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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys

picked up my 33 last night (love it love it love it love it)
and noticed teh car isnt too loud off boost! which means im tempted at throwing some audio in.

I have eyt to look around to see where i can throw some subs (pref slim line and INTO the cabin not boot like i had on my merc)

anywho, onto the point of this thread

has anyone sound deadended their 33 on here and if so to what extent and was it worth it (dynamat, foam etc etc)

also if its not too much to ask, if anyones around hampshire way and has this done, is there any chance you can take us for a spin to see the difference? as to be honest, i did this on my merc and although all rattles/vibrations from sub stopped, road noise was cut down a little, the exhaust was still way to loud for my liking

Thanks
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's going to increase weight i think your more likely want to de crease weight???
thats true, but atm its kicking out more than enough BHP for me to be happy with, its not a drag car, nor a drifter and will be used daily (as a car should be :p) so im more than willing to sacrifice a few ponies to carry a solid and quite(r) car
 

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hippy
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yes its well worth doing if you are into audio,the rear seat area and the boot are worst,i estimate ive got £200 worth of dynamatt and about £50 of edead just in the back,midbass in the doors and general detail is much improved with the outer door skins done,in short theres not much oe stuff and lots of large panels to resonate
its not all about adding weight though,road noise is more effectively cancelled out with closed cell foams
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks i may well look into this then,

ive never owned a jap motor before, how easy does the interior come out without snapping anything?
also whast behind the rear seats??? petrol tank? or is it possible to port the subs into cabin somehow?
 

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hippy
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interior is easy to take out,well it only took me about three hours to strip out everything apart from the dash and headlining

the parcel shelf is quite a few overlapping sheets of spotwelded bits so that needs a bit of attention,the only bonus is there are lots of holes for pressure to come through so the crappy bootlid latches are the only real problem with the boot,if you put your finger under the corner of the boot by the rear screen you can lift it a good 8 to 10mm,not good!

also when youve got well sealed doors and amped components you need to coat each joint of the electric window mech with some decent grease or it rattles and wears out the pins that hold the mechanism together!

ive had several 140ish db systems in it now so im sure ive found most of the major rattle areas!
 
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