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My GTST spec2 rb25det setup
FMIC Toyo sports
Turbosmart manual boost control
Greddy Trust mushrom air filter
Greddy Trust downpipe
HKS Hi-power exhaust 4" from downpipe
Decat
Uprated coilpacks
RSP custom remap
With all modes before remap just 265hp,after remap 323hp.
Clutch went few weeks after remap,now running Competition clutch stage 2 for 500-600hp so im safe for stage 2

Plans for future is stage 2 with 400+hp
 

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Belgian Fries
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209 Posts
I always wondered if installing an ebc will require a retune or not. ...
It's not required as long as you don't up the boost to much (0.8-0.85 max for a stock rb25det turbo, increased risk of turbo failure if you go higher). I personally wouldn't abuse her to much when you up the boost without a retune though.

Retuning however does give a much better result, combined with the usual stage 1 mods (exhaust, fmic, ...).
Cheapest & most reliable way for tuning the ECU would be Nistune.
 

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239 Posts
Stock boost is 10psi the safe limit is 12.5psi on std turbo.

The std bhp is mean't to be 255bhp but dependant on mileage condition of engine this can vary big time.
Hi Bruce,

is the figure quoted for R33 GTST ?

I am asking because most people and knowledge bases do say R34 GTT is 285 hp rather than 250.

Could it be the RB25DET Neo is different from the RB25DET ?


The 2.5 L RB25 engine was produced in four forms:

RB25DE - NON-TURBO twin-cam 140 kW/190 PS (180 - 200 hp ) @ 6000 rpm, 255 N·m (26.0 kgf·m) @ 4000 rpm)
RB25DET - twin-cam TURBO (T3 Turbo) (245 to 250 hp and 319 N·m)
RB25DE NEO- NON-TURBO twin-cam 147 kW/200 PS @ 6000 rpm, 255 N·m (26.0 kgf·m) @ 4000 rpm)
RB25DET NEO - twin-cam TURBO (206 kW (280 PS) @ 6400 rpm, 362 N·m (37.0 kgf·m) @ 3200 rpm)
 

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Glasgow GTST
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366 Posts
Upgrades

Soon to finish a heavy amount of overtime by november so I will have cash to throw at the car.

I have FMIC
Boost control valve
induction kit
exedy organic clutch
decat kakimoto exhaust
Itake it the standars ecu has been chipped.

I have a z32 maf and nistune ecu waiting patiently in the cupboard till I get my new mods.

I take it I will be looking at.
Injectors
fpr
uprated fuel pump
turbo
spitfire coilpack


I'm hoping to go for around 400, nothing more as I don't really want to start forging or should I be doing this?

I do not want to ruin my pride and joy by going cheap!

Does anyone know any Skyline specialist tuners in Scotland who can carry out the work for me and then give it the right map, Also what price would this be in the region to achieve. I quite like the branded names as well. Nismo, HKS etc

Great thread to read up on.
 

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Just to say you wont need the FPR unless yours is faulty, the std one will be fine to about 600bhp, coil packs will only need replacing if faulty.
 

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Incredible info, I just wanted to say thanks for this sticky. I don't know how much is still valid after 4 years of compiling, however it certainly mentions parts that I should focus on when aiming for a HP goal.
 

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Brilliant thread. Thanks for this.

This thread is a few years old now. As technologies evolve I'm sure there are new suggested parts available.

I see lots of mention of spitfire plug leads. Are these still the suggested go-to brand?
Regarding mods in general, has anything changed from the initial advice given?

I know although Apexi is brilliant it is old tech now (have it in my MR2). What is the suggested aftermarket management system? Something affordable.
 

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Any suggestions on an intake manifold for my rb25? I was thinking of a $300 one I saw on eBay but I'm not too sure. Most I'll spend is $500 if I have to

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J727AZ using Tapatalk
 

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Any suggestions on an intake manifold for my rb25? I was thinking of a $300 one I saw on eBay but I'm not too sure. Most I'll spend is $500 if I have to

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J727AZ using Tapatalk
Stick with the standard one and keep your $300
 

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All the replica freddy intake plenums are a bad fit and will need gasket matching at a minimum to get the ports to line up properly with the head, everything in the sub $500 market is as bad as each other, so if you really have to fit one id be inclined to get a cheap one and spend the money you've saved on a good dremel and some sanding rolls to let you modify the plenum to fit

Hearing good reports about these ones if your budget stretches to it:
https://www.otakugarage.com.au/product/otaku-garage-intake-manifold-forward-facing-plenum-rb25det-series-1-2-neo/
 

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All the replica freddy intake plenums are a bad fit and will need gasket matching at a minimum to get the ports to line up properly with the head, everything in the sub $500 market is as bad as each other, so if you really have to fit one id be inclined to get a cheap one and spend the money you've saved on a good dremel and some sanding rolls to let you modify the plenum to fit

Hearing good reports about these ones if your budget stretches to it:
https://www.otakugarage.com.au/product/otaku-garage-intake-manifold-forward-facing-plenum-rb25det-series-1-2-neo/
Thanks! I'll check it out

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J727AZ using Tapatalk
 

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makes senso to me , but its the boost level that dictates when the headgasket goes pop, standard gasket holds up to 1.2 bar regardless if you're running a standard tubby or a T88
1.2 bar is about 17psi boost. Regardless of turbo. Composite head gasket starts to crap out around 13 psi. Stock AFM hits rich retard at 11psi.
 
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