you just need an FMIC and up the boost to 0.8 - 0.85 and you should be seeing 280-300

throw an RSP (Dyno tuner) Stage 1 ECU in and you should get another 10-20 or so.

have a printout for 290 before my FMIC, same mods as you

 

I have read that (and as we all know the internet is always rite lol) when raising boost its better to stick with the wing mount rather than a larger front mount. Logic being.... with a large front mount, the turbo although operating under the same pressure needs to move a much larger air mass thus putting the blades under more strain and it being more likely to S*** itself!

It makes sense in my head.... and that's why i am kind of keen to keep my wing mount. Unless the above is utter B****x. But to be fair the turbo's are weak.

PS, thanks for the good advice mate. Allways nice to hear fact rathar than chat :cheers:

 

The intake temps need to be kept as low as possible to keep the max oxygen by volume. Tbh i didnt notice any differance in turbo lag between having the side mount fitted to the front mount. The ecu accompanied with a new lambda made a big differance on power delivery and ironed out the flat spot at 5k rpm

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

No worries about using a larger front mount, as it will keep charge temps lower =denser air= more power, and because of this the turbo is not having to work any harder, and the increase in lag is negligible.

 

It's not lag or the amount of air im worried about in that respect tbh mate.... its purely turbo reliability with raised boost. If it were a GT28 (same as an S14) I would whack it up to a barr all day long!!

 

The maximum "safe" limit on the standard turbo is 0.85 bar, so as long as you don't exceed that then don't worry. There's also no problem using an fmic so long as you move the actuator feed to the right place, which is as close to the turbo as possible, or even in the compressor housing if you have the tools to do so.

Nissan fit the standard actuator feed after the intercooler on the r33 gtst, I suspect to make the car feel quicker than it is since it ends up boost spiking a little. When you fit a larger intercooler, it's made worse since the intake air has to fill far more room before the actuator can react, in which time the turbo has kept on building pressure. Moving the feed closer to the turbo stops it.

 

The maximum "safe" limit on the standard turbo is 0.85 bar, so as long as you don't exceed that then don't worry. There's also no problem using an fmic so long as you move the actuator feed to the right place, which is as close to the turbo as possible, or even in the compressor housing if you have the tools to do so.

Nissan fit the standard actuator feed after the intercooler on the r33 gtst, I suspect to make the car feel quicker than it is since it ends up boost spiking a little. When you fit a larger intercooler, it's made worse since the intake air has to fill far more room before the actuator can react, in which time the turbo has kept on building pressure. Moving the feed closer to the turbo stops it.

not entirely true, heat kills the turbos, if on a stock ECU, then yes 0.85 is max as a safety measure

however, if you have a remappable ECU, you can take alot of heat out of the engine by having a correct map setup

i run 1 bar on my stock series2 tubby(mapped and all supporting mods) and have done for the last 2 years and not a bother, no shaft play when recently checked either

 

Thanks for the heads up, will referance that if i decide to go FMIC.

Back on track with the thread now please with power figures and examples of power runs and what mod's.... unless there is a power library thread that i have missed?

 

As said, you've already got everything you need to crack 300bhp apart from a better intercooler and a map stacky.

Edit: That's the first time I've read anyone saying the standard turbo is safe to 1 bar, the majority accept it as 0.85. But if you're confident it's okay for you then fair enough, but don't forget the spec 2 turbo is slightly different to the spec 1 one, so maybe that helps too. The r34 turbo can handle a bit higher than 0.85 bar too, you sure you don't have one of those or even a hybrid fitted?

And isn't the standard afm near enough maxed out at 0.85 bar too?

 

Not saying its 100% safe(who knows what state a tubby is in etc), but for me it runs fine, once the heat has been decreased, overfueling causes things to get very hot under the bonnet!

Stock spec2 tubby. I run a HKS Fcon-IS with the optional HKS Map Sensor, allowing me to run the stock spec2 AFM also(used for cruising etc) then when heavy on the boost, the HKS Map sensor takes over

all this while running stock boost solenoid and HKS actuator to control the boost

 

Do you guys know if an aftermarket stage 1 ecu from a Spec 2 skyline will work ok on a Spec 1 skyline?

Is it plug and play?

Cheers

 

Straight swap, my spec 1 is using an off the shelf stage 1 ecu which started life on a spec 2, with no issues.

 

Cool. I read that was the case but the idle may be affercted with the stage 2 ecu on a stage 1. Take it this is bull though? I suppose you could always adjust the TPS anyways.

 

Don't confuse stage with spec fella. Spec 1 and spec 2 are pre-facelift and facelift, stage 1 and stage 2 are different levels of tune. Stage 2 implies more mods and around 400 bhp, where you've fitted a larger afm, injectors, etc. Around 300-330 bhp is regarded as stage 1, with just the mods you have and an intercooler upgrade. So a stage 2 ecu can't run a stage 1 car since the map will be different.

 

That was a typo mate. Im know what the craic is with stage and spec lol!

It was the idle issue between a spec 2 and spec 1 ecu..... when fitting a spec 2 "Stage 1" ecu into a spec 1 skyline.....

 

are you sure spec 1 / spec 2 ECU's are interchangeable, i had always thought they were different? i know the wiring loom is different if im not mistaken?

 

This....

I was the same. I think it's because the coil pack power feeds are different.

Just to re-iteriate, I just want to know if a Spec 2 ECU will work without ANY problems in a Spec 1 R33.
I dont car about the other way around.

Cheers

 

You could use an R34 GTT side mount intercooler for 300hp.

You could also run your turbo at 0.9bar - 1.0bar depending on use, and if you have it mapped of course.

 

You could use an R34 GTT side mount intercooler for 300hp.

Whats the difference between the 33 and 34 wing mount mate?

 

Well mine works fine on my spec 1, and it's a spec 2 ecu. Afaik it's simply that the spec 1 has a separate amplifier for the coilpacks, whereas the spec 2 has one built into each coilpack instead. People also claim you can use spec 2 coilpacks on a spec 1 engine if you swap the coilpack harness too. That said, I don't know if rsp changed anything else in the ecu or not to make it compatible with both, or if they just work straight away.

 

Cool, that sounds good.
Only question that remains in my head then is... Will i need to remove the external amplifier to run the spec 2 ecu?
I dont want to run an amplified signal through and external amp if there is a chance of burning it out.

 

No, if you removed your amp, your spec 1 coilpacks still won't work. If you do want to get rid of it, you'd need spec 2 coilpacks and wiring instead. Which is why I think it's nothing to do with the ecu.

 

All this talking of boost limits on std turbos, just wondering if its a case of no headroom from the std ECU or just down to ceramic turbos, i know there is a steel as well just wondering how far you can push these with the std ECU? or is it also down the MFA resolution?

Thinking back to my Supra on std ceramic turbos, i could happily run 1.2bar without them failing, and they do have MAP, and the std map can get silly rich on WOT.

 

I was under the impression that it was just the blades were not up to more than a bar and that 0.85 was the max "safe" boost you could run without the chance of internal failure.

But as said by someone earlier, heat prob has alot to do with it and a good map will keep that down allowing you to run a higher boost.