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Discussion Starter #1
I have a problem with my climate control.
When i put it on 18 degrees it is ****ing cold and 19 degrees it is way to hot...

I took the diagnostics and the result is:
22 - Inside air sensor
25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen)

My question:
Where is the inside air sensor? (pic please)
What is the function of the Sunload sensor


Found this on FAQ:

Climate Control Diagnostics R32 and R33

The climate control has a diagnostic mode.

Enter the diagnostic mode by pressing the OFF button for five seconds within ten seconds of turning the ignition on.
Sensor check
Sensor check is selected by pressing HOT switch (the red triangle) while in diagnostic mode. The microcomputer detects whether each sensor input signal is within correct parameters. The results are displayed on the screen.

If normal, a "20" is displayed.

If abnormal the failed sensor number is displayed. The sensor numbers are as follows:

20 - all is normal
21 - outside air sensor
22 - Inside air sensor
23 - Water temperature sensor
24 - Intake temperature sensor
25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen)
26 - PBR
27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor

This should tell you if any of your sensors are faulty.
Mode door position check
(This is probably not the cause of your problems but it is a nifty self check to play with). While in Sensor check, depress the HOT button again. This will operate the the mode door actuator, and checks the whether the position detection switch is operating. Again the results are displayed on the display.

If normal, a "30" is displayed.

If abnormal the number of the faulty mode is displayed as follows:

30: Normal
31: VENT
32: B/L (Bi level)
34: FOOT
35: DEFROST/FOOT
36: DEFROST

Actuator operation check
By pressing the HOT button while in Mode Door Position check, you can actually send a signal to check the operation of the actuator manually. This is a bit complex, and will be expanded upon when a manual can viewed.
Sensor recognition check
Press the HOT switch again and a "5" will be indicated in the display section. If you press the "AMB" button (R32) or the windscreen defroster button (R33) in this status, the display will show the temperature sensed by each sensor. This will give you an indication also of which (if any) are faulty.

Temperatures will be displayed in the following order (R32):

5 -> Outside air temp -> Inside air temp -> Suction temp -> Refrigerant temp

R33 seems to have a different selection, with three temperatures being displayed.

Obviously if any of these temps seem excessively different from actual temperatures you have a problem!
Calibration
If you depress the fan switch during the Sensor Recognition check, you will go to Calibration in which you can set the difference between the indicated temperature and sensed temperature.

While in Calibration press the HOT or COLD buttons to change the display by plus or minus 3 degrees in .5 degree increments (R32) or 1 degree increments (R33).
 

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Dorset/Wilts Area Rep
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Just a guess my is the inside temp sensor just behind the dash where that little vent is.

If you remove the dash theres a very small plug by this vent I rekon thats it. There is also a pipe leading away from this vent.

Take out the das and have a look, could just be unplugged....

PS how did you get yours down to 18 mine, i think, only does 20.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just a guess my is the inside temp sensor just behind the dash where that little vent is.

If you remove the dash theres a very small plug by this vent I rekon thats it. There is also a pipe leading away from this vent.

Take out the das and have a look, could just be unplugged....

PS how did you get yours down to 18 mine, i think, only does 20.
thanx

I haven`t changed anything, it has been able to get down to 18 since i got the car...
 

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Hi there,

Just working on 1998 R33 GTS and found the diagnostic very useful thanks.
But - Do you know what "26 - PBR" is ?

I had A/C guy - Chilly Willy - come and give mine the once over as it was blasting hot air all the time. It needed a coolant top up as it was only about half full, but it was not the only thing.

The problem might be that "PBM" but we also found that the infamous "Ticking behind the dash" might be a worm gear jumping when it should be closing a flap.
The same activation unit (just above the left foot rest) does not close the hot supply pipe (back centre left of engine bay just under the scuttle) when the A/C demands it. Manual closing after dislocation of the cable does the trick. (Hold closed with a rubber band for temporary summer relief - shades of the old Morris Minors!)

Also, the additional fan unit (on the outside right of the coolant radiator - viewed from front of car) is not cutting in. Line check back to the top of the switch on the from coolant reservoir show continuity and direct application of 12v power will get the fan to run (so it is not broken).

Possibility of switch not working or broken cable further back still needs to be investigated.
It's only a problem when stationary and no air flow through rad – can cause the condenser to burn out if it gets too hot.

If it is the car's ECU at fault then it is a lot cheaper to fit manual switch under the dash as override!

Anyone out there have success in fixing similar?

Regards
Mike
 
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