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Discussion Starter #1
So, after doing some research people are recommending, Silkolene Pro S 10w-50, Pro R 15w-50 or Motul 300v 15w-50, the only ones I found without having to pay shipping from the UK has been the Motul 300v, but its $38.99 for 2L and you need about 4.7~ from what I've read. Whats everyone running and does anyone in Washington State know of anywhere where these oils may be cheaper? Let me know what info you have, thanks!
 

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don't worry about that crap, just find a quality fully synthetic oil with the same viscosity you can source at home...the uk has w.m.d's and oil.....just saying probably cheaper to invade ;)
 

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They recommend those oils to you, because that's the stuff they make the most margin on, tell'em to shove it up their asses!

Any fully synth oil that meets Nissan's standards is fine, especially if like me you change it every 2500 - 3000 miles! You can do 3 oil changes in a year for the same price as one of the "Branded Blends"
 

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10w50 would be as heavy as I would go if I was you.

I would only use 15w oils for trackdays etc.

Im basing this on the fact that your profile says you drive a GTR. A 10w oil should be spot on for your climate too
 

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10w50 would be as heavy as I would go if I was you.

I would only use 15w oils for trackdays etc.

Im basing this on the fact that your profile says you drive a GTR. A 10w oil should be spot on for your climate too
Why would you up the cold viscoisity for a track day? A 10w40 with the propper API rating should be fine, 5w40 would be even better but expensivendue to rarity. I'd only use 10w50 for extreme abuse i.e. track or if I had a big boost big heat setup. Otherwise you are just working your oil pump for no reason.

For refernce Motul 5100 10w40 meets both JASO and API oil specs, and two liters is 25 bucks at wallywold.

I've used that on my track bikes for years, and engine oil is shared with the tranny AND wet clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Was thinking of going with Amsoil 10w-40, although.. thinking any 10w40 would do the trick. Ill try a few out and get some UOA's and see which is best for my car.
 

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10w-30 is perfectly fine. I don't get too fancy with motor oil since you're supposed to change it so often. Mobil 1 can be found at WalMart and doesn't have worse performance than the rest of the frou-frout synthetic oils.
 

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10w-30 is perfectly fine. I don't get too fancy with motor oil since you're supposed to change it so often. Mobil 1 can be found at WalMart and doesn't have worse performance than the rest of the frou-frout synthetic oils.
Not sure I would run 10w30 with a turbo, remember when you are turning at 7,000rpm your turbos may be going 100,000 RPM, not to mention the added heat load. The two issues being that 10w30 is often bottom of the barrel in terms of quality, and it may be a bit thin under the heat loads that you are presenting.

I agree I wouldn't go crazy with expensive oils on a stock un-built engine.

As to periodicity, I plan on sending plenty of samples in to be analyzed, because I'm having a hard time with a 2500km oil life. For example in my 2006 F-150 with regular pseudo-synth Mobile 1 5w20 I sent a sample in at 7,500 miles, came back within spec. I lived in New Mexico at the time, so dust, extreme heat, etc. Pretty much a worst case scenario.

.....but I exceeded the mileage by a full 50% without hurting the oil.

Your oil gage should tell you what you need to know, I know that the oil in my car is too thick, the pressure sits at 8 on the gage until the car is up to temp when it drops to the expected 2, so I'm assuming its a 15w something, the hot side seem to be right, with pressure staying constant through a variety of temp ranges.

Going to change it to 10w40 and see how it acts this week.
 
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