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Punch me.
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9,398 Posts
Discussion Starter #81 (Edited)
yea, i cant resize at work for some reason lol, IE keeps crashing!





1/2 way through fitting rings to the pistons, no cutting/gapping involved with these rings (unlike the JE's we fitted on last rebuild) pregapped for bore like stock piston rings in stock bore





pistons fitted

 

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Punch me.
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9,398 Posts
Discussion Starter #82 (Edited)
starting to look like an engine, head fitted (shhh no valves)











oil pump and sump fitted, its starting to get heavier...







exhaust side fitted, new turbos are so cool







metal inlet gaskets used this time round










birdseye







many thanks to brian neve who powder coated the rockers and plenium












 

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Always Seeking Perfection
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1,616 Posts
Looking good David, what conrods are you using as ill be doing the same rebuild on mine by myself in march or so

Whats with the banned bit under your name?
 

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Punch me.
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9,398 Posts
Discussion Starter #84
hi mate

stock conrods, said to be good for 600bhp and i am staying under that..

did notice some cheap stel ones on ebay at £300 for the set though...very tempting

regards, brian
 

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The Zig
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3 Posts
David -

Your old pistons look seriously fouled (as in oil leaking down around the rings before they were properly seated [sat?]). Is this from the accident or might it be related to the different engine break-in technique (high throttle) you mentioned earlier in this thread?

I ask only out of ignorance and concern as I'm going to have my engine rebuilt soon and the rebuilders are split 50-50 on the technique and the arguments for the WOT break-in make sense to me.

Did you notice any problems or differences with this method of break-in as compared to the more traditional slow method?
 

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Registered
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1 Posts
A last post for this amazing thread, Lady Gaga? We're all anxiously waiting news.
Thanks a lot for sharing anyway.
 

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Punch me.
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9,398 Posts
Discussion Starter #90 (Edited)
lol, you registered just to ask me that!

yes ill update this in the next few days but to give you the short and curlys i ended up selling the engine and breaking the car for parts....just as i was about to fit the engine (time booked off work etc) i decided to just go and buy something a bit more "normal" as some of my circumstances changed and i needed a reliable car for work...i bought a 5.0 V8 mercs..

the technical part of this thread ends here :(
 

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Seasoned Member
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1,026 Posts
Just read from start to finish. What a fantastic thread, very informative! Thanks for putting all your hard work up for us all to see! Bad luck with the ceramic letting go and then having to sell after rebuilding, but fantastic work non the less!
 

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4 Posts
Great thread. Just wondering, When cleaning up the head gasket matting surfaces on the head and block, you used wet and dry but wouldnt you get a better seal if you was to skim the surfaces by around "5 thou"?.

still learning so

:feedback:

Thanks
 

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Punch me.
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9,398 Posts
Discussion Starter #99
Great thread. Just wondering, When cleaning up the head gasket matting surfaces on the head and block, you used wet and dry but wouldnt you get a better seal if you was to skim the surfaces by around "5 thou"?.

still learning so

:feedback:

Thanks
you would get a better finish, i cant argue against that

a lot of people simply skim 5 thou as routine when removing a head but i dont like to do it unless there is a reason to (IE the head is warped out of tolorance), my method is to check it with a straight edge and feeler guages after clean down

some believe that this is risking a costly failure, more so maybe with my prefrence towards stock head gaskets

the alternative is to skim and change compression or fit a fick gasket and affect squish

pros/cons/time/cost
 
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