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91 GTR conversion
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Thats just a vent. it sounds like you still have air in the system. you said you bled the master and the slave. did you get a continuous stream of hydraulic fluid? me personally i would bleed it again. start with the bleeder on the master. then let it gravity bleed until fluid starts steadily come out then manually bleed it. or use one of the pressure bleeders or vacuum bleeders. hope that helps
 

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91 GTR conversion
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that fork is going to be very hard to move by hand. i have had some very stubburn clutches before. when you power bled it did you have solid stream? i have a few things i would try when i had stubburn bleeds. first things first id block the piston of the slave cylinder and lightly push on the clutch pedal to see if its still spongy. if it is then you know you have problem in the master, line, and slave system. if that was the case i would leave the piston blocked and then try to gravity bleed it. just put a clear hose on the bleeder, remove the lust master cyliner cap, crack the bleed screw open and wait. you should start to see some fluid eventually. once i was happy with the ammount of fluid that has come out. id vacuum bleed it. power bleeder would work to. once i had a solid stream id remove the block on the slave cylinder piston install the slave and function check there maybe one or two maunal pedal bleeds to do. i also have a cool home made tool for bleeding alone. its super simple.

if you still have a bad pedal id start looking at the compents. when i was a tech i use to joke about "new" parts. i would say new meant Never Ever Works. because alot of times we got bad parts out of the box.
 

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91 GTR conversion
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i forgot to add this to my last response. i have had repeatable success with these methods before. this has worked for me when i have some fluid coming out of the slave.
back pushing/ reverse bleeding.
start by gravity bleeding getting some fluid out of the slave
take the slave and slowly pump the piston in the slave to start pushing the air up to and out of the master.
make sure to keep the master about half full
keep pumping until no bubbles come out of the master

the second is what called dry vacuum bleeding. i have had to do this on GMs
make sure the level of the master isnt too high
some vacuum pump kits come with many attachments for this.
use an attachment that seals to the top of the master cylinder
using the hand pump apply 15-20 hg of vacuum and just let it sit
this pulls stubburn air bubbles out through the top of the master.
while waiting take a small ratched and tap the slave, lines and master to help dislodge any trapped air.

this doesnt work on every car or everytime but it has saved my ass more than a few times.
 
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