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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
**UPDATED** Throttle Problem...

Alright, ran into my first problem with the new car. Friday, I went out to cruise and hang out. Had a couple races then cruised home. Parked it and let it cool/idle down since i dont have a TT yet. Went outside yesterday and started it, and let it idle to temp and such. Went to pull out of my parking spot and as soon as I gave it any gas, it died. So I restarted and went to pull out, more careful of the gas this time and it still tried to die. It idles just fine, pulls .6 bar vacuum @ idle, I can toy with the throttle and get the rpms to climb but its not driveable. Now today I go out there to fix this issue. Start it, blah blah, just like yesterday. Check all my connectors on my TPS and my MAF and then give it some gas and its running perfect again. Took it for a test drive and no problems in boost or anything. Any ideas on what this could have been? I really don't wanna take this thing out and have it happen again to me :(
 

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You could just have something simple like a dirty connection on your MAF or TPS, until it happens again it will be near on impossible to diagnose, thats even if it comes back again.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
lol, i just dont wanna be out at a meet or something and it do it again. I figured it was a bad connection with the maf or somethin. We'll see if it comes back
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update:

took it out for a test drive today, started just fine...idle was a little jumpy during warm-up...from like 850-13-1400 ish took it out, as soon as it hit boost, no matter what RPM or load, it would bog down and spit black smoke out the exhaust....needless to say, i think i need another MAF....imput gents?
 

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Well i know that whenever mine has had the symptoms you are describing it has been cos something has popped off, in my cases - an IC pipe or the dump valve i bodged on, basically just way to much air getting in. Could be worth double checking all your pipework?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i'm going to re go through all of them, I checked them all on sat when the problem first arose, but why would it drive fine on sun then?? i'm going to change the SP's and mess with the FC to get the maf to read diff and go from there :(
 

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Discussion Starter #9
okay, well today I ran a boost leak test on the motor.. and found 2. a small one on the MBC hose going to the wastegate and a big one going from the intake, before the throttle body to under the intake manifold. fixed both leaks and now its running better, but still not what it was before. I'm going to clean the plugs(brand new BKR6EIX's) and probably get it tuned again here soon like. do you think I should be on the lookout for anything else??
 

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Discussion Starter #10
okay, put a new z32 MAF on it today and boom, there it was. should be back on the road as soon as i can get my hands on one of my own!
 

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Went outside yesterday and started it, and let it idle to temp and such.
Advised not to do that mate.... Your best off driving it to raise temp, just stay off boost till normal oil temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
these type of problems are frequently AFM/MAF related, but fortunately are easily fixed, no need to replace the unit. The solder joints which usually fail are large and easliy resoldered, it's an hours job, for a complete repair guide with pic's see here:

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60654&highlight=afm+repair

Aitch
I pulled the MAF apart and looked at all the connections. They were all still secure and nothing looked bad electrically in there. And why shouldn't I let the car idle to warm up? i really dont like driving on a cold motor...but I guess if thats what it wants
 

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I would still have removed the side cover (held in place with mastic) and resoldered the socket connections, they all go sooner or later. Also think about this, we're not looking for a break here just dry joints, which to most folk are invisible. I've now taken 2 apart and in neither case was anything evident, but resoldering "just in case" cured the problems!

Aitch
 
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