Skyline Owners Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
559 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The Skyline has developed a new, strange behaviour lately: if the engine is properly warmed up (oil 80 deg) and stopped, if restarted within say 10 mins she will struggle to hold revs at idle and sometimes cuts out. Sitting stationary with slight throttle for a minute or two seems to cure it, but If I try to pull away too soon she stalls. If the engine is given time to cool just a bit more before starting, say 30 mins whilst shopping then she's fine. I had the idle control valve taken out for an inspection & clean just before these symptoms started, but I am pretty sure I reset it correctly. From a cold start there are no issues whatsoever, and once warm the idle speed is about 950 rpm (according to ECU Talk display).

There has been speculation that this behaviour might be down to 'heat soak' on the standard fuel rail causing fuel to evaporate and interrupt delivery (???). I do have 850cc injectors and a big 450 lph pump on an oem FPR. I may just crank the warm idle up a smidgen and see if this still happens, but does anyone have any other ideas?

Cheers,
James
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,962 Posts
Fuel will only evaporate if exposed to air so that theory is out mate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Sounds like a similar issue i had on my first skyline.
Turned out the coolent temp sensor was faulty.
Caused the ecu to run the wrong map when starting and driving so it over fuelled and fouled the plugs. Stalled once pilling away but only the once, theory was it over fuelled i reckon and conked out. Then the ecu started sorting itself out. But its just a theory. Replaced the sensor due to consult showing its dodgy behaviour when cold to warm. Figures when all over the place.
Benefits of working in a diagnostic garage. Changed the part the same day.

When starting when cold it was fine.

Try disconnecting the temp sensor when its warm and starting the car see if it helps.

Funnily enough, my sensor started playing up a month ago on the new skyline. Difficult starting, idle not going to its low 850 position.
I believe its now developed into my current idle issue, in addition to the previous issue, spluttering when the ecu controls the idle.

To diagnose i simply unplugged the temp sensor, she started up instantly and splutter is gone.
Also, i disconnected the idle control as a second test, idle dropped to normal and splutter gone.


If got a new sensor ordered through work to fit monday, ill let you know if it fixes anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
The sensor on mine is on the top radiator aluminium pipe into the block. Should be the same in a GTR i believe.
On my R34 GTT its a two pin sensor next to a single pin sender (to the dash coolent gauge), i think the sensor part number is the same.


Nissan number for the GTT is:
2263044b20
Its used in many Nissans.
Nissan OEM sensor plug is blue.
Nissan wanted 47+vat trade price for OE.
However, Blueprint do one, 30+vat i believe.
I got one from Andrew Page motor factors this time and last, OE spec but at a fraction of the price of OE or blueprint. And in the previous car it done 30,000miles with no issues.
I paid 6.50+vat :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Stoke-on-Trent
Joined
·
3,110 Posts
Years back I had a similar problem, but it's when I had a GTST, it turned out to be the air flow meter breaking down. It ran like youres for a while and got worse over time. From cold was ok, but as soon as it got warm I had to throttle it, to keep it going every time I came to a stop , maybe worth a try ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
A good way to test if you have the time, go for a drive then head home when she is warm.
Pop the bonnet, turn her off, try starting her as is to hear how she starts as a guide. Turn off

Then, unplug the coolent temp sensor, and fire her up, if she starts instantly with no issue, id say you need a new sensor.

Then, as per Dazman's suggestion.
Turn the car off, keep all sensors plugged in, but unplug the afm (safe mode), if she starts first time and you can rev it ok (wont go past 2500revs), id replace the afm but clean the sensor first then repeat the test to see if its just dirty.


If both the coolent test and afm test prove useless and the problem still persists you have another issue.

Hope this helps.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,962 Posts
A good way to test if you have the time, go for a drive then head home when she is warm.
Pop the bonnet, turn her off, try starting her as is to hear how she starts as a guide. Turn off

Then, unplug the coolent temp sensor, and fire her up, if she starts instantly with no issue, id say you need a new sensor.

Then, as per Dazman's suggestion.
Turn the car off, keep all sensors plugged in, but unplug the afm (safe mode), if she starts first time and you can rev it ok (wont go past 2500revs), id replace the afm but clean the sensor first then repeat the test to see if its just dirty.


If both the coolent test and afm test prove useless and the problem still persists you have another issue.

Hope this helps.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
He has a gtr and unplug one afm means it won't start at all so both need unplugged and then how do u find the bad one? Just replace both maybe?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Oh yeh, for got that.

Replace both lol, easy. Joking.

Maybe do a voltage check across them and see if google or someone on the forum can cross reference the results or plug into consult software to get the readings.

If that not available, you could always open them up and check for dry joints (common afm problem i believe)

Id do the coolent temp test first as its fairly quick test, if that doesn't work. Diagnose to Faulty AFM somehow either via consult or other.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Did you find your issue?

I replaced my temp sensor today, solved my warm start issue and didnt want to stall or over fuel as much but only reduced my spluttering. Still had an issue and missing up high or under load.

Found a cracked sparky plug when investigating which may be the culprit.
(One week old)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Ive just come across this thread. Mines been doing that for ages and ive just been living with it. Thought mine was because of my remap on hot start, but now I might change the temp senser and see if that helps. Also quick question while im here. Is where is the diagnostic port on 33 gtr. Can not seem to find it anywhere, unless someone has moved it.
 

·
Stoke-on-Trent
Joined
·
3,110 Posts
Also quick question while im here. Is where is the diagnostic port on 33 gtr. Can not seem to find it anywhere, unless someone has moved it.
I think its to the right/just below the steering wheel, behind a small removable panel on the dash. Aint got my car here or I would go check for you .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
559 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I think its to the right/just below the steering wheel, behind a small removable panel on the dash. Aint got my car here or I would go check for you .
Yep, just to the left of the interior fuse box will be the large grey CONSULT plug. I had to get the lower dash panel off completely to get at the thing properly. As for my own woes, having an ECU talk display plugged into aforementioned diagnostic port tells me that my ECU water temp sensor is okay (apparently). I may have narrowed the possibilities somewhat as I don't think it does this with the aircon switched off. I have a nasty feeling that the A/C compressor may be on the way out, and so is creating 'drag' on the engine :apuke:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,995 Posts
Please dont bump very old threads as it just confuses people besides if you read the whole thread it has already been answered.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top