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Backyard Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You may have seen my other thread on my lumpy / high idle, well I took the whole lot apart again and added some loctite copper gasket to every surface and my lumpy idle has gone :) still high idle though but no where near as high, it was 1900 now is it 13-1400.

I have taken some pictures of the way the FMIC is plumbed in, could this be a factor in my high idle problems? Can any one explain why that pipe is open and the other smaller one is the engine bay blocked off? I have reattached the small pipe to the correct nipple circled with no change in idle, but when connected the bov makes a ticking noise when revved not sure if this is normal or not? Please some one explain :) I feel like I am almost there, just need a little help :)


 

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Backyard Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Thanks for helping you lot! ;)

Update.

I am missing the recirculation tube circled red.

The part with the green arrow is open and can be see in the pic which is taken from the front of the car.

The part with the blue arrow is blocked.

Is this causing the high idle, what else could it be causing, why has it been done? Will be taking the BOV's off tomorrow to check for problems, the main question is, is it causing the high idle :) Sorry, lots of questions I know

 

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Backyard Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update: After having a good look in that area I realised the pipe leading to the BOV's was blocked as well, meaning every time I let off the gas the air was forced back through the system and stalling the turbo's :( I know some ppl run like that but I've always been advised against it.

So I've plumbed it all back in how it was supposed to be but leaving the BOV's to vent to atmosphere, problem is one or both of them sound wrong/broken, they are blowing and whistling and making wired metallic noises, so I'll try and borrow some to test, hopefully that will cure all my problems, wierdly I did get a 800rpm idle for about 30secs after plumbing it all back in this way! Looks like I'm getting there slowly :)
 

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bla
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17,374 Posts
Good lad, Hope all goes well.....

:rolleyes: I dunno, these dam cars, eh... :)
 

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Backyard Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well still not fixed :( even with different second hand BOV's, I guess there could be a chance they are faulty as well? Going to look up the test procedure for them. Now the symptoms are that after blipping the throttle the revs then dip to the point of stalling, everything is now as Nissan originaly built it apart from the BOV's venting to atmosphere. I did find some strange metal plates between the BOV's fixing point, can any one shed any light on what is going on here? HELP ME! It's got to be something simple now surely!
 

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Backyard Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
those plates are just to reduce the amount of air released through the bov's.
I guess someone else had problems, or did it because they ( the stock bov's) were being used for vta rather than re-circ.
Stock bov's/the engine do not like vta when I have tried it on gts-t's.
Andy.
Thanks for the reply m8, I thought that as well but alot of guys on gtr.co.uk have that setup working well?

Might just get some piping and check anyway.

Out of interest should the bovs be constantly pulling in air on idle?
 

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hippy
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7,682 Posts
no they shouldnt pull air in,this would give you unmetered air after the afm,it would run like arse
 

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Registered
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yer vacume line is suposed to be the only things sucking air at idle. it is what opens the recirc valve wen u get off teh throttle. im guesssing yer recircs are kapoot
 

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Backyard Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
If that's the case it's extremley bizarre that all 4 GTR one's I have are faulty! Could this really be the case? + I tried a brand new GTST one which did the same thing, not identical though so so can't really prove it with that. They all do exactly the same thing basically, they all open slightly and stay open on idle. What else could cause this as I'm convinced not all 4/5 could have exactly the same fault. what do you guys reckon? I could try a pipe like Nissan intended back in to the system but they still doesn't cure my bovs opening on idle or does it? Confused now :(
 

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Backyard Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update: Using a temp solution to block the bovs I have a decent, not lumpy or hunting or stalling when revs dropping idle of around 1300-1350 according to Datascan, interesting thing is that if I adjust the A/F base to about 80 rather that 100 that it is on then then the revs drop to 950, does this mean anything shed any light on what might be happening?
 
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