[Godzilla]

Evening all
I am about to join you guys as a Skyline owner(very excited......got to keep my buyers head on)and would like some advice.My budget seems to be along the lines of an R32 GTR or much newer R33 Gts-T's.I prefer the GTR's but is the newer model good enough to tip the balance.I appreciate that everyone has their own opinion but any pointers you could give would be great.

As a side note I have spoken to Stuart @ Seaford Imports and he seems like a top bloke.Whilst I'm new to Skylines I've done the whole Impreza thing and he seemed refreshingly "straight".

As I say if anyone has some experiences that they wouldn't mind telling me I'd be grateful.

 

[Guest]

10-12 K should get you a well sorted R32 GTR. Thats what id go for if i was allowed to spend me money.

 

[RoboPope]

drive both, see which one you like... its a very personal thing at the end of the day.

Paul

 

[WA1]

THey are both great cars depending what stage they are at and how they are set up. Finally it all depends on which you prefer.

I have had both and loved them both for very different reasons.

R33 GTS-T - with Jun body kit, Nismo repeaters, HKS Hiper Damper Max2, HKS Super drager, down pipe, decat, iridium plugs, Apexi filter, HKS SQV, GTR FMIC, modified ECU, GTR Brembo brakes all round and strut bars, 18" Blitz 03 rims - went like a dream absolutely smooth on take off and would kill most things on the road. THe ultimate aim if I hadn't crashed it would have been further upgrade to the FMIC, injectors, fuel pump, EVC5 and a GT2540. Didn't get that far but was still pleased with what I had. The main difference to the R32 was the anount of space inside, by comparison it is a luxury it did look pretty mean. However the size can be a problem - damn thing was longer than the Van at work ( I meant the car) And another downside to the 'length' was that I couldn't lower the car as much as I wanted cos the chin would scrape along any dips or humps

The R32 is faster - stage one only. However it doesn't 'feel' as fast and I found the GTS more reactive and intuitive to drive. If I had carried out all the mods I intended I reckon I would prefer the GTS hands down. But both are a different kettle of fish and the GTR has more accesible power.

 

[gtst lad]

How about
3k on a r32 gts
4k on a good rb26dett, gearbox etc etc
1k on fitting the engine
gain 1k selling the gtst engine
5k on engine, gearbox and lightening work.
slap on some huge sticky rear tyres, wheels and go run 10sec quarter miles all day at the pod....hmmmm i'm such a dreamer..

 

[Godzilla]

Nah,trackdays are more my thing as I have to say that going straight is a bit dull even if you have got 400bhp!!

I have seen a GTR R32 at RK tuning for £10000 but it's having the engine rebuilt at the mo.Does that mean that the car is problems or will a rebuilt lump prove reliable enough.RK do have a good rep and he has assured me that it should be ok but as with all second hand motors,you just cannot tell.
Spec is as follows.Apparently it puts out around 400 bhp @1.1 bar.

1990
100000klms
hks suspension
yoko wheels 255/40/17
hks big intercooler
hks oil cooler
nismo front bumper
hks 2510 turbos+hks s/s elbows
full s/s big bore exhaust + downpipes
550cc injectors
hks blowoff valve
full hard pipe kit
hks 320kph speedo
nismo front bonnet lip
hks boost controller + turbo timer
bride racing seat drivers only
h/d clutch

 

[Guest]

thats 10 k there ,easy

 

[gtst lad]

Yep thats a good price with a rebuild and personaly i've heard and have had nothing but good experiences with rk...just make sure you get a decent guarantee on engine and electrics and you can't go wrong really..

 

[WA1]

Yeah and perhaps look into how old some of that gear is - more to the point the electronic gadgetry might be due a change. But as long as the mechanical parts are all sound then that is not bad at all.

 

[keef]

WA1

U got PM

 

[Godzilla]

Being thick now,why would the electronics need changing?I understand that engine components might break or wear out but I hadn't heard of the same thing with Turbo Timers etc.

Also might I be better off considering a bog standard GTR with no mod's?I do appreciate your help and sorry if these questions keep popping up everytime a newcomer joins the board.

 

[NismoUk]

what ever you do I'd say import it yourself...save loads....I've brought 2 over so far and helped a friend bring 3 over.....If you need help advice or want me to find you 1 ...Pm me.....I'm not a dealer just some1 who knows how.......

 

[tigger]

why dont you speak to Andy at Sumo, he has a few R32 GTR's for sale, he's been importing for a while, and is a top bloke...he is on the forum as Dirk Diggler and has a banner add on here...also, Ron at RK is a good guy and knows his 32's....personally I would say go drive them both and see which one you prefer....I have a 33 GTR and love it to bits, but also had a 32 GTS for a short while and found it great fun!!

 

[WA1]

re: the electronics

turbo timers are fine but I would seriously look at any boost controllers, AFCs and such like that can affect the running of the vehicle. All though you don't get wear and tear in th normal sense (i.e. mechanical stuff) some of the sensors may need replacing, cables may be loose, corroded connections and fried cables.

In the example of the boost controller depending on the model that is currently in there I would probably go for an EVC 4 or 5 (or something equivalent) just because it has such an important role to play in the boost application and for the actual costs involved (£300ish) it is in my mind well worth the outlay especially since the newer tech will be give you much more precise control over certain parameters. Mechanical parts on the other hand tend to cost a bomb to buy and then to replace, to unless there was something much wrong I really wouldn't go touching them.

Gauges also tend to lose accuracy over time or fail all together so that is another consideration.

PS Make damn sure the HICAS light doesn't always come on (unless there is good reason for it) I've noticed a few with this problem and it can be costly to fix. Drive the car a round a few times and swith it on and off a few times. The HICAS light should come on at first then switch off. If it doesn't for prolonged periods you may have a problem on your hands. If it is a GTR it may even be something wrong with the ATESSA - which could be EXPENSIVE to put right. Other than that if you get a decent example it should run like a dream. Excellent Chassis and Brilliant RB block regardless of which model you get.