pair of the toggle switch driving the actuator.

You could of course simply have two switches, I considered waiting until I could a get one each of the miniature green and red push switches from Maplin. It would then simply be a matter of wiring the two up so as to provide reverse voltage, one to open and one to close the flap.

Next job is to wire in some diode's to prevent stray voltages, and allow me to reconnect the original feed into the loop to provide the normal action when the manual switch is set to closed.

I'm sure there's a better way but I had to work with what I had available, when get the time I'll try to work out if a relay could be used to better advantage, or maybe a small changeover switch..come on you leccies, any feedback would be appreciated because this exhaust mod is awesome.

On reflection I never checked to see if the voltage needs to be maintained, or whether it can be disconnected following actuation. I'm thinking of this purely because of my initial confusion, when applying voltage opened it but removing the voltage didn't close it..maybe just a pulse will do, and if so will constant voltage eventually cause harm?

Bugger, more questions than answers!

The fact is though that at the end of the day this provides two totally different exhausts systems. One for shopping and one for bopping..the straight through will not rip your guts out with base pulses but it's as much as I'd ever want and toooo much for the wife!

Beauty is I can be legal or straight through at the flick of a switch!

Aitch
 

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polarity can be switched very easily with 2 5 pin relays, you could even expand on this and make a fully auto system that is driven by a shift light ( i have seen shift light units with 12 volt output for additional lights or buzzer) so it could be programed to open at what ever revs you choose, also a single pole switch in the feed to the relays could turn it off, if it where turned off in the closed position it would stay closed and if it where turned off in the open position it would stay open, how good would that be! it would only take me a few minutes to knock one up, any one want one?
 

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The system on our liner already has the ability to open at predetermined rpm, that's the normal Nissan setup, standard setting is 4000 rpm. But that's a waste of potential, which is why I've done the mod, this way I decide when I want straight through performance and when I don't.

As I said in my earlier post, it does indeed stay in position when switched, it doesn't require constant voltage to hold it. My original effort simply switched it open and left it there, my last attempt though allows me to switch both ways. Today though I bought a sprung toggle switch to replace it, so a simple nudge in either direction will actuate the flap and then drop the voltage.

Aitch
 

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Nisfan, that's my concern at the moment, I do not wish to obstruct the normal operation of the device if the manual switch is set to "closed".

Which is why I'm about to put diode's inline, I hope to do this tomorrow, and that's the end really. With diode's in both original and my switched mod lines I lose absolutely nothing and gain everything. The standard system will still operate with my mod switch set to "closed", (normal) but my switch will overide when switched to "open" mode, best of all world's.

To obtain all the benefits with none of the downside's the diode's are necessary, if only for peace of mind as the question remains as to whether there's a path after the switching action is complete. For me it's simple, diode's cost £1 per 100, (well, nearly) so better safe than sorry.

At the end of the day this mod costs around £8 and an hours work, unbelieveable value, you really have to do this if you have the dual mode muffler, and if you haven't then get one! There is not a better way to spend a few hours and a few punds this weekend, this time you can keep your promise to the wife, it really will only cost a few pounds and take a an hour!

I have a few tips to make it quicker..

To run the cables from the actuator to the centre console where I mounted my switch, the following saves time.

Remove the bolt from the front of the rear seat squab on passenger side. Now find something flexible but robust to use as a cable pull, I used a length of 1/4" plastic tube from a nos sytsem. Feed this from the boot at the left side of the rear seat, by pushing it through the available space it will go under the seat on the passenger side, you will be able to pull it bthrough form inside the rear of the car. Tape the wires (x 4 core) to the tube and pull through to front of rear seat squab. Now feed the tube with wire attached under the carpet and coming up in the void under the centre console.

You are now ready for the install, the rest of which is simple if you follow earlier posts.

Aitch
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Great info there Aitch. I seem to have created a monster!!

Shame I don't have the right type of exhaust on my R32.
 
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