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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone assist in recommend a decent code reader as the VDC light and engine management light are on ??. Pressing the VDC button makes no odds to the issue. Vehicle is a USA import 350GT Skyline ???:)
 

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Our v35 350 GT's have a 16 pin obd style connector, however the ECU works on the JDM Nissan Consult system.

So you will need an adapter and some software.

Have a look at nissandatascan.com website and go to the Nissan data scan 2 section.

I have successfully connected the obd to laptop set up myself.

I am funnily enough waiting on delivery of this
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1435835236.254963.jpg

Which is a Bluetooth elm327 1.5 connector that works with Nissan data scan for android, once I've tested it I can let u know it definitely works.
 

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That kind of odd, USA import? is it badged Skyline or Infiniti LHD or RHD?
To read the Skyline codes you will need something that reads JOBD, if Infiniti most readers should do it.
 

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That kind of odd, USA import? is it badged Skyline or Infiniti LHD or RHD?
To read the Skyline codes you will need something that reads JOBD, if Infiniti most readers should do it.

Good point made there, as mine was badged as Infiniti but was in fact a right hand drive JDM.
 

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What Pirhana said really, get NDS 2, you can get the free version for Windows.

nissandatascan.com

You'll also need an OBD2 to USB cable.

Used this set up on mine and it works great.

In the meantime you can reset the ECU to clear the lights - if you want to - using the pedal sequence.

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the reply's
The CAR in RHD auto infiniti badged on front with Skyline GT350 on tailgate. From what i can gather i need to download NDS and a generic and OBD2 TO USB CABLE .
 

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Thanks for all the reply's
The CAR in RHD auto infiniti badged on front with Skyline GT350 on tailgate. From what i can gather i need to download NDS and a generic and OBD2 TO USB CABLE .

Spot on, the only reason I'm trying Bluetooth is cuz I'm lazy lol.

Sounds like your car is JDM badged as infinii, this happens a lot.

I removed all infinity badges cuz the car is a Nissan Skyline

That being said I haven't got round to changing the Infiniti steering wheel that was added to mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Sorry i am bad meant to say it is a Jap import anyone had a issue with the VDC system on this vehicle also showing slip (traction control) light at same time. The engine management light come on when vehicle started and remain on . The VDC and slip light come on after approx 5 miles and engine sometimes cuts out.The engine will restart but take a bit of a effort to get going approx 3 - 4 cycles.
 

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VDC and slip along with engine light will come on for most faults, you wont really know until you read the codes.
 

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if its just the slip light / vdc coming on
check the brake fluid level FIRST if low level you need brake pads , do not top up fluid slip and VDC comes up as a safety measure in most cases do the obvious first and check brake fluid level



Slip and VDC also come up with a misfire as well like a plug or coil pack failue ,

pull a coil pack off
most likely the spark plug oil well will be full of oil why the car is misfiring and why VDC/ SLIP is on and car goes into limp why poor re start

it effects cyl 1.3.5
only cure is 2x new cam covers and gaskets , budget on £500.00 to resolve it , very very common on VQs


genuine cam covers x 2 and new gaskets can be obtained from clarkmotorsport cheaper than nissan

WARNING
if you find oil in plug wells and remove a plug
be sure to crank engine over first with plugs out to throw oil out of the bore that will have poured in on top of the piston when you removed the plug , failiure could result in hydrolock and bent valves
 

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Most vdc and slip light issues are owner inflicted


Lowering and not correcting camber big no no .
Wrong size tyres the common one . They must be in manufacturer rolling diameters . And front and rear must not be different

By all means fit big wheels just make sure rolling diameter is same as stock

my 20s are same rolling as stock 18s
245/35 F & 275/30 R

Its not a volkswagon as in a disco dashboards. 350GTs are swiss watch reliable cars like 350zs if u dont mess about with them doing the wrong stuff OR FITTING WRONG / BAD PARTS .

8 yrs i have had my 350GT manual from a fresh import 6k mile car in 07 from yokohama and in 8 yrs no faults i have no problems just 1x £50 coil pack tyres and servicing thats it .... seems everyone has problems yet i have never had anything . best car i have ever owned in 15 yrs of imports , 8 yrs in UK and it has zero rust as well still looks new even 8 yrs later and now having covered 63k miles


in for a new clutch this year though as bite is now high


only 2x real issues on the the 350GT are 2003 / 04 possible door and window motors

which was sorted in 05 , new motors are the later parts ,
you can clean and or buy new brushes for the window motors but door locks are only fixable with new motors
 

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When this happened to me it was related to my electrical system. Car drove fine, but once the all the warning lights came on, I couldn't drive over 5mph. I have a monitoring system that allows me to read all types of data on a small video screen. Turns out that the voltage regulator in my alternator was the issue. At idle all seemed ok, but with a bit of revving the voltage started to climb and all the lights started popping up.
 
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