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437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
R34 GTT Auto to Manual Project ***Updated with Pics***

Well its about time that I've started this thread, as I've been gathering the parts required for about 3 months to do the Auto to manual conversion.

Needs a wash!

First off, many thanks to Shun over on SkylinesAustralia for answering all the questions.

Parts Required:
R33 Manual Gearbox. (Series I or II doesnt matter, but the same)
R34 Brake Pedal
R34 Clutch Pedal
R34 Clutch Master Cylinder
R33 Clutch Slave Cylinder
R34 Clutch line
Nismo Clutch Line End
R34 Interior console trim
R34 Gearstick boots
R34 Gaitors (handbrake & Gearstick)
R34 C's Short Shifter
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
Clutch Release Bearing
R34 Flywheel
R33 Manual Drive Shaft
R33 Spigott Bearing
Misc Stuff - Gearbox bolts, Flywheel bolts & Clutch Slave Cylinder Bolts.

First thing first, why use a R33 gearbox?
They are cheaper (by about 50%), plus they use a push type clutch again cheaper) They are easier to get hold of, and are strong boxes.

Why use a R33 Drive shaft?
The Skyline GTS-t and GTT use a 2 part drive shaft. This goes for autos as well. Basically the drive shaft is split with a universal joint. The reason for the use of the R33 shaft is again availability and cost. To make the shaft for the R34 manual, just take the rear of the existing Auto shaft and attach the front (shorter) part of the R33 manual shaft.

Why the Slave Cylinder from a R33?
The R34 GTT and R33 GTS-t both use different types of clutch. The R33 uses a push type of Clutch, where the GTT (and GTRs including the R33) use pull types of Clutch. Because of this the respective slave cylinders are reversed and as I'm using a R33 gearbox I have to use a R33 slave cylinder.

What about the Clutch line between the different models of Cylinders?
I have an original Clutch master line which is made of solid lines and an oil cooler. I bought an uprated Nismo line which interfaces between this line the slave cylinder of a R34. However the connection fits the R33 with very little modification.

What about the ECU?
There is no need to swap the ECU from your standard Auto ecu. The Auto ECU is the same as the manual, but with an additional interface to take control functions from the auto gearbox to automatically adjust the timing when you change gear. This allows you to not have to drop the revs when changing up/down. This part is redundant when the manual gearbox is installed.

What about the Speedo and Clocks?
There are no issues with the speedo when doing the conversion from the R33 gearbox. I'll supply the correct wiring for the connectors from the gearbox to the car so that the speedo reads correctly.
However, one modification you will need to do is to remove the Auto Gearbox warning light from the binicle, as it will light when the auto is removed and will annoy you!

I already have a Brake Pedal, why do I need a Manual one?
First off the Auto brake pedal is twick the size of the manual one. Second, it actually sits higher than the manual one. So when the clutch pedal is installed, they will look stupid.

Thats all for now. Have to dash. Will update later tonight/tomorrow with the following:
Step 1. Fitting the Clutch Pedal and Master Cylinder
Step 2. Fitting the Manual Brake Pedal.

I would just like to add thanks to **** and Rob for the help last night with the Clutch Pedal fitting!

1,859 Posts
This could just become my closest watched thread on the forum :)

Good luck with the conversion matey.

Where did you source the clutch and break pedal by the way? :cheers:

2,142 Posts
Nice one, watching this with interest as well :)

437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
R34 GTT Manual Conversion

Part 2: Installation of the Clutch Pedal and Clutch Master Cylinder

The real work starts here.

Step 1. Remove the front drivers seat. The reason for this is access under the dash. With the drivers seat out, you will have better access under the dash.
To remove the drivers seat, there are 4 x 14mm bolts, one at each corner to remove. When the 4 bolts are removed fold the seat forward as it makes it easier to carry. Just to note that there is a small wire to be unclipped before you can remove the seat. This is for the seatbelt warning.

Step 2. With the seat removed, you will need to remove the lower portion of the console under the steering wheel. This is the part with the TCS button and the SunGlasses holder. To remove this, there is one Phillips head screw on the very left bottom and two bolts on the right. The Bolts on the right (2 x 10mm) also hold on the bonnect release. just undoo the two bolts, let the bonnect release fall away and gently (remmeber gently) pull the trim piece towards you. There are a few connections to be removed (TCS and Head Light Adjuster, a few others depending on spec of car) first. When the console piece is removed you will have to look under the dash to where the clutch pedal resides.
Up there you will notice a perferated outline of the clutch pedal mountint bracket on the firewall insulation. This just peels out and leaves you with the template on the firewall for the clutch pedal mount.
A good tip here is to get an automatic centre punch so you can centre the holes for the drill bit and hole saw.
You will need to drill three holes. 2 x 10mm for the mounting bolts and one about 40mm for the cylinder assembly and fork to fit through the firewall.

This is looking onto the firewall from the engine bay. On the left is Brake master Cylinder and on the right is dip stick for the auto transmission. This area has to be cut with a stanley knife.

This shows the same area after the hole is cut. This is also before we used the dremel to tidy up the cuts and remove the birring from the edges.

Step 3. Cutting the holes. Use the centre punch to estimate the centre the three holes and start with a small 2-3mm drill bit. Turn on the hammer action or you'll be there all day. Drill the three pilot holes. With the two smaller holes work your way up to the finished side by using a number of smaller bits. This will stop you forcing the bit through and into your brake master cylinder.
Use a hole saw to cut the middle hole. We also used a Dremel to fine tune the holes and also get rid of the birring arround the three holes.

This picture is looking up under the dash. The hole saw has cut the hole and the blank is still sitting in the hole. Notice also the factory cutout on the insulation on the firewall.

Step 4. Offer up the clutch pedal from the inside of the car, and wriggle the clutch master cylinder from the outside. you'll notice that the Auto box dip stick is in the way, just twist this away.

Step 5. Tighten up the two bolts on the master cylinder in the engine bay and install the pin on the pedal which holds the forks from the master cylinder to the pedal. This pedal is spring mounted and as its not connected to the slave and pressure plate you can just leave the pedal sprung back agains the floor so its not in the way.

All done! For now.

Thats all for now. Time for this stage was about 3 hours, which included plenty of taking about cars and standing around. Not to mention the amount of time spent looking for the 3/4 spanner.:)

Tomorrow. Brake pedal - How hard can it be.......VERY.

437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Rob was off Courting:dogpile: last night leaving myself and **** to install the Clutch line. So pictures will be added to the above posts hopefully over the weekend.

Part 3. Installation of the Brake Pedal.

This is where the serious work starts. Its best to start this on a seperate day to the clutch as it could take a serious amount of time if you dont have too much experience.

First off, follow the previous instructions to remove the front seat and the console under the steering wheel.

Step 1. Drop the Steering Rack.
Not as scary as it sounds. Basically the steering rack is held on with 2 bolts (front end ) and two nuts (rear/brake pedal end). When dropping the rack made sure that you've removed all the cable ties for the wiring loom so that the rack can drop to the floor without putting any stress on the loom.

Dont mind the bald spot.

Step 2. Remove Steering Rack Mounting Plate.
This is the plate which holds the steering rack in place and level. You dont actually have to remove any additional bolts, as this plate is sandwitched between the rack and chassis of the car. There is just a small lip at the front of the plate which you have to unhook (be warned this is not as easy as it sounds.

Step 3. Undo Brake pedal bolts and master cylinder.
First step here is to remove the pin which holds the brake pedal to the brake plunger on the brake master cylinder. To remove there is a cotter pin which is the first fail safe on the pin and this just slides out.
At the top of the pin is an Arrow Head. This is the second failsafe on the pin and just needs to be pinched and then the pin will slide out.

There are 5 bolts holding in the brake pedal. 4 are obvious and are at each corner. Because you have the manual brake pedal you will see exactly where the bolts go. However, there is 5th bolt which bolts into the top vertical face of the pedal, and this will cause a few problems.

You will also have to move the master cylinder out into the engine bay so the plunger will clear the brake pedal and allow you to get it out. Be very carefull doing this. Also you will need to move the air duct which travels behind the binicle forwards and the brake pedal will take a bit of persuasion, and I mean a large bit, very large bit.

Step 4. Installation of the Brake Pedal.
Basically the opposite the above. the top most bolt doesnt line up correctly, and that is still a work in progress.
Replace the master cylinder and install the pin with the cotter pin. Make sure that you can pump the pedal and it gets hard (ooh err missus) after 3 pumps.

Just remember that it is the brake pedal and exteme care needs to be taken when doing anything like this on your own car.

Very Important note.
There are two switches connected to the auto brake pedal. These are for the brake lights and Shift Lock. However, there is only one connection on the manual brake, this is for the brake light. This doesnt cause a problem, but you do need to be carefull. The shift lock is what stops you moving the auto selector from Park into any other gear without you foot on the brake pedal.

When you disconnect the Shift Lock, it will allow you move the gear selector freely. This isnt really a problem as you shold by now be automatically be putting your foot on the brake pedal when starting the car anyway. Just make sure that you tell anyone who is driving your car about this, especially if they are not too familiar with autos.

Next step is Install of the Clutch Line.

437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Jobs let to do.
Part 4. Install of the Clutch Line

Part 5. Drop and assembly of Drive Shaft

Part 6. Removal of Starter Motor and Auto Transmission

Part 7. Removal of Auto Spigott Bearing.

Part 8. Install Flywheel and Clutch

Part 9. Removal of Centre Console and Auto Selector.

Part 10. Change Gearbox Oil and Installation of Gearbox.

Part 11. Install of Driveshaft

Part 12. Finish!

953 Posts
fair play lads thats a lot of work but ive seen that particular gtt its a nice one defo worth it all the best listen if ya need anything welded up gis a holler ill do it for nothin just not on the car though take it apart first

437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Cheers guys for the comments. Would have been major stuck without the help from **** and Rob.

There will be more specific pictures going up over the next few days. just waiting on bolts from Nissan for the Gearbox, Slave and Clutch line before we can go any further. They should be in this week.

437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well the project is now complete. As of 22:00 on Saturday my car is now a manual.

I gave the car to a mechanic to to get the manual gearbox installed and get her wired up. Ran into a few problems with the wiring. When the gearbox was in neutral, the car thought that it was in reverse. Just had the reverse and neutral sensors reversed.

Quite a bit of junk comes out with the autobox. There is a dedicated oil cooler which can be seen at the front of standard radiator which came off alone with a serious amount of piping! The Torque convertor weighs nearly as much as the gearbox.

So whats the car like now.

I'm a big fan of autos. Love them, but with a manual in a skyline its just a totally different beast.

I'll be posting up the remaining pages of the conversion alone with tips and potential issues involved in removing the autobox.

58 Posts
I'm next!

Well I'll be alot quicker this time if your interested!

John I have those pics of the conversion ready to e-mail to you, just text me your address.

The wiring diagram I had was for a series 2 box and also made no referance to the speedo wires. They connected up ok once we removed the original block connectors(which were different) but it appears that the neutral and reverse switched on a srs1 bos are the oposite way around to a srs2 but Nissan being cruel, the wires are the same colour, i.e on a srs1 the neutral switch has the brown wires and on srs2 the reverse switch has the brown wires. Everything else went together well though. :cheers:
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