Should be able to find it tomorrow when I am back under the car.
BTW... The front shock problem is solved..... Upper arms seem to have been swapped around by previous owner (theory is had been dragging the car), but the bushes were so worn the car had settled into a nice -ve camber on them. arms taken back out today and swapped around and hey presto, problem solved! Camber is fine, suspension tight as a nut and no nasty banging going on!
Many thanks for taking time to cast an eye over it the other day.
Been lurking on that thread and that's what inspired me,, as pretty much everything else has been changed on the car so I may as well do the o2 sensor as well. Shall enquire on prices in the morning and then decided whether to clean the existing one using a lemon. Odd idea, but if I am ordering a new one anyway, I may as well try it and see what happens!
Not sure of its exact function, but it senses something or other in the exhaust gases and feeds the info to the ECU, so if its dirty then as a result the car's performance will be degraded. On the other hand, I could be talking absolute bo**o*ks!
an oxygen sensor does exactily what it says on the tin. measures the amount of oxygen in the exhuast system ...
the ecu can tell if the engine is running the correct amount of fuel to air ratio etc etc.....
Ok. So if the sensor is showing too much O2 then the car must be running lean yeh & the ecu corrects this but if its dirty then the sensor wont be working as well as it should & it wont get corrected? Think i get it. Do i get a cigar?
Eddie your correct.If the O2 sensor is faultly it will effect the cars running and at m.o.t time it will have a bearing on your emissions so if it's faulty it's best to replace it, the lemons an interesting theory give it a whirl you never know it may work.
Its one of the ways the car will "trim" the fuel level going into the car. Its basically a big on/off switch, switch on more fuel, switch off less fuel.
The switching is triggered by the resistance across the sensor, this is why Mycroft suggests that cleaning the outer casing will improve the sensor, removing deposists from the outer casing will improve the conductivity of the outer casing and lead to a more relaible reading.
The sensor is not actually used all the time, its main job is to try and lower emmisions at idle and cruise, generally under full throttle it will be ignored. When you hear people talk about "mapping" a car one of the tools they will use is a "wide band oxygen sensor" this temporarly replaces your lambda and is used to test the air/fuel ratio of the car as it is driven.
Using the information from the wide band sensor, ie. how rich or lean the car is running an overall fuel map can be dictated for the car. The wide band unit is then removed and you original one replace where it gets back to the job of "trimming" that fuel map when required.
You get them in several varieties, 1,2,3 and 4 wire versions you can also get titanium versions on some cars like the GTiR. Other names for them are Lambda Sensor, Air/Fuel Sensor and of course that wee bugger there
Common fault on the Nissan one is that overtime they will predomanatly run towards lean, the ECU wont always log it as a fault because its still getting a signal back. Typical symptoms are poor idle, raised idle and lackluster performance, replacment is usually the norm or perhaps as Mycroft suggested perhaps a slice of lemon will do the trick nicely
So basically Jock take your car for an emissions test to find out if its dirty or not. Im of the opinion that these things are best left alone. If you start messing around with it when you dont need to you`re asking for trouble. If it aint broke,dont try to fix it,so to speak.
and had a look at it. Be a piece of cake to get out if I had a tool that would fit, which I don't, so I am not going to bother trying to get it out in case I break it.
But, I am dying to take it out and have a look.......
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