Right its starting to bug me now and it feels like its getting worse. Ive had the calipers off early summer and none of the pistons are sticking, ive had the geometry checked the front is all good, but the rear camber isnt 100% as one side was at max adjustment.
The only thing i can think off is i had to disconnect the battery a while back and im not sure if the steering was dead straight when i did this, would this throw the hicas out, as it does pull to the left a little when driving, but if i brake hard i need to fight it to stay in a straight line!
Any ideas what else i could look at, like shocks leaking or new pads maybe? theres plenty of life in the discs n pads on there now so i dont wana change em unless i have to.
its worth a shot, but it does feel like theres more to it. hard to explain, like if i turn right the steering is heavier than when i turn left, even when i take account for the camber in the road.
jack ffront off car up and see if there is any tight spots in rack and also check upper strut top mounts and bottom ball joint, its hard to say what it is without being there to look at it...
Could be different air pressures in tyres, wheel alignment (did you get a laser alignment done?), loose steering parts, one disc more worn than another (esp if they have ever been skimmed), wheel cylinder seized.
ah didnt think about that, i did get them skimmed 2 years ago when i first got the car as it would vibrate under braking as if a disc was warped. the vibration was sorted but it could be someting else to check *goes to look for micrometer*
are the shocks leaking ? is one side more bouncy then the other ? coil spring not broken ? are the tyres wearing even over the tread ? are the wheels free spinning when you jack the car up ? are the wheels still free spinning when you jack the car up after you have been for a drive and the brakes are nice and hot ? could be a brake hose slightly calasped inside ? any play in the swivels when you jack the car up and try for play top/bottom and side to side even when trying it on a lock ? power steering fluid ok ? power steering belt look ok and adjusted correctly ?
all the above is what i have to check out on customers cars when they have similar problems !!!
thanks for all the good tips guys, ive had a look now at a few things, the shox are new D2 racing and all appear fine ride height all the same, no play in the hubs etc, ive had the calipers off and none of the pistons appear seized, the discs are starting to wear a bit but without a micrometer its very hard to say if theres any difference between the two.
tyres all new and almost no wear but look ok, i had the alignment done lazer job 4 months ago, but i have reset the ecu since, not 100% sure if the wheel was dead straight tho.
as for the other stuff sugested i didnt think about the brake hoses, i guess if they're gettung old this could cause it.
i think the alignment is part of it, but when i pull up at the lights for instance, ive tried it a few times, the road is dead level no camber, and i just touch the brakes hands off the wheel, the steering wheel turns to 10 o'clock and stays at 10 till the car stops or im forced to correct it (dont wana hit the kurb do i)
thing is, the engine has a leak, the manifold studs have snapped and need doing, the cambelt was due a change 5k ago, ive just paid the insurance and xmas is round the corner, i dont think i can find the readies for new discs pads and hoses!!! sods law isnt it really!!
i had exactly the same problem with my gtst it turned out to be the front bolt seized in to the bush on the tie rod. i put new adjustable cusco ones on and had the caster camber and toe-in setup and it cured it instantly.
hope it helps.
Sounds like setback to me... One front wheel set back further than the other, this could be caused by knackered tie rod bushes, ball joints worn, something bent, different caster settings for each wheel, this would also explain why it turns one way easier than the other... The laser alignment check should have highlighted this problem, even my lightbeam system shows setback!!!
We do heavy duty adjustable pillow ball tie rods from KTS...
Air in brake lines or calipers would give a spongy pedal. if it was a problem with the brakes, siezed piston etc it would pull to the left and keep pulling, if it pulls the steering wheel to 10 o'clock position and stops there, then it's some slack being taken up somewhere in the suspension/steering... Check all ball joints on front suspension, track rod ends etc
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