R34 GTT Auto to Manual Project ***Updated with Pics***
Well its about time that I've started this thread, as I've been gathering the parts required for about 3 months to do the Auto to manual conversion.
Needs a wash!
First off, many thanks to Shun over on SkylinesAustralia for answering all the questions.
Parts Required:
R33 Manual Gearbox. (Series I or II doesnt matter, but the same)
R34 Brake Pedal
R34 Clutch Pedal
R34 Clutch Master Cylinder
R33 Clutch Slave Cylinder
R34 Clutch line
Nismo Clutch Line End
R34 Interior console trim
R34 Gearstick boots
R34 Gaitors (handbrake & Gearstick)
R34 C's Short Shifter
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
Clutch Release Bearing
R34 Flywheel
R33 Manual Drive Shaft
R33 Spigott Bearing
Misc Stuff - Gearbox bolts, Flywheel bolts & Clutch Slave Cylinder Bolts.
Questions:
First thing first, why use a R33 gearbox?
They are cheaper (by about 50%), plus they use a push type clutch again cheaper) They are easier to get hold of, and are strong boxes.
Why use a R33 Drive shaft?
The Skyline GTS-t and GTT use a 2 part drive shaft. This goes for autos as well. Basically the drive shaft is split with a universal joint. The reason for the use of the R33 shaft is again availability and cost. To make the shaft for the R34 manual, just take the rear of the existing Auto shaft and attach the front (shorter) part of the R33 manual shaft.
Why the Slave Cylinder from a R33?
The R34 GTT and R33 GTS-t both use different types of clutch. The R33 uses a push type of Clutch, where the GTT (and GTRs including the R33) use pull types of Clutch. Because of this the respective slave cylinders are reversed and as I'm using a R33 gearbox I have to use a R33 slave cylinder.
What about the Clutch line between the different models of Cylinders?
I have an original Clutch master line which is made of solid lines and an oil cooler. I bought an uprated Nismo line which interfaces between this line the slave cylinder of a R34. However the connection fits the R33 with very little modification.
What about the ECU?
There is no need to swap the ECU from your standard Auto ecu. The Auto ECU is the same as the manual, but with an additional interface to take control functions from the auto gearbox to automatically adjust the timing when you change gear. This allows you to not have to drop the revs when changing up/down. This part is redundant when the manual gearbox is installed.
What about the Speedo and Clocks?
There are no issues with the speedo when doing the conversion from the R33 gearbox. I'll supply the correct wiring for the connectors from the gearbox to the car so that the speedo reads correctly.
However, one modification you will need to do is to remove the Auto Gearbox warning light from the binicle, as it will light when the auto is removed and will annoy you!
I already have a Brake Pedal, why do I need a Manual one?
First off the Auto brake pedal is twick the size of the manual one. Second, it actually sits higher than the manual one. So when the clutch pedal is installed, they will look stupid.
Thats all for now. Have to dash. Will update later tonight/tomorrow with the following:
Step 1. Fitting the Clutch Pedal and Master Cylinder
Step 2. Fitting the Manual Brake Pedal.
I would just like to add thanks to Mick and Rob for the help last night with the Clutch Pedal fitting!
Well its about time that I've started this thread, as I've been gathering the parts required for about 3 months to do the Auto to manual conversion.
Needs a wash!
First off, many thanks to Shun over on SkylinesAustralia for answering all the questions.
Parts Required:
R33 Manual Gearbox. (Series I or II doesnt matter, but the same)
R34 Brake Pedal
R34 Clutch Pedal
R34 Clutch Master Cylinder
R33 Clutch Slave Cylinder
R34 Clutch line
Nismo Clutch Line End
R34 Interior console trim
R34 Gearstick boots
R34 Gaitors (handbrake & Gearstick)
R34 C's Short Shifter
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
Clutch Release Bearing
R34 Flywheel
R33 Manual Drive Shaft
R33 Spigott Bearing
Misc Stuff - Gearbox bolts, Flywheel bolts & Clutch Slave Cylinder Bolts.
Questions:
First thing first, why use a R33 gearbox?
They are cheaper (by about 50%), plus they use a push type clutch again cheaper) They are easier to get hold of, and are strong boxes.
Why use a R33 Drive shaft?
The Skyline GTS-t and GTT use a 2 part drive shaft. This goes for autos as well. Basically the drive shaft is split with a universal joint. The reason for the use of the R33 shaft is again availability and cost. To make the shaft for the R34 manual, just take the rear of the existing Auto shaft and attach the front (shorter) part of the R33 manual shaft.
Why the Slave Cylinder from a R33?
The R34 GTT and R33 GTS-t both use different types of clutch. The R33 uses a push type of Clutch, where the GTT (and GTRs including the R33) use pull types of Clutch. Because of this the respective slave cylinders are reversed and as I'm using a R33 gearbox I have to use a R33 slave cylinder.
What about the Clutch line between the different models of Cylinders?
I have an original Clutch master line which is made of solid lines and an oil cooler. I bought an uprated Nismo line which interfaces between this line the slave cylinder of a R34. However the connection fits the R33 with very little modification.
What about the ECU?
There is no need to swap the ECU from your standard Auto ecu. The Auto ECU is the same as the manual, but with an additional interface to take control functions from the auto gearbox to automatically adjust the timing when you change gear. This allows you to not have to drop the revs when changing up/down. This part is redundant when the manual gearbox is installed.
What about the Speedo and Clocks?
There are no issues with the speedo when doing the conversion from the R33 gearbox. I'll supply the correct wiring for the connectors from the gearbox to the car so that the speedo reads correctly.
However, one modification you will need to do is to remove the Auto Gearbox warning light from the binicle, as it will light when the auto is removed and will annoy you!
I already have a Brake Pedal, why do I need a Manual one?
First off the Auto brake pedal is twick the size of the manual one. Second, it actually sits higher than the manual one. So when the clutch pedal is installed, they will look stupid.
Thats all for now. Have to dash. Will update later tonight/tomorrow with the following:
Step 1. Fitting the Clutch Pedal and Master Cylinder
Step 2. Fitting the Manual Brake Pedal.
I would just like to add thanks to Mick and Rob for the help last night with the Clutch Pedal fitting!