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With my MAF connected the car doesnt idle correctly, revs terribly and frequently stalls.

With it unplugged idling is fine but car is in limp mode.

I ordered a 2ndhand MAF from another member on here and problem persists so i suspect the replacement was a dud. However could it possibly be something else?

And what do you guys reckon to bridging the wires so that effectively the MAF doesnt exist? Its been suggested by a mechanic friend that i do this but im unsure of the implications and which wires i should bridge.
 

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With my MAF connected the car doesnt idle correctly, revs terribly and frequently stalls.

With it unplugged idling is fine but car is in limp mode.

I ordered a 2ndhand MAF from another member on here and problem persists so i suspect the replacement was a dud. However could it possibly be something else?

And what do you guys reckon to bridging the wires so that effectively the MAF doesnt exist? Its been suggested by a mechanic friend that i do this but im unsure of the implications and which wires i should bridge.
There is a voltage test in the manual that can be done on the AFM/MAF with a multimeter which may help you diagnose a faulty unit. Something like 0.8-1.2v at idle on one of the wires I think closest to the engine rather than the wing but don't take my word for it look it up.

A garage with an oscilloscope can test it properly if you are still in doubt.

BTW I take it you got a stock ECU & AFM/MAF ?
 

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Hello JDM..
That does sound like you have a MAF problem, but before you spend too much on geting used MAF's check your wiring.. If you have a 3 wire MAF then check for continuity between pin #27 @ the ECU and pin #3 @ the MAF and pin #26 @ the ECU and pin #2 @ MAF, and pin #49 @ ECU and pin #1. Also do a Diag on the car from the ECU, if the MAF is faulty you should get code 12.
 
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