Water temp sensor mate
Tapatalk - S3 rooted
Tapatalk - S3 rooted
R33 GTR starting / Cold running
Hi everyone,
Car's giving me grief again and I'm struggling to pin point the issue.
It starts and then stalls on the first key turn (attempt).
Then if I start it again and give it some throttle, it runs very rough and needs to sit at around 1.8k rpm, otherwise it stalls.
After it's warmed up it runs like it does normally.
I've taken a video of the car at start up on the Sensor screen of the PFC and again after a good 70 mile trip.
I was wondering if this was due to me having starting issues and the battery being not fully charged. I tend to use my car a few times a week, but I was away for a week and then this issue started. I was wondering if it was due to the drain on the system with all the aftermarket gauges and alarm system etc. From what I understand the car won't charge up a for example 70% battery back to 100%, it will maintain it at 70%. I'm going to try and start it with a jumper pack connected to see if it just fires up and runs fine, as I'm thinking that maybe the battery draws so much to initialise the first running of the car, that it's slowly killing off a weakened battery.
I've had new plugs and it's got splitfire coil packs. Could this be an injector or ignition pack issue? It's the fact that it runs fine after a bit of warming up that is confusing me over where to look, but to me, points me towards a cold start issue. The fuel pump is about 2 years old, HKS, so I'm not looking at it being that. It's got larger aftermarket injectors. When running the alternator says 14.6/7v when cold and runs about 14.2/4v when driving depending on if lights are on etc.
The other week it wouldn't start, so I cleaned the plugs, repaired a leaking fuel filter with new fuel filter and new fuel pipe and double/triple checked all the hose clips etc. Then we jumped it with the power pack and it ran not a problem. The battery is about 3 year old and is a big heavy duty Halfords one for an R34 GTR. I'm guessing that if it starts well from power pack then it means that I need to charge the battery, and if after a while it happens again, its new battery time, yeah?
Any suggestions or tips and advice I'd love. PS: Can you charge the R33 GTR rear mounted battery from the connections in the engine bay by the fuse / jumping points?
I can't think of anything else that would help. I thought that it was the 02 sensors as does run rich, which I will be sorting with a remap, and I thought that these could be coaked up, but the voltages read 0.02v at cold and 0.80v when driving and dip to about 0.63v when you're driving and take your foot off the throttle.
I also don't do any short trips, I tend to do long runs in the car, so no just nipping to the shops etc. It tends to always be round trips going out between 10miles to 80miles and back, which from what I understand is ok for the battery, as opposed to lots of 4mile trips where it never warms up etc.
Just after starting
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_y4G707RPM&feature=youtu.be
After long ride out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbKbAbsiESs&feature=youtu.be
Car's giving me grief again and I'm struggling to pin point the issue.
It starts and then stalls on the first key turn (attempt).
Then if I start it again and give it some throttle, it runs very rough and needs to sit at around 1.8k rpm, otherwise it stalls.
After it's warmed up it runs like it does normally.
I've taken a video of the car at start up on the Sensor screen of the PFC and again after a good 70 mile trip.
I was wondering if this was due to me having starting issues and the battery being not fully charged. I tend to use my car a few times a week, but I was away for a week and then this issue started. I was wondering if it was due to the drain on the system with all the aftermarket gauges and alarm system etc. From what I understand the car won't charge up a for example 70% battery back to 100%, it will maintain it at 70%. I'm going to try and start it with a jumper pack connected to see if it just fires up and runs fine, as I'm thinking that maybe the battery draws so much to initialise the first running of the car, that it's slowly killing off a weakened battery.
I've had new plugs and it's got splitfire coil packs. Could this be an injector or ignition pack issue? It's the fact that it runs fine after a bit of warming up that is confusing me over where to look, but to me, points me towards a cold start issue. The fuel pump is about 2 years old, HKS, so I'm not looking at it being that. It's got larger aftermarket injectors. When running the alternator says 14.6/7v when cold and runs about 14.2/4v when driving depending on if lights are on etc.
The other week it wouldn't start, so I cleaned the plugs, repaired a leaking fuel filter with new fuel filter and new fuel pipe and double/triple checked all the hose clips etc. Then we jumped it with the power pack and it ran not a problem. The battery is about 3 year old and is a big heavy duty Halfords one for an R34 GTR. I'm guessing that if it starts well from power pack then it means that I need to charge the battery, and if after a while it happens again, its new battery time, yeah?
Any suggestions or tips and advice I'd love. PS: Can you charge the R33 GTR rear mounted battery from the connections in the engine bay by the fuse / jumping points?
I can't think of anything else that would help. I thought that it was the 02 sensors as does run rich, which I will be sorting with a remap, and I thought that these could be coaked up, but the voltages read 0.02v at cold and 0.80v when driving and dip to about 0.63v when you're driving and take your foot off the throttle.
I also don't do any short trips, I tend to do long runs in the car, so no just nipping to the shops etc. It tends to always be round trips going out between 10miles to 80miles and back, which from what I understand is ok for the battery, as opposed to lots of 4mile trips where it never warms up etc.
Just after starting
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_y4G707RPM&feature=youtu.be
After long ride out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbKbAbsiESs&feature=youtu.be
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Hi Eazigezza,
Can you explain a little more please
Thank you for the reply as well
Can you explain a little more please
Thank you for the reply as well The water temp sensor will set the ecu fuel map on cold starts.
Try unplugging it and seeing what happens.
Tapatalk - S3 rooted
Try unplugging it and seeing what happens.
Tapatalk - S3 rooted
Could it be the cold start valve or the IAC?
Possibly but first try what easigezza saidCould it be the cold start valve or the IAC?
Bringing up an old thread here, but my old r33 was the same, wasnt too great on cold start, used to have to let idle for a couple minutes,
But i have now purchased me second skyline, and i have also moved to a much colder location!!
Sometimes when i start it, i have to hold the revvs up for it to warm up for a while, but it also very tight and rough when it comes to selecting gears!!
Like sometimes wont even go into gear, the box feels that tight,
Anyone else had this issue, or know what it could be? Once the car gains its normal temp it is fine, i also turn off my thermos to help speed up with warm up, any more pointers?
But i have now purchased me second skyline, and i have also moved to a much colder location!!
Sometimes when i start it, i have to hold the revvs up for it to warm up for a while, but it also very tight and rough when it comes to selecting gears!!
Like sometimes wont even go into gear, the box feels that tight,
Anyone else had this issue, or know what it could be? Once the car gains its normal temp it is fine, i also turn off my thermos to help speed up with warm up, any more pointers?
The boxes are also hard to get a gear when cold mate, tried changing the oil? Could help
Ian
Tapatalk - S3 rooted
Ian
Tapatalk - S3 rooted
Re the OP, I'm sure this has been addressed before, presumed the issue had been sorted, i thought the ECU water temp sensor had been suggested before, did you not test or try another?
It could be the IAC or the air bypass valve, the ECU water temp sensor if faulty will usually result in a rich mixture whether cold or hot, so a cold start situation will be OK buy far too much fuel on hot start, unplugging the sensor will not change anything as the if the ECU will just default to cold start condition if there is no signal/faulty, you need to test it for resistance at two different temps to see if its working or not.
It could be the IAC or the air bypass valve, the ECU water temp sensor if faulty will usually result in a rich mixture whether cold or hot, so a cold start situation will be OK buy far too much fuel on hot start, unplugging the sensor will not change anything as the if the ECU will just default to cold start condition if there is no signal/faulty, you need to test it for resistance at two different temps to see if its working or not.
I had issues with my 1st skyline and cold starting, a new battery with more spark power than the original came with helpped me out. what happened when you tried it with a jump pack on, did it start better or just the same as before?
Maybe this time don't get a halfords battery, try euro car parts or a company like that, they will supply a better quality battery with higher CCA than halfords.
Maybe this time don't get a halfords battery, try euro car parts or a company like that, they will supply a better quality battery with higher CCA than halfords.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
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