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Member No 2.
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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone recommend any fairly simple mods to a R32 GTS-t after a induction kit and freeflow exhaust to make the car a little bit faster and more responsive. Any advice welcome.


Paul. :)
 

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Old Member
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814 Posts
A cost free tweek is to disconnect the battery, pump the brake pedal a few times to drain any power in the circuits, re-connect the battery and the ECU is re-set to factory settings.
This will get it to tune in to your driving style, also get it used to Optimax, I hope you are using it ?
 

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Member No 2.
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666 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
GTS-T

Pete,
Thanks for that, will give it a try. I usually use Optimax but sometimes use BP superunleaded. plus the use of octane boost every other fillup.

Paul.
 

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Member No 2.
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666 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
GTS-T

Cheers Stew, knew you would know and not let me down. What's this I have heard about your ECU!. How did that happen?. might know where you can get one if interested.

Paul.
 

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Paul,

Had the factory map chip removed from the ECU and a socket fitted to let me fit my custom EPROM.... And the car ain't working as a result. Either a dodgy chip, or the ECU is goosed. Trouble is, one of the pins departed from the original chip, so until I can borrow one I won't know whats up.

I went for an A'Pexi power cone induction, HKS HIPER system (with Decat) all the way (almost went for a TRUST system from SVS though), and a Blitz super sound BOV to start with.
After that, A'Pexi S-AFC to trim the fuel was a good widget... Eliminated the irritating stalling when the dump valve releases and the flat spot where it was overfuelling at about 5000rpm.


Set of iridiums was a good buy as well. Regap to .8mm if you up the boost. There is a theory that the RB20DET has a steel headgasket as standard, but I don't feel the urge to prove it.

Strut braces to stiffen her up a bit... SPeak to Tim at SVS for cusco ones or call Andy at Dixons performance centre in Dunblane for a custom fit DP MOtorsport one. (can't recall the number off the top of my head).

An Oil catch tank (Gary at GT-ART does custom ones with a built in washer bottle too - don't know if they fit GTS's tho) is something I couldn't recommend enough after having seen the crud that came out of it, and the Moval kit (again from Trust - SVS) is very handy for oil changes.

The Boost controller I use is a Profec 'a', its a good bit of kit but I know they can be tricky to set up. I never had a problem with mine though. Much better boost response, faster spool up too. Bit of a bugger to fit tho, and when you consider that you can't up the boost much on a stock turbo, it's possibly an unneccessary expense in the early stages.

Thinking of doing an oil cooler kit like gtst_lad has done soon, it also seems a good idea.

I'd recommend changing the gearbox and diff oils too if you're gonna be tinkering with her, stay on the safe and lubricated side!

Thinking of a brake upgrade soon, at the moment though I am just using EBC Red Stuff pads (from www.3gbrakes.com), which are great once you warm them up.

Few other bits and bobs are worth doing... Like lowering springs, and some decent torsion/anti-roll bars to tighten her up. Whiteline are supposedly very good, and there's a good selection on Takakaira again.

Hope this gives a wee bit of help...... Its late and I'm tired so its probably nonsense, and I know I've missed a lot.

In terms of faster..... S-AFC will help, but upping the boost is gonna help more. Might be worth looking at an emanage or even just an S-AFC, and getting someone to set it up on a dyno to get a bit more oomph.

Build a cold air partition around your induction kit. I've got a pipe coming soon to extend the turbo inlet hose and relocate the filter nearer the headlamp in the wing recess nearer the original inlet, and a few hours work should have a nice heatshield in place.

I also got some thermal wrap for the exhaust pipe (from mocal) which allegedly keeps the heat in the pipe more (hotter gases flow faster) which gives a bit more oomph. For a few quid its an ok cheap and easy small gain. Need some decent paste to apply it, and it can be messy if you're not quick.

Falling asleep at the keyboard..........

Probably a very vague answer, I'll review it tomorrow when I've not drunk all that wine {hic}
 

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Member No 2.
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Discussion Starter #7
GTS-T

thanks Stew, will bear all this in mind. Hope you get your sorted out quickly.

Paul.
 
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Ive heard about this batt disconnect before & have thought about doing it at the pod while in the queue. I have questions

1. When its re-connected is the idea to get in & fooking leather it straight off the drive or pootle around like grandad for a bit 1st?

2. If it does work how much difference will it make? Is it that noticeable?

3. How long do the effects last? Surely it`ll revert back to how it should be?
 

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milk monitor
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Jock Alert , ive just started to do some stuff to my r34 gtt,
i fitted a cat back gt spec apex'i exhaust first, which made a real difference to the smoothness of the power, but after fitting
the induction kit, (apex'i power) the power feels quite steppy now. it picks up a bit slower then lurches and then settles and seems to pick up again later in the turbo range, is this the "flat spot where it was overfuelling at about 5000rpm." you talk about and would an A'Pexi S-AFC help?
thanks in advance mate.
fourtoes
:)
 

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M's Factory
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5,240 Posts
Reseting your ECU forces it to learn ( ie retart and advance your timing ) until it discovers detonation. Until it has done this it doesnt necessarily mean your car willbe faster in the first instance as it is learning.

If it goes too far, it will retard instantly.

It does work if you have used a different type of fuel type and have changed a mod as your a/f ratio might be slightly different and flow is easier, it can then re-adjust to those new settings.

It is worth resetting your ECU every now and again, and when you potentially do a mod. It costs you nothing to do and its a two minute job.

It might take a while for your ECU to learn how you drive again. Go out and give it a spanking to learn how you want your car to drive for you.

The effects depend on how you drive the car. As for how long it lasts when you reset it reverts back to a STD map. It then learns your driving and to the mods you have done and also the fuel you use. Change any of the items above and you will find it will increase to its new happy level before detonation, hence a faster car.
 

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Fourtoes...

The A'pexi cones are great bits of kit, I love 'em...

I noticed something similar when I fitted mine, the car was more harsh to drive, (as I guess it would be when its breathing that much more freely) and as you say, it can be a bit more brutal (in GTS-T terms).

Think its cause when you put the foot down now, the air flows in much more freely, so the engine response is higher, so as a result it requires a certain change in driving style to be as smooth as before. However, I found that with the foot on the floor on boost, at a certain rev band (4500 - 5000) the car was losing some power, then picking up again nearer the top end. I played about and discovered that by releasing the throttle a little at this rev band I had a continuous application of power all the way.

The S-AFC allows you to adjust the signal from the AFM to the ECU, so you can 'fool' it kinda, to put more or less fuel in at certain rpm points. It can, however, if used incorrectly, assist in destroying an engine as you can adjust +/- 50%, so be careful or get someone else to do it who will be responsible if they blow it up thru running lean.

If it 'lurches', ie power surges on and then falls off as the revs increase, then picks up again, it could be various things, I wouldn't want to claim to know enough to diagnose that over the forum, so it may put your mind at ease to go see a tuner somewhere and get them to drive it and see. Off the top of my head I would suggest checking the AFM is plugged in firmly, as I had a problem with mine months ago, and lurching/surgin was the symptom.

If its just a bit less refined, its probably just as a result of improved airflow.

Hope this helps mate,

and someone PLEASE correct me if I'm talking sh**e.
 

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It is possible that with the free breathing mods comes the chance of "over boosting" and if this is detected the fuel cut will operate to protect the engine, giving a sympton similar to as you describe
 

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Is the ECU reset possible without disconnecting the battery? I get my car soon and the alarm on it has a it's own battery backup and will probably go mental if I disconnect the battery.
 

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Any fuel management

device will help set the fuel flow correctly IF SET UP BY SOMEONE WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING!

As buster says, could be boost cut. Mine was certainly solved by adjusting the fuelling, which may not be the case for everyone.

Grebo.... I have a CAT 1 toad system with battery backup and its fine with disconnecting the battery. Most alarm/immobilisers are smart enough to know the difference between disconnecting the battery and stealing the car. However, I know some cliffords can be temperamental, but we all know they are cr*p anyway :D ;)

DOn't know if there's another way of resetting. Not even sure if I believe this way works, but hey...... Recent events with the car have proved I don't knows as much as I think sometimes.

Or rather, I don't know when to leave things alone.
 

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Aha, Cat 1 Toad is what I'm getting as well. My bad experience from battery disconnection has been with bike alarms, maybe car ones don't mind so much.

Found a way of resetting the ECU on the SDU faq. I'll try disconnecting the battery first though.
 

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Have seen one

on there which involves shorting two points on the fusebox, but after a close inspection of the thread it was not applicable to my R32, think it does apply to the R33 though, so let us know.

Having been off the road for a few days, and just been out hooliganising the local B roads, I am now converted to believing the ECU reset thing does work. Jesus I forgot how quick this thing goes!

Wheee............... No brakes.......... Ooops!

PS Is it a C5T2? Good system.
 

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Jock - what was wrong in the end - was it just a duff chip ?

System I'm getting is an AI606 - cat 1 alarm and 2 immobilisers

Skyline with no brakes - scarey, very scarey

Get a parachute on the back - that'll scare off the boy racers !
 
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