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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi
would i be taking a risk running over [email protected] with std internals

or do my piston need to be forged
all other mod are in place just the tubby and the remap is needed.:guiness:
hoping to run 1.2bar of boost is that right for the power i want

cheers lemsip:smoker:
 

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It depends on what you have done now?

Standard turbo = NO
Standard afm = NO
Standard ecu = NO
Standard injectors = NO

ETC.......
 

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Well i think you could but the question would be, would it hold together.
I'm doing a rebuild on mine with forged pistons etc but the turbo i have gone for is 'only' rated to 430 ps. However i plan on doing a few track days etc so it is for piece of mind more than anything, plus if i decide i want more power at a later date ( who doesnt) then the work is already done.
 

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A rebuild will always be the safest option, but cars have been known to run just over 500bhp on standard internals. The only question is how long they'll last ;)
 

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I have a re-built standard tubby with steel internals, been advised 400bhp max @ 18psi.

Reading threads on here suggest its simply not possible to get more than that on a standard turbo, it aint big enough!
 

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Lemsip the safe limit on the std internals is 500bhp so at 450bhp you should be fine, as said though how long it will last is the question?

i've been running 400bhp for nearly 3 years with no probs and recently have got a slightly bigger turbo and tomei pon cams so should be around the 430bhp.

what turbo are you thinking of running as that will decide what bhp you'll make at 1.2bar.

i've got a rebuilt std R34 turbo which has been machined out with 360 thrust etc etc and rated to [email protected](22psi)
 

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standard internals will be fine for 450 horse
and for 1.2 bar aswell
so that wont be the problem, question is if it 'll make that power @ that boost
pick the right turbo and get it all mapped decently
 

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there are guys running over 600 WHEEL HP with stock internals on RB20s and 25s... they will take it as long as the mapping is really good and detonation doesnt occur... i.e. only turn up the boost when using good fuel and outside temps are low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks all for the info
the reason for asking is the car will not be used on a track/1/4mile etc
its going to be a weekend toy.


i'm thinking of buying a secondhand turbo kit. the guy who is selling it is in europe and he's not back till 4 july
all i know is its good for 500bhp but i will get the info on the tubby by the end of the next week
i'm going to put a hks gt2530 on for now to get me by

huge jass
Standard turbo = gt2530 for now then maybe a top mount jobby later
Standard afm = q45
Standard ecu = pfc
Standard injectors = 850cc
all other mods are in place ie exhaust, d cat ,d pipe ,elbow fmic,induction kit
avc-r Boost controller,walbor Uprated fuel pump ,sards FPR,oil cooler.clutch
HG,spitfires coil packs,laser platinum plugs
i know i need to swap plugs over denso jobby :)

sorry to bang on but as much info will help u guys to advices me better
going to weston performances to get it mapped aswell
hope this help a little more
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
been told that the duty% can be turn down without any problems
so how overkill i may need them in a year or so
when i do get the internals sort it and maybe a bigger tubby

the way things are going i cannot see myself stopping i.m addicted LoL
 

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The GT2530 turbo wil not get you 450bhp. I would change the plugs you have, defo, get some NGK or Greddy ones.
 

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there are guys running over 600 WHEEL HP with stock internals on RB20s and 25s... they will take it as long as the mapping is really good and detonation doesnt occur... i.e. only turn up the boost when using good fuel and outside temps are low.
If its mapped well shouldnt matter what air temps are doing! :)
 

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If its mapped well shouldnt matter what air temps are doing! :)
It will unless you've got an air temp compensator which the GTR has but the GTS-T doesnt.

As air temp goes up more fuel is needed to cool the cylinders more.
 

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What? So your telling me the GTS boys turn the boost down in the summer even when the mapping is spot on?
 

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No, but a GTR can be mapped closer to DET yet stay safer. unless you fit a Air Temp compensator.
 

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Yes and no, if its mapped well your right it shouldnt really matter, but like Hi'5 said if you run crap fuel and your car is mapped on a cold day and we get some mad real hot weather and your timing is to far advanced your get DET.

But with a GTR or air temp sensor fitted it wont matter, mappers have to guess how much hotter air will effect the engine and bring on DET.

like simon norris when he mapped mine made me thrash the hell out of it to create as much heat as poss and then still leave me 3 degrees away from DET.

Thats why i can be just safer to run a bit lower boost on hot air temp days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i'v just paid for this Greddy TD06S-20G 12cm complete turbo kit and sum pro cams so this is the tubby i will be useing

i will be going for a rebuild but not this year maybe next winter (no money left lol)
is this ok to run or will it kick like a mule and blow my engine to bits lol
 

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suppose you have some sort of boost control so it wont blow your lump apart unless your putting up a higher boost level than your engine can take
if your still up for 1.2 bar a standard engine should hold it
if you get more greedy you'll need a metal headgasket
 
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