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Discussion Starter #101
So, time on my hands, so time for the car.

Firstly, the carbon bonnet doesn't fit Spec 2 (thanks, friend, whoever you are, for the false advert). I'm pretty sure its for a GTR because the brackets don't line up either. Now for sale on eBay. PM if interested.

So, way back when I built the exhaust manifold, the alignment was slightly out, and this happened. The end of the down pipe hung too low so I had to re-hang the exhaust.



Unfortunately it wasn't a great look and it was rubbing on the bumper (and melting it).



Soooo.... time to make the correction. I didn't want to remove the whole engine manifold, and it would have been a difficult fix anyway, so I decided to create a custom downpipe. I bought a Japspeed one for only £60 and tbh it looks better quality than the Apexi one I already have.









After plenty of messing around, I ended up with this...



It now needs welding but I got a local guy coming around this week to tack it in place and finish it up.

I've bought a carbon fibre surround to cover up the melted bumper which is next on the to-do list.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Welding complete, got the downpipe wrapped and painted with high temperature paint.



I cleaned up the melted bumper with a carbon surround, but stupidly I had to re-hang the exhaust pipe again to account for the slightly lower position of the surround. Fortunately it wasn't a major adjustment, but I should have fitted the surround first, then the welding.



Next job is to change the fuel pump and fit a fuel pressure gauge....
 

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Loving the look of the carbon surround! Makes me want one haha. Half the fun with these cars is finding all the little things that are wrong and making them better. Looking forward to seeing what you do man!
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Loving the look of the carbon surround! Makes me want one haha. Half the fun with these cars is finding all the little things that are wrong and making them better. Looking forward to seeing what you do man!
Thanks! It worked out pretty well. I ordered it from a dodgy Chinese company on eBay. He said it was a special order and it took a few weeks to show up, but it was fairly tidy and after cutting it down it fitted reasonably well. My bumper was melted anyway :)
 

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Discussion Starter #105 (Edited)
Quick howto on changing the fuel filter and installing a pressure take-off for a fuel pressure gauge.

This was a pretty easy job. Few basic tools and parts, as seen. I think it would have been good idea to replace the fuel lines but my original ones seemed fine, even though they're 25 years old! The take-off adapter I got on eBay for about 15 quid (here or search "advancedautomotives") and suits 8mm ID and 1/8 NPT sensor port. I tried to source some oem hose clamps from a breaker but its not that important :)



This is what it looks like before starting. The lower fuel line in the photo, exiting the fuel filter (round silver shiny thing in the top left) is where the take-off adapter needs to go.



I found that removing the fuel line from the fuel rail feed (bottom right in photo) was easiest way to go, rather than just cut the pipe in place. That also involves loosening the hose clamp for the upper fuel line (the return line) so that you can twist the clamp out of the way to access the lower clamp more easily, and get some pliers in for getting the hose off. Even after removing the clamp, the fuel line was on really tightly and I couldn't twist it off, so I ended up cutting a section off. Make sure you have a bottle or container to catch the fuel!

Once the line is removed from the hard pipe, it's best to remove the fuel filter bracket from the engine bay wall so you can move the filter and access the clamp on the back of the filter more easily. The hose on mine was also really tight, and I used some pliers to "massage" and twist the pipe lose. I think you can get fancy "hose pliers" that push hoses off hard pipes - would have been useful.



Note that when you undo the hose from the bottom of the fuel filter, all the fuel in the filter pours out. Again, if you can catch this cleanly, you can put it back in the tank :) Once you've removed the fuel filter, you can also remove the other hose more easily, and then cut the hoses to the right length. I didn't measure the exact length, but it was probably about 10cm between the fuel filter and take-off adapter. It's probably easiest to install the pressure sensor now, rather than when the lines are back in place. I used thread lock but PTFE tape is probably better if you ever want to swap the sensor - thread lock can be a ***** to undo on small fittings. Note also that the pressure sensor here is a Defi compatible 3-wire transducer. It is the same as used for oil pressure. There is also a more basic 2-wire version that comes with "Depo" gauges (and standard on many cars), but it is really big and heavy compared to the 3-wire transducer.

With my new fuel filter in place, the assembly looks like this...



Refitting was pretty straightforward. You can fit the fuel filter bracket after you have re-attached all the lines and hose clamps.



So, all in place BUT I HAVE NOT TESTED IT YET! :)

Obviously I will be double and triple checking for fuel leaks before going anywhere, but I don't expect much trouble. I will show you the gauge output in another post.

Finally, I thought I'd take a quick look inside my old fuel filter. I have no idea how long it was on the car. It was probably done about 15 years ago, although the car has not done much mileage in the time. The inside looked horrible but I don't really know what to expect:



So that took about 2 hours, going fairly slowly, and I have not changed the fuel filter before. I want to check what kind of fuel pressures I am currently getting, and how stable it is. I plan on changing the fuel pump quite soon, so I want to know what difference it makes. I think the important thing is to stable fuel pressure. Perhaps I will think about changing the FPR when I upgrade the injectors (which is on the to-do list, but they're stuck in France!).
 

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Discussion Starter #106
With the car in a very driveable state, for the first time in about 7 years, I have been able to make progress with the tuning. In fact, with the virus floating around, the roads are clear which makes life a lot easier (and probably safer).

My current setup is a GT3071r turbo on a stock motor (stock injectors), with 6-Boost manifold, FMIC etc. I run an FCON-V Pro which I have been configuring for some time. Fueling has been my main focus, although in due course I will get some knock-detection set up so I can mess with the ignition timing. AFAIK the ignition map is pretty conservative, so running up to 1 bar of boost seems reasonable. Bear in mind also that I am not (yet) tracking the car, or doing any kind of sustained high RPM / boost driving.

My current injector timing map (units: % duty cycle) looks like this (below). It's based boost pressure and RPM. It's pretty close to the mark, although maximum boost is running a bit lean at the moment, which needs fixing. What you will see is that at the top of the rev / boost range the duty cycle is hitting 100%. This illustrates the need for larger injectors. Obviously most of the map is well below this, so I'm not bothered for now. But I have 555cc injectors ready to go in. I actually wonder whether even bigger injectors would have been preferrable.



A 3-D view of the injector timing map looks like this (this is the latest version which is not actually finished yet. There are a few bumps!):



Ignition map looks like this (below). This is basically a "default" map, which I believe is conservative.



If we look at an example of the log read out from the F-CON, we can see what is happening on high boost. (Yeah, the software is like 20 years old, so the read outs suck lol).



On "high" boost, around 0.95 bar, I now have the fuelling pretty close to where I want, which is an AFR just above 12. It needs a little more fuel on high boost at lower RPMs. However, I am making 1 bar of boost at 3000 RPMs which seems like pretty good spin-up. You can see from the above log that boost is very stable (0.95 bar) and AFRs are also pretty stable, and should improve with a little more tweaking.

I can only guess what kind of power it is making (probably about 350 to 375 at the fly) but once I am happy, I'll be heading to a rolling road for diagnostics. With new injectors, I'll aim for 1.1 bar, which should get very close to 400 bhp.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Tuning is on-going. Thanks to John at 1jzmerc for help with the FCON.

For now, new wheels arrived. No rubber yet, but look pretty sweet. Advan Racing RS3, 18x9 +25, "dark gun metallic and ring". More details here:

 
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