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Discussion Starter #1
I've had this issue with both my stock GT-R and Nismo units so i did tons of searching to finally solve this issue. I used a guide from the UK site and it solved my problem on both units but some pictures would no longer load. I took some pictures as i did my second one.


VIDEO*tach is at 10k+ RPM while idling and jumping around

http://youtu.be/92Xwml4MR9k

As you can see the car is in the ON position but not cranked and my cluster is jumping all over the place from 0-11k RPM and does the same upon start up. You can see in the video above as well with my old unit.



Tools used:




Once you have the Tach out, remove the two screws holding the board to the tach and desolder the 4 connections in between.






Next you will see the 22pin chip that is on the board, this is what you want to remove.








So you should have something like this, be sure to be very careful on the next step



Since Nissan didnt put very much room for the socket to make a great connection to the board we will be allowing it to make a better connection, thus making your tach work.
What you want to do is scrape off bits of the solder resist*the lighter parts on the board* but be sure to stay with in that specific pins circuit. For this i simply used a razor blade to scrape bits off as such.

Start:


Finish:


Once this is done you can re-install your 22pin chip, soldering it back on.




Replace the board on the tach itself, put the two screws back in and resolder those 4 connections and you are finished. The first time doing this i took my time so it was a few hours of work; however the second time it only took me 30mins or so to complete. Both the Nismo cluster and stock clusters share the same board so it does work for both units.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
When you resolder the 22 pin can the solder be touching or does it have to have space in between each one?
theres two in the middle that have 2 and 3 pins on the same circuit where you can, otherwise every other one has to be individual as they have separate paths
 

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Hello
When you take the board off the face plate and remove the needle, how do you ensure the needle motor doesn't move?
I just thinking about when it goes back together how do you calibrate the needle?
 

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Hello
When you take the board off the face plate and remove the needle, how do you ensure the needle motor doesn't move?
I just thinking about when it goes back together how do you calibrate the needle?
You don't remove the needle from the face plate or motor. You simply desolder the motor pins and remove the face plate, needle, and motor as one assembly.
 

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Link here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8Os1L2oXfo I got a solder kit from ebay for a few ££ with a solder sucker which makes life easy and sucked the old solder off …. I renewed all of the contacts and it worked well, its an easy satisfying fix.


Cheers mate, that helps a lot.

I would prefer pics of the exacts pins to re solder. Not soldier as the guy say in the video, made me chuckle
 
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