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Discussion Starter #1
Hi :)

I'm new here, looking for some high powered Skyline Information, especially the GT-R33 model as that's pretty affordable and, from what I hear, could be converted to LHD.

More specifically, I wanted to know what sort of driver aids / traction control / differentials etc are on that car (stabilising system, ABS, controllable center diff, that sort of stuff) and if they can be switched off to have some sideways fun (no RWD as that's too inefficient for my liking). Are there versions of the R33 with and versions without these systems?

And what are the limitations of the engine when going up the power path? I understand the basic things like exhaust, air filter, ECU and turbos need changing, but when should I change the injectors, the cams, the conrods and pistons, is a stroker worth it, etc..

There seems to be this infamous HKS gearbox talk. What's that all about? How much can the standard gearbox take? I hear this box is extremely expensive? What type is it?

Shall I buy a 600 bhp R33 from an importer or an internet auction in Japan? Or would there be considerable risks such as turbo or engine failure involved and I had better buy a standard one and give Sumopower lots of money?

What about the clutch? Is twin plate any good (I heard the twin plate on Andy's car broke at TOTB? Why is that? Wrong install or too weak?) or do I need a triple plate or paddle or what?

Sorry for the long crap newbie post

I appreciate your help :)
 

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M's Factory
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GT Gearbos is good for 600-700 BHP but will not last long at that.

Engine ( Bottom end ) is good for 450 before Bearings need to be changed to Uprated ones, at this point a bottom end rebuild is probably best.

Andy's Clutch, thats just down to motorsport and the way it goes an item based upon spinning until it grips and gets warm on such a hot day was just unfortunate at the end of the day.

Remember whatever your after the weakest link is always the thing you need to look out for.

RE : Japan purchase is a good idea if you can give a lot of money to someone you dont know and wait to get a car you have never seen in the flesh.

Additionally and my personal opinion is it is a good buy but potentially you do not know how long the engine has been build or the life of the car, what has gone wrong or what has not been replaced.

A good run down is in order upon first inspection when you get a car of this type from Japan.

All in all everything is a gamble, this is not specifically Skylines but any vehicle you wish to push the power curve upwards !

Good luck hope this helps.

Ask anything makes for interesting reading im sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks :)

Since you request I flood you with questions ;), what's the word on injectors, cams, stroker kits? What about the driver aids electronics?

Also, it seems quite a few cars put out a lot of power (over 600 bhp) without any serious internal upgrades. Is there a specific reason (such as cost or hassle) for that?

People in the Evo world seem much more willing to upgrade internals? :confused:
 

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Cams can be changed at any point although its one of the things you would do early on it a high power conversion. The standard injectors and fuel pump should see ok upto 450-500 Bhp mark.

Internals can be upgraded for added reliability. Some people only change the Pistons and keep the standard rods with uprated bots and others fit steel rods. It all comes down to money and how hard you plan to push your engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmmm... I see, thanks Richard :)

I guess I like it powerful but reliable. I'm the type of person that would fit internals from 500 - 550 bhp. I'd rather have it reliable and not using the full potential than boosting hard and risking to blow it up. I have seen to many friends and people on internet fora blow up their engine because a con rod broke, an injector failed, the ECU wasnt programmed right and all sorts of reasons.

Is the HKS box a dog box?
 

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M's Factory
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Your reference to the EVO world, if I am not mistaken a friend of mine had an EVO 6, he got it to about 380, which was about 280 ATW figure and thats the furthest he could go without doing the internals. If you want / need more power then you need to change the internals.

If you want 500- 550 BHP then what I suggest is you build your engine for around 700BHP and then you havew scope not to push it, but reliability. Rods/Pistons/Bearings/Sheels/ I believe ths STD crank is meant to be good for 700bhp, but will need balancing etc for the above parts.

HKS is a sequential box.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sarky_FCUK said:
Your reference to the EVO world, if I am not mistaken a friend of mine had an EVO 6, he got it to about 380, which was about 280 ATW figure and thats the furthest he could go without doing the internals. If you want / need more power then you need to change the internals.

If you want 500- 550 BHP then what I suggest is you build your engine for around 700BHP and then you havew scope not to push it, but reliability.
That's correct, although we generally prefer to keep it to 360 / 1.6 bar. 380 is only achievable with cams and high boost. Some got bore wash, too. You need to run high fuel pressure (4.5 to 6 bar!), high duty injector cycles (over 88%), etc. You're running pretty much on the limit everywhere. That's why I'd really like to do as you say, build the engine for 700 bhp and keep it to 550 - 600 bhp, a 15 to 20% margin.


Sarky_FCUK said:
Rods/Pistons/Bearings/Sheels/ I believe ths STD crank is meant to be good for 700bhp, but will need balancing etc for the above parts.
I see. Well, I'd rather change the crankshaft as well, rather than having it break or eat a bearing.

Ideally, I'd get a car with all that done by a good tuner and just drive it ;) :D But that sounds too easy...


Sarky_FCUK said:
HKS is a sequential box.
Ohh... THAT'S WHY it's so expensive! Straight cut gears?

Ever tried one one been in a car with one?
 

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I agree with the EVO thing, apparently it was with the rod bolts changed and it was a mod done by a dealer. Anyhow 3 weeks later, bang.... oops dead car.

Uprated Crankshaft will set you back over a grand on its own. without any work done to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah but fixing a broken crank and all the consequences would be much more...

Tell me about the box, please :)
 

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I believe it is straight cut, yes I have been in a car with it.

NO clutch required on the way up only on the way down. :) nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sarky_FCUK said:
I believe it is straight cut, yes I have been in a car with it.
Did it make that "wheeeeee" noise like a rally car or like a car in reverse?


Sarky_FCUK said:
NO clutch required on the way up only on the way down. :) nice.
Awesome :D :cool: :bounce:
 

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Yes straight cut boxes are always louder than normal boxes as they have no real synchro as such.
 

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The HKS sequential I used needed the clutch up and down gear changes...but because you only pushed up/down on the gear change made it loads quicker....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Is that box LOUD like a dog box in a rally car or it it suitable for motorway use?
 

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Tigger,

Can you tell me roughly how much the HKS sequential box cost you - I'd like a sequential box as well, but don't really have much idea of whether I'd need a loan or a mortgage for it.
 

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You might get change for 8k UKP if your lucky. Depends on where you go to get it.
 
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