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Discussion Starter #1
was meant to be delivered today but one of the parts turned up late.

So, gonna badger one of my mates into giving me a lift to newbury, then I can drive my new baby back home. Think I might give the M25 a miss on the way back.

I'll post some photo's once I get her home.

Thanks for all the advice you've all given me over the last few weeks.
 

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another VBjapan job then :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Funny you should say that! Got the car eventually but not everything has been done, and have a few problems I'll be phoning them about very shortly.

Anyhow, there some pics. Better ones to follow when I've cleaned the car and the weather's not so grim.





 

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That's a wing and an half on her mate. It's not funny I should say that at all, just a wealth of knowledge gained from personal and others experience over a rew years mate :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Buster, Could you do me a favour mate. Can you email me with some more details of the problems you've heard of. I've got several problems with the car, some of which they were meant to have fixed before I picked it up, some others I've noticed since and I'm trying to decide whether I can trust them to fix it or should just cut my losses and fight for my money back.

Address is [email protected] name is gary

Cheers
 

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great looking gts !!

what problems u got may be able to help

lee
 

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Nice looking car, mine came from them too a few years ago. What probs do you have with the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Quite a few minor bits and pieces, some of which were meant to be done before I picked the car up, some I was told had already been done but hadn't.

Also got and a hicas warning light that keeps coming on after 3 or 4 miles on dual carriageway driving - doesn't happen on twistier roads though.

Also not sure it's running right - mid range is lovely but top-end is nothing special - I'm not sure the boost is getting as high as it should, it only goes to about 0.3 bar according to the dash gauge. Get's there by about 3,000 rpm and doesn't get any higher. Shouldn't the boost go up a bit more around 5,000 rpm.

Cheers
 

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Has it got an after market steering wheel?
If it has and the boss adaptor is not made for HICAS then the HICAS computer gets confused on long straights as it cant get an imput from the steering wheel and it thinks something is wrong.
Did you get my E mail
 

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right try the diagnostics...

1. Switch ingition off, put car into neutral.

2. Start engine

3. Very quickly (within a couple of seconds), turn the steering wheel left and right about 20 degrees from centre five times, and then pump the brakes five times, then press the brake pedal once more - this will enter diagnostic mode.

4. Drive forwards or backwards about 5 metres at a speed less than 5mph, this will enter full diagnostic mode.

5. The HICAS light in the instrument cluster will be flashing quickly (for normal) or will flash a code indicating any problems.
The long flashes are for the first digit
Short flashes are for the second digit.
This will give you the number you need.

Diagnostics will return to normal after five minutes, or any speed over 5mph, or ingnition is turned off.
 

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Fault Codes HICAS 1989-1993
1 HICAS solenoid right hand
2 HICAS solenoid left hand
3 Cut off valve
4 Power steering solinoid
5 Vehicle speed sensor
6 Steering angle sensor
7 Neutral position sensor
8 (Auto) Parking brake sensor, (Manual) Clutch sensor
9 (Auto) Inhibitor switch, (Manual) Neutral sensor

Fault Codes HICAS 1994-1999
11 HICAS control unit
12 HICAS motor power supply not present
13 HICAS motor output not present
21 Vehicle speed sensor not present
22 Steering angle sensor not present
23 Steering angle sensor neutral or not present
24 Rear main sensor input not present
25 Rear sub sensor input not present
31 Parking brake sensor input not present
32 (Auto) Inhibititor switch input not present(Manual) Neutral switch input not present
32 Engine speed signal not present
 

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has it still got standard boost solenoid connected ?? it should go to about .4 then at 5000 go to .7, top end should be good for about 155-160 ish

use hicas self diagnostic codes, mine had sticking rear hicas motor (like windscrene wiper motor if u look underneath just stripped it down and works perfectly

lee
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Buster - didn't get yer e-mail. Could you resend it. I just checked e-mail address earlier in this thread and it's ok.

RoboPope - thanks for the info - I'll try that tomorrow and see what it comes up with. It does have an aftermarket steering wheel so could be the boss. When hicas detects that fault will it cause any problems?

Boost solenoid is standard as far as I can see. Posted a picture of it in tuning forum headed 'What are these then'. Two of the hoses to it and quite perished to I'll try changing those just in case. Is it the solenoid that decides when to change boost, or is it something else?

Cheers all
 

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Grebo, likely as not the steering wheel will be the cause but with the right boss the issue will be resolved, as far as i know its not dangerous just an inconvenience

As far as i remember mine never used to hit a higher boost till much further up the rev range but that was some time ago

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Mine doesn't hit higher boost at all, so top end of rev range is ok but not as good as it should be.

It has a dump valve on there that I'm not sure about - I might try removing that and reconnect the recirculating one and see if it makes any difference.
 

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try reconnecting the standard dump valve as mine didnt hit higher boost with it disconnected

lee
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Lee - tried that by taking the pipe from the plenum off of the blitz dump valve and connecting it to the old one and then putting the blanking pipe onto the blitz one. It seems to boost slightly higher now but the blitz dump valve seems to still dump though not as much as before.

What do I need to do to remove it completely - do I just unbolt it and get a blanking plate to replace it ?
 
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