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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My mate's Skyline is refusing to start.

It cranks well, has a spark while cranking and fuel pumps past the filter into the rail but it seems there is no injection.
I've done a quick check of all the sensors to see if any are loose etc and they're all there.
It has an immobiliser and the light stops flashing when the fob thing is pressed onto it.
The 'CHECK' fuel pump-shaped light comes on as soon as the ignition does and I think stays on while cranking but obviously the pump is working because fuel is getting to the rail and I can hear it priming. Whilst cranking another light comes on below it which looks like a block with 4 S's above it - possibly the immobiliser light?
Immobiliser fault?
Also yesterday after returning the key back from the cranking position and onto 'key stage 2', the engine seemed to kick-back a couple times with delays in-between and cough the wrong way a rev or two :wtf:

P.S There is currently no A/C belt on it and I just changed the rad and fan because he hit an owl and punctured the last one lol. The original temp sensor isn't connected and never was but surely none of these affect it not firing?
It hasn't moved from the last time it was started (a few days). He said it started normally last time but he had a couple misfires and has been for a few weeks until it's warm, but that could be a load of crap because he's not very knowledgeable about cars...

Thanks for any tips...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Am I looking for 12v at the connector or do they run on less?
Will I get voltage with just the ignition on or will I need to crank it i.e. is it a constant voltage and they're fired by connecting to ground?
 

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When I done my 25 conversion I had no injectors turned out to be no + voltage. Follow the leads from injectors to a connection block a grey plug will be behind your coil pack with 7 wires thickest wire will be +12 negative firing from ecu to connector. I also have an ecu for 20e but it's pending payment for another couple of days.
 

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brett
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it could be a airlock in the fuel rail giving insufficient fuel pressure.disconnect the return pipe,pump some fuel through and then reconnect the pipe and give it a go.5minute job so worth a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
it could be a airlock in the fuel rail giving insufficient fuel pressure.disconnect the return pipe,pump some fuel through and then reconnect the pipe and give it a go.5minute job so worth a try.
Just tried this and it didn't solve the problem. Is there a way to properly bleed it?

//

With the ignition on but not cranking I get roughly 11v at the injector plug so this must mean that they're fired by grounding them? Anyone know how to check if they're earthing correctly?

It must either be an air-lock in the fuel system, injectors not grounding or incorrect spark timing but nothing has changed!
 

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brett
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if you have a plug out and crank over the engine wouldnt you see fuel come out the plug hole if the injector is atomising?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'll try looking for injection down the plug hole when I can find a damn socket that fits lol.
As regards to the spark that's what I thought but there's nothing at all, just pure cranking with no coughs at all.

This is the light that's on as soon as the ignition is:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes it was the first thing I did. I used a spare plug in the end of a lead and there was a strong spark every revolution.
 

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brett
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if there was a strong spark definitly sounds fuel related.could it be the pump isnt producing enough pressure? You could put a gauge in line to check it...is there fuel in the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
if there was a strong spark definitly sounds fuel related.could it be the pump isnt producing enough pressure? You could put a gauge in line to check it...is there fuel in the car?
Plenty of fuel in the car and the pump easily pumps past the filter into the rail, I don't have access to a pressure gauge but I'm doubting the pump as the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update

Just got a few minutes spare so I double-checked for a spark on another couple cylinders and there is definitely one there and it's strong. I pulled the intake tube off straight from the manifold and got a mate to wind it over with the throttle/butterfly wide open while I squirted in some easy-start, to no avail. It didn't cough or even try to fire whatsoever. I took a couple plugs out and they were wet so obviously fuel of some kind is getting to them. What's going on?! :eek7:

With a plug out I am unable to see directly if the injectors are firing but like I said the plugs were wet (before I started spraying easy-start) as was the piston crown.

I started to think that it could be a cam/crank sensor issue since reading on a few forums that they're known to fail and cause these kind of symptoms?? ...but if there's spark and fuel it should be firing anyway?! I'm also starting to think whether the head has been cooked and there's a total loss of compression, it's unlikely but I have heard of it, anyone experienced anything like this with an RB? I'm out of ideas nearly...

I'm going to give it another go tomorrow with a fully charged battery... anything else I can try? Anyone local that could have a look? (Shaftesbury, Dorset). :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update

Yesterday for absolutely no reason the car started first time and today refuses to again.
When it started yesterday it ran fine for 15 mins or so, it was stopped and restarted fine.
Today it wouldn't have it at all, same as before, ideas?
I thought water might be getting in somewhere but I've checked all fuses and connectors etc, cleaned them and still no change???!!!
 

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Seems strange that its getting fuel and a spark and not starting, I say take all plugs out, take fuse for fuel pump out, crank it a few times and leave it to sit a while in case you have flooded the engine.

Make sure every spark plug is good, it wouldn't hurt to change them for some new ones and you don't need iridium plugs just normal 7s will do, give the MAF a good clean too with some carb cleaner.

As your putting the plugs back in connect up each coilpack to check for a good spark on that plug, then put it in moving onto the next, once all checked and back in put the fuse back in the fuel pump and let it prime a few times.

Also check all electrical plugs are pushed on ok, check all vacuum hoses are ok, make sure your engine is earthed too, hope you get it sorted mate.

Davie


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Tried it again today after leaving it for a while.
It started about 1 in 7 times but once it was running it was fine (at idle and light throttle), but as soon as more than 1/4 throttle is used it misfired like hell however it would be okay if the throttle was opened very slowly. To me this indicates a mixture issue (too lean). I checked the MAF and it was working and clean. Faulty lambda?
Sometimes after cranking for several seconds and then turning the key back the engine would fire a few times (sometimes backwards) and backfire through the intake.

Considering when the immobiliser is activated the engine wont crank at all, and it cranks all the time when deactivated, it's very unlikely to be that, and having checked the plugs for sparks multiple times I'm sure the ignition side of things is fine so I think it's definitely fueling.
So what are the likely causes to injectors firing at the wrong times? What triggers them, the CAS?

So; Fuel pump working, priming and supplying fuel to the rail and it's not flooded. And there's fresh fuel in the tank.

Worth trying to get a diagnostic machine on it? I can't seem to find anywhere local with one.
 

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brett
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i think it may possibly be your fuel pump not supplying enough pressure.you can T into the fuel feed in the engine bay with a gauge and check the pressure.im pretty sure you should get a steady 2bar.
 
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