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NEW TO ALL THINGS NISSAN
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)




I've just got 2 of these Alpine 15" type R subs..

But am confused about how to tell whether they are 2 or 4 ohm ?? How many watts they are..and what the best Alpine-Amp would be to power just the one above ???

Any and all help would be much appreciated :) - Martin.:cheers:
 

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Everybody knows that the bird is the word
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Best way to find out is remove the sub and have a look at the sticker on the back of the magnet.
It'll be 4 ohm... but it might be DVC (so the amp will see 2 ohm)
A seriously grunty mono block would be best to power up a 15
Don't skimp on the wiring either, you'll need a minimum of 4 gauge.

I hope you don't mind terrible sound quality... that's all you get with 15s. They go loud and not much else.
 

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NEW TO ALL THINGS NISSAN
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Discussion Starter #3
MORE INFO PLEASE :)

Best way to find out is remove the sub and have a look at the sticker on the back of the magnet.
It'll be 4 ohm... but it might be DVC (so the amp will see 2 ohm)
A seriously grunty mono block would be best to power up a 15
Don't skimp on the wiring either, you'll need a minimum of 4 gauge.

I hope you don't mind terrible sound quality... that's all you get with 15s. They go loud and not much else.
Hi dude, there is no sticker on the bottom of these ones.. it has a huge magnet and is really heavy.. and it has 2 sets of terminal connection !? DVC ??

I figured a Mono Block would be what to go for...am just not sure how many watts as I dont know how many watts these subs are..??

Can I ask : whats the difference between 2 and 4 ohm ??

I'am all in favor of hi-end leads, what Gauge would you recommend for one of these 15's and a suitable Amp ??

I had a 12 in the boot before but it didn't really impress me, but as soon as I upgraded to a 15" I could feel the bass, and tones alot better..

At a later date I may add a 12" Type R as well, but for now a single 15" will be all I am after.

I just need to know the correct spec of it.. I've had a look on line but another 15" Alpine Type R version comes up with a different style of rubber thing that connects to the cone..

I dunno if the difference is only cosmetic or what ? - Martin.
 

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Hi dude, there is no sticker on the bottom of these ones.. it has a huge magnet and is really heavy.. and it has 2 sets of terminal connection !? DVC ??

I figured a Mono Block would be what to go for...am just not sure how many watts as I dont know how many watts these subs are..??

I just need to know the correct spec of it.. I've had a look on line but another 15" Alpine Type R version comes up with a different style of rubber thing that connects to the cone..
Ahh it is a DVC (Dual Voice Coil), 2 pairs of terminals confirm that!
Yeah it's best to know exactly what you have and buy an amp to suit... I've had similar troubles finding information on what might be an older model of an existing product on google, an image search usually does the trick though - once you see a pic of one that matches, visit the associated website and boom... specs :)



Can I ask : whats the difference between 2 and 4 ohm ??

I'am all in favor of hi-end leads, what Gauge would you recommend for one of these 15's ??
"Ohm" is a measurement of resistance, in really simple terms in car audio - the lower the ohms the louder its going to go.
With a DVC sub, if you really want the most out of it I suggest you find an amp that is 1ohm stable. No where near as common as 4ohm and 2ohm stable amps so check the specs!
There are definitely right and wrong ways to wire up a DVC sub, the ways can also vary depending on the amp that's running them so make sure you do plenty of homework before you dive in :)
The wiring you use will depend on what the amp requires....

I had a 12 in the boot before but it didn't really impress me, but as soon as I upgraded to a 15" I could feel the bass, and tones alot better..
Without being rude, you simply had the wrong set up. What exactly was wrong I obviously can't say (wrong box, wrong/cheap amp, poor acoustics, wrong/cheap sub etc).
For eg - the set up I had in my old R33 was simple but very effective. Near top end Pioneer head unit (a quality head unit does make a big difference to the final sound that you hear), Infinity Kappa speakers on all 4 corners, Sony DVC 12" with custom made box (used thick MDF) powered by a Rockford Fosgate monoblock. In all honesty, I had the gain on about 1/4... any more was too much!! ....and I've fitted many amps/subs to many different cars, with the right set up even a 10" sub can feel like a punch to the body lol - which is why I say something was wrong with your old set up :)
There is something to be said for running quality speakers on all 4 corners... without quality, regardless of what sub.. it's just noise. A sub should complement the speaker system, not overpower it. Unless you've got a ridiculously overkill audio system a 15" is IMO ridiculously overkill for 4 speakers.
 

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NEW TO ALL THINGS NISSAN
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Discussion Starter #5
What I have : What I want etc...

I have an Alpine Head Unit which is connected to i-Pod, ALPINE Type R front door speakers, Alpine Cross-overs, Alpine Tweeters,

But in the back just bog standard R33 speakers..

I want to keep everything ALPINE, so am thinking of getting the Type R 6X9's for the rear shelf and possible some 6" Type R component speakers in there too..

So I'am looking for a 1 Ohm Mono Block somewhere between 750W RMS and 3000W RMS !??

Do you know if Alpine does such a thing ??

as far as the other speaker's go I am going to just use an ALPINE POWER-PACK (mini Amp that boosts in-car speaker output from 60w to 100w) ..

I'll be running the 1X 15" Alpine Type R to begin with but may add a 12" version as well at a later date.

I am also thinking of getting a "Power-Cap" I've heard good things about them but am a bit confused about the 'Fared Ratings?'

^-- .. whats better more or less or is it Watt dependent/Specific ???

I wouldn't mind getting some component/6X9 speakers in the back passenger area...I dunno if thats possible ? ...& whether there'd be enough room ?? - Martin.:cheers:
 

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If you just want it loud then yes fill it full of speakers.

If you want it to sound good then ditch the rears and spend out on front components and good sub.

Run the speakers off a proper amp, not the head unit.

If you Google you should be able to find the full manual for that sub no problem. I used to have the 12 of that and there were plenty of manuals in PDF form online.
 

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I have had some great sounding 15"'s, Sony however are pretty much one of the worst sounding subwoofers money can buy and are considered a bit of a joke on the audio forums, second only to funkypups.

Unless we are talking over 10 years ago when their products were a bit better?
 

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I have had some great sounding 15"'s, Sony however are pretty much one of the worst sounding subwoofers money can buy and are considered a bit of a joke on the audio forums, second only to funkypups.

Unless we are talking over 10 years ago when their products were a bit better?
Trust me, I am not a big Sony fan... they're more about flashing lights and bright colours to attract buyers over actual quality. But the Sony 12" I was running was one of their top end subs... the pentagon DVC with an aluminium cone (prob going back 8ish years). If it wasn't that, it wasn't going to be a Sony... besides, it only cost me cost price because I worked in car audio at the time :D
 

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£4£ an extra battery will be a far better investment.

If you want something that really will help dish out power to the amps I have a D31 class XS power battery for sale at £220, £430 retail a few months ago.
 

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Alternatively you could cut a couple of big holes in the rear of the boot and fit them there, I reckon you could get an extra 5MPH if they are turned up full.:dogpile:


Sorry couldn't resist:spank:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
POWER CAPS WORTH-LESS ???

£4£ an extra battery will be a far better investment.

If you want something that really will help dish out power to the amps I have a D31 class XS power battery for sale at £220, £430 retail a few months ago.
I wont be able to afford a new battery yet...does it matter which type/make/model battery I would use ? could I use any car battery ?

...and How would I wire it into the set-up ??

Are Power-Caps really worthless then ? - Martin
 

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Yep waste of time.

It does matter yes, if you are really doing it on a tight budget make sure both batteries have a resting voltage over 12.5v at least and wire them like you would if you was jump starting a car.
 

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I would disagree about power caps being a waste of time.. Anything under 300RMS, I would say it is not necessary.. But anything over, I would say you should put a capacitor in..
 

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Capacitors hold energy and release it for a fraction of a second, not really helpful to anyone who is not into throwing out 0.5 second burps into a meter eh.

It really is a bit of a can of worms but everyone on both sides of the argument will agree, the money is far better spent on a secondary battery
 

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If you want a good read, search for power capacitors on talkaudio.co.UK and you'll soon see why. As for needing one over 300w RMS - very few competition cars have them, whether sq or spl!

With audio, rather than adding more of everything, try doing each individual thing better. Sound deadening is something that lots of people overlook but doing that well can make the system louder as you are not losing the sound through the car.

Google is your friend, search for all your kit online, find the manuals etc and ensure that you set the kit up properly. If you can, set the sound stage of the speakers properly.

At the end of the day its all subjective, so play with it and see how you like it, you're the one listening to it!

Spend time on setting up what you have well, rather than money on adding to it and you'll have a better sounding system, and one that is more efficient.
 

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Capacitors hold energy and release it for a fraction of a second, not really helpful to anyone who is not into throwing out 0.5 second burps into a meter eh.

It really is a bit of a can of worms but everyone on both sides of the argument will agree, the money is far better spent on a secondary battery
I totally agree. Caps are overrated!
It's like putting.on a band-aid when you've lost your arm.

And that 15" subs sound crap is also a myth.
What most people forget is that you need parts that match up.
It will sound crap if you've it badly installed or that your other speakers can't keep up with it.

Another good rule is 1£ sub and 2£ amp.
 
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